After walking the best part of 770km on the Chemin de Saint Jacques from Le Puy en Velay to Saint Jean Pied de Port, you would think a person would have had enough of walking for a while. And I am not ashamed to say that I was a little reluctant to hit the streets of Paris, but not for the obvious reasons.
Yes, my legs and feet were tired. In fact, all of me was tired, but it was more to do with the people. We had walked in the relative quiet of rural France for over 30 days and I just didn’t think I was ready to face the frenetic streets of Paris. I would have liked to have kept hold of a little of the tranquillity I enjoyed walking calmly through each day on the Chemin, but how can you be in Paris and not mix it with the masses?
FOMO (fear of missing out) eventually quashed any desires I had to simply flop on my hotel bed with a book and, camera in hand, we headed out to explore gay Paris.
We purposefully chose to stay in the Montparnasse area as this was where our train arrived from Bayonne (far southern France) and also provided easy access to additional trains to get out to Charles de Gaulle Airport in a couple of days’ time. This location meant that we weren’t right in the heart of Paris and yet everything was within walking distance, and you know how partial I am to a walk.
The original plan was to simply spend some time in the Luxembourg Gardens – again, seeking a little space and peace. This plan soon went out the window as our feet led us towards the Seine River. Here is a little of what we saw on this early Summer’s day.
- These gardens are a similar size and slightly less ornate than their sister gardens – The Tuilleries, but are no less enjoyable or popular. I can only imagine how important this patch of green space is to the residents of the area as apartment living is the norm, with zero backyards.
- Even early on in the day the place was a mecca for dog walkers, joggers and commuters heading to their offices. The amount of people quadrupled on our return leg through the Gardens as everyone enjoyed the sun and their lunch breaks.
- The Gardens feature a series of sculptures of famous French queens and influential women (Go girls!), and a rotunda hosting a lunchtime concert. The performers appeared to be from a music/performing art school and what they lacked in talent, they made up for with enthusiasm. It was enjoyable just watching them enjoying themselves so much. Go them, too!
- A highlight of our wander was the central pond complete with toy sailboats representing a large number of the World’s nations. These wind-powered boats would scoot across the water with their young skippers running excitedly around the edge of the pond, stick in hand, ready to push the sailboats off the pond’s stone edges and in a whole new direction. Crashes and near misses generated squeals of delight from the children and provided even more entertainment for us.
- At the edge of the Gardens is the Senate building, also known as the Luxembourg Palace. The Senate is one of the two chambers that form the French parliament and by the look of all the armed soldiers and police, aimlessly wandering Australian tourists were not welcome.
Popping out the other side of the Gardens, it was time to mix it with the locals and visitors on the busy Parisien streets. I have to say, despite the crowds, I was impressed by the changes I noticed since my last visit to Paris, way back in 2005:
- It was clean! The streets were much cleaner than previously experienced. No litter/rubbish, no dog droppings and very little graffiti. Maybe the recent Paris Olympics had encouraged a big clean up?
- Bicycle lanes were everywhere, encouraging locals to cycle safely to work etc and, no doubt, somewhat reducing the number of vehicles on the street.
- Electric buses and cars predominated, reducing exhaust fumes and noise. What a difference they made.
- It felt safe. While we did see signs cautioning about pickpockets, we did feel safe.
- English seemed to be spoken everywhere. Maybe it was being in a touristy area that created this feeling? Or maybe I noticed it more because of us spending so much time in rural France where spoken English was a little scarcer?
Eventually our meandering took us to…
The River Seine:
- Here were the crowds I was initially worried about. People and tour groups everywhere to the point where it was impossible to walk in a straight line. I guess that is what happens when you turn up in Paris on the first day of Summer!
- The usual book, postcard and art sellers still lined the footpath along the Seine, and they were doing a brisk trade. I was temped by some of the art, but then there is always the challenge of how to get it home? The subject matter didn’t seem quite as relevant too, as our time in France was all about the Camino, not the streets of Paris.
- I also noticed a significant growth in souvenir sellers – not necessarily a good thing as most of their wares were ticky, tacky plastic tat. Each to their own, I guess and everyone has to make a living.
Seeing we were in the neighbourhood, it would have been wrong not to take the further short walk to Notre Dame Cathedral:
- Our Lady is still under repair with large sections of it covered in scaffolding. The restoration work they have completed is quite amazing and I marvel that there are still enough traditional artisans/tradespeople i.e. stonemasons, to complete such large scale and yet intricate repairs.
- We did consider going inside to check out the internal restoration and then spotted about 500 people queuing to do just the same! Nope! We didn’t have the time or inclination to stand around in the sun for that long.
We turned our backs on the Cathedral and the Seine and were quickly swallowed up in the network of criss-crossing streets and avenues. Luckily for us, these streets were home to a large number of boulangeries and patisseries. How could we resist? The only challenge is that we were no longer walking 25km each day. What to do with all those excess calories? 😊
Making our way back to the hotel, I was glad that I had decided to enjoy a short visit in Paris. It just reinforced how much I love France and reconfirmed my desire to return again one day for more exploration and French adventures.
Do you have a place that keeps calling you back?
…and we actually were walking on a Monday, Jo!
#travelinspo #France #Paris #TheRiverSeine #Leftbank #NotreDameCathedral #touristrails #souvenirs #exploreonfoot #TheStreetsofParis #FrenchHistory #touristtraps #urbanwalks #LuxembourgGardens #FrenchPolitics #Frenchculture #TheSenate #labelleFrance #streetscapes #boulangeries #patisseries
Life...one big adventure 
Paris is such a great city… I think it would be great to spend a few weeks to wander everywhere. There are many museums too but this is not what I like the most when I travel. I never visit museums when the weather is good anyway. It could be fascinating to truly see how the Parisians live. It is a big city and somehow I do not like to spend too much time in big city (maybe Paris could be an exception as I would be happy to speak French with my Canadian accent). Who doesn’t like Paris? I am pleased you took time to walk in gardens and go near the Cathedral…. And you will probably go back another time … in France and on another Camino ( maybe the Chemin d’Arles ?). Thanks for sharing your memories.
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Yes, will definitely return to Paris and France one day. I am not sure about walking in France again as Spain is also calling my name! Never say never though. 🙂
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There are so many trails (Camino) in Spain… will be interesting to see what will be your next adventure.
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The Camino Levante looks interesting, but it’s a biggun’! 🙂
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So many choices…we certainly do not have to stick to the most popular but still the less known Camino might have less services…
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It just means a little more planning and preparation and that is always fun! 🙂
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Such beautiful photos! And that raspberry dessert! 😋
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Ah Yes, who can resist the siren call of the French patisseries??? 😉
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So much loveliness although very different from your rural expanses. Thank you for sharing the treasures you encountered!
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Yes, you couldn’t get more of a contrast. All equally fabulous, just very different. Thanks for following along. Mel
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Mel, what a perfect way to relax and soak up more French goodness before heading home. Beautiful images.
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Yes, despite my initial misgivings, it was a nice way to finish the adventure. I think it is about time I packed my bags and headed back again!! 🙂
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Fantastic! I so enjoyed reliving the memories with my early morning cuppa, Mel. You’d have had to tie me up in a sack to stop me getting out on those streets, just for a little while. It’s more than 10 years now (11 next week!) since we spent our Silver Wedding anniversary there, and although we loved it we never have got round to going back. Too many people is a common theme these days, but if they’re not in Paris… well, what’s wrong with them? I so wanted to sail a boat! xx
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I’m glad I brought back some happy memories. We are lucky ducks to have enjoyed the best of Paris. Melx
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Paris is wonderful. A treat!
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Definitely! 🙂
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Interesting response to the big city, post-camino. I wonder what percentage feel as you did and what percentage can’t wait to be in the big city after all that quiet countryside.
I do love Paris but it’s always been dirty. I hope the change to cleanliness is permanent, or at least hangs on until we next get there. I’m a wimp and always say I want to die quickly and painlessly while asleep in bed, but if it can’t be that, I’ll take death by chocolate.
Both Jamaica (six-time visitor) and France (five-time visitor) keep calling me back.
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I think everyone has different reactions when they finish a camino. Some want to party, others want to sit and reflect, and others want to throw their backpack, boots and poles in the closest garbage bin! 🙂 That’s why I love it so much – everyone is different.
I hope that you do get back to France one day and it meets all your expectations including quantities of chocolate! 🙂 And I hope to get to Jamaica one day to see what you are raving about. x
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A great walllk to ease you into the busy city. The garden does look beautiful, I’ve never been to this one. And I would not have waited behind 500 people to get into Notre Dame. But the death by chocolate was the best choice 😊 Maggie
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It’s all swings and roundabouts, isn’t it Maggie? Hoards of tourists, but chocolate to revive me! 😉 First World problems. 🙂
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So true.
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Thanks for the tour. Paris is such a beautiful and fascinating city. And very walkable.
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Definitely. I think it would be best explored on foot and when I return one day, I will sign up for some walking tours so I can walk and learn at the same time. Have a good day. Mel
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A beautiful stroll, Mel, thank you for bringing me back fond memories. But Paris is not calling my name, it is rather Provence🥰
p.s. I remember we had a decent queue to visit Notre Dame too, but it went pretty quickly.
Cheers, xx
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Ah, I haven’t been to Provence and the pictures look amazing! Another destination added to the list! 🙂
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I agree, you cannot be in Paris and relax on your hotel bed (even though it was well-deserved after your very long walk)! It seems like you hit the spot in exploring the beauty of Paris while also having a lot of fun (despite the crowds). Lovely photos … as for your last photo, of course, fruit’s good for you!
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Agreed, it was a nice way to wrap up our time in France…now I just need to find some of that cake in my own town!! 🙂
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Aw what a lovely way to end your trip to France. It’s so lovely when a country leaves its mark on you, and you know you want to return. Paris is such a great city, and who can resist all those cakes and treats!! 🙂
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I really envy you that you can just hop across the ditch whenever the mood takes you. If I lived in the UK, I think I would be over there every weekend! 🙂
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Beautiful photos 🙂 Glad you enjoyed your time in Paris. I’ve had a bit of a love-hate relationship with it over the years, but it’s the one place outside the UK I repeatedly go back to. It’s a fabulous place to wander aimlessly, and there’s always something new to see. That little raspberry tart looks delicious!
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Yes, it seems that there are only two camps of people – the Paris Lovers and the Paris Haters. I guess it is just how it gets under your skin. It calls to me too…or maybe that is the raspberry tart calling my name!? 🙂 Have a good day.
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It’s wonderful to visit my old haunts through your photos and post. It was a wonderful place, then became very crowded and touristy. It seems from your photos that it is getting back to a better normal now.
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Yes, it’s a nice place to be, but maybe we were lucky where we were and the timing. It would pay to plan your visit to avoid the worst of the crowds. 🙂
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Ah Paris…such great memories. It is a very lovely city,
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One of the best…
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Ahhh Paris. Nice post.
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Yes, ‘Ahh Paris’ sums it up well. 🙂
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Nice walk. I always love exploring a city on foot.
I miss these little raspberries tarts.
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I think exploring on foot is the best way to see a place as it is so slow it gives you time to notice things…or find the best patisseries!! 🙂
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