Day: 17
Date: Monday, 5 June 2023.
From: Buiza To: Pajares
Distance (Planned): 23km Actual (Garmin): 24.8km Progress: 466/801km
Start Walking: 0602 End: 150pm Time: 7h 48m
Ascent: 996m Descent: 1,115m
Terrain: Endless steep climbs and steeper descents over rocky and/or muddy paths.
Weather: Clear, but steamy and humid.
Stayed At: Albergue Pergrinos Pajares – €7.
General Comments:
- Well, I got my come-uppance today. I have been cruising along and probably getting a bit cocky, and that ended today!
- If you remember in yesterday’s post, I was thinking that this route would be more mountainous. Today I had mountains coming out my ears. Let’s compare some stats… Yesterday’s ascent = 294m, today’s ascent = 996m. Yesterday’s descent = 144m, today’s descent = 1,115m. Yep, I got me some altitude. Phew!
- The climbs started almost the instant I stepped out the albergue door. It was a climb up through the village and straight up the mountain range behind it. To add an additional level of challenge (and this happened a fair bit today), an enterprising farmer had fenced off the path and it meant a climb OVER a tall gate. Try doing that with a fully-loaded backpack and it does interesting things to your centre of gravity.
- Up, up and more up. Don’t worry, there were plenty of pauses to enjoy the views and to get the heart rate down to a more manageable level.
- Then down, down, and down again in preparation for the next up. I am definitely better/faster going downhill, but by the end of a long day, even my knees where starting to let me know they had had enough.
- Everything was ticking along O.K. until I allowed myself to be confused by the Camino app on my phone. Even though I had been successfully following the arrows all day, the app told me that I had gone astray and missed a turn. So, I believed it, turned around, and climbed back up the hill again to see where I had gone wrong.
- There did seem to be a path heading downhill through the scrub, so down I plunged. Bad idea! By the time I worked out this was not actually a path, I was fully committed and just had to keep going. OMG! Was that ever a bad move. It was virtually bush-bashing through head high scrub. I spotted a barbed wire fence and scrambled up the ridge and threw myself over the fence, only to plunge downhill even steeper. Another fence, over I went. I finally cleared the thick scrub in a farmer’s paddock (my apologies) and climbed one more fence to hit the main road. At least it was level. Today’s key learning: don’t always believe bloody technology!
- As you can imagine, by that stage of the game I had lost my sense of humour and the language was getting a tad colourful, so I found a seat, had a big drink, a snack and regrouped. Onwards and upwards for the last 8km or so.
- Although the scenery remained beautiful, the path gave me even more grief with major earthworks removing a great section of the path and then incredibly steep descents with few arrows and loads of mud. Yep, I ended up sitting in it at one stage. It was only when I got to the albergue that I learned that most other pilgrims actually abandoned the path and walked on the side of the road. Man, I am a slow learner!
- Pilgrim Count: tonight we have 4 Spaniards, 2 Frenchmen, 1 Italian, 1 German and moi.
Top Tips:
- Don’t think about walking this route without walking poles/sticks. They are essential for ups, downs, navigating creeks and mud baths.
- Don’t rely on technology and if you do, be prepared for the consequences.
- And finally, be careful what you wish for!
Buen Camino.
Life...one big adventure 
I’m curious what app you were using? I’ll be walking this same route in September, then continuing on to do the Primitivo and hopefully the Ruta Verde (if it’s in any shape to use, that is!)
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I am also planning to cross over onto the Ruta Verde from Lugo, but I will see how I am feeling when I get closer.
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I’ll be following to see what you decide!
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Ta
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Oh Mel! You are truly a hardcore hiking woman. Glad you found your way to the albergue with your stories to tell. San Salvador- lol … not for me I’d for sure get lost! Even thought I consider myself a mountain goat. 😆 Enjoy your hard earnt chill and a deep sleep.
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Actually the waymarking is really very good. I must have just had a brain snap . I should have pushed on and no doubt, there would have been another yellow arrow not too far away.
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Ooops!
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Yep, bloody big Oops!
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Goodness you are one tough cookie. Glad you made it to the albergue eventually. Hope there was somewhere to get a good meal and a glass of something nice.
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One mad cookie, more like it! Yes, I managed to find a really tasty menu del dia. I enjoyed every mouthful.
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I bet. Nothing like a ‘stroll’ to increase the appetite. 😊
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It is voracious. Eat a horse and chase the rider!🏇🐎🏇
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Weirdly I have three copies of this post appearing in my Reader!
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I think some tired soul pushed the publish button a few times or slow internet 🙂
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Both!😁
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A thousand apologies. I had trouble uploading yesterday and may have hit the button multiple times in frustration….or exhaustion!
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Mel, it’s not a problem and is understandable 🏃♀️😎
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💜💜
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No worries. You just might find the comments are spread around 🤔
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I bet you’re glad this day is behind you! You are a legend! Xx
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Yep, it was a tough one, but so beautiful. Thanks so much for following the madness.
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That does not sound like a fun day of hiking! Hoping it was one of the worst days you will experience – onwards and upwards Mel x 🙂
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Thanks, cheer squad! Your good wishes are much appreciated. Xx
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Oh wow – I’ve had some bush-whacking experiences in my life, but yours takes the cake (and you were all by your lonesome!). But that scenery – ugh – almost enough to get me out there on a camino myself!
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You would love walking a Camino. It has everything in the one package. You just need to pick the route to suit you best.
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I’m curious what Camino app you were using that got you off the path? I’m walking this in September, along with the Primitivo and Ruta Verde – if I can find out if it’s in any shape to walk still!
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I used the Buen Camino app for the Camino Madrid and it was pretty good. I am now using the Camino Assist app as the other doesn’t cover this path. I kept an eye on it today and, while it said I was heading in the right direction, me as the little blue dot never actually sat on the line/path. I am not sure why that would be the case. I hope to go back to the Buen Camino app for the Primitivo. Happy planning…
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I’ll be using Wise Pilgrim – it’s been great on other caminos, so we shall see!:-)
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Noted. Ta
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Oh, what a challenging day! Up, up, up and away! Climbing over a fence (a few times) is an exercise in itself! I keep reminding myself on walks like this – trust your gut, not technology … but am I learning? No! On the bright side (there always is one), you had some beautiful views. Good job Mel (it was worth publishing it 3 times 😉).
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Thanks so much and sorry for the posting overkill!
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Aww I think this is my favourite stage so far based on the photos, it looks EPIC. But I can see that with that it’s also exhausting getting up and down the hills and through all the bushes. You’ve definitely earned a wine or 10 after this one Mel!
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Epic is an excellent description! A rest day tomorrow and maybe I will give that wine a nudge then!😁
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Wowsers. I know those climbs must have been tough but gosh, that scenery….
Many an Alltrails user has learnt the hard lesson about blindly following an online path. Ah well. These trials are always good learning experiences and you survived and learnt something. Well done. 😁
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Thanks. A big day ahead.
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Fabulous scenery. Tough enough walking without adding on extra kms.
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Yep, you got that right! But what can you do? You’ve still got to get to the final destination…. 🙂
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