Feet as Fish Food – Getting Nibbled On In Sabah, Borneo

I have done some strange things in my time and standing in some random river with massive fish nibbling on my feet, has to be right up there with the weirdest!

And the strangest thing? It was lots of fun!

Slip your shoes and socks off, and join me in the river in the wilds of Borneo.

I am so far from being a girlie girl it’s not funny and yet, even I had heard of the phenomenon of fish foot spas. I had seen them on TV where very girlie girls slip off their Manolo Blahniks and dip their delicate tootsies into a tank filled with tepid water and thousands of tiny fish.

A visit to the Luanti Fish Spa near Ranau was absolutely NOTHING like that!

Located in the small non-descript town of Luanti, the signs for the fish spa could be easily missed as the jungle encroaches right to the edge of the road and climbing vines entwine over, under and around any static thing, and that includes signage. Despite its slightly run down look, I had supreme trust in our guide Roland that he would stick roughly to our itinerary and not lead us too far astray.

Always up for an adventure, I happily tumbled off the bus and followed Roland up a muddy road, and past some empty, ramshackle market stalls doing their best to resist the jungle’s tendrils. A few stallholders were sleepily unpacking their wares and their tempo picked up significantly when they saw a group of Western tourists bearing down on them.

After about 100m, we came to the main access to the river and, following a succinct safety briefing (Be careful where you step and Don’t fall in), we were handed a small bag of fish food and pointed in the direction of the water. With slightly nervous laughter, we slipped off our shoes and sandals, and gingerly tiptoed to the river’s edge.

What was waiting for us? Hundreds of MASSIVE fish!

These fish knew the drill and didn’t need to be enticed with any fish food. They had obviously dined at this establishment many times before.

There were big carp, little carp and every size in between. Every now and then a huge catfish (about 80cm long) would push through the other fish, bullying its way forward to get its share of the fish pellets.

Nervous laughter turned to shrieks and giggles as the carp finished the entrée of the pelleted food and turned to our toes for main course. Many of us were looking forward to a good pedicure and had visions of smooth heels and banished calluses. Unfortunately, the fish seemed to prefer our ankles and lower legs, and there were shrieks of pain as well as laughter as the carp feasted on the softer skin. I had the bruises to prove it.

The “Jaws” movie theme music kept running through my brain as we stood knee deep in the crystal-clear water. Of course, it was not as serious as that, but why spoil the story with the facts? There were also quite a few jokes about piranhas, but surely that would make for a very short-lived tourist attraction?

After the initial flurry (or was that ‘feeding frenzy’?), a few plastic chairs were found and we took turns sitting and floating our feet in the cool water. This proved to be slightly more successful than simply standing, allowing an all-over dining option for the fish. You had to be careful though that the chair didn’t sink and tip you into the river, otherwise you might get nibbled in places far too sensitive for nibbling.

So, how did this attraction develop? Apparently, there is a long-held spiritual connection with the waterway and caring for the river makes sense as a valuable source of food for the local people. Some rivers were dammed in small sections to hold the fish which supplement the villager’s diet in times of famine or drought when crops may fail. I am not sure how someone made the leap from fish as a food source to feeding tourists’ feet to them!

These fish were certainly well-fed. Other than sprinkling the pellets on top of the water, you could also hand feed them. Holding a few pellets in your closed fist, the fish would happily suck the pellets out of your clenched hand. Yep, a weird feeling, but enjoyable all the same.

Still laughing and shaking our heads at the wackiness of it all, we made our way back to the bus. The stallholders were ready for us this time with souvenirs, soft drinks and snack food. Maybe a few of the group were in need of a sugar hit to settle their nerves.

While it had been a very simple experience, it was a memorable one. The things you do in foreign countries!

Have you ever been fish food?

The Basics

What: There is an entrance fee to participate, but I am not sure how much it is. They don’t seem to have a website explaining cost or opening times.

Where: Kampung Luanti Baru, 89300 Ranau, Sabah, Malaysia

When: Go early in the morning before all the other tourists get there and feed the fish.

Why: For something completely different, a good laugh and an average pedicure.

How: We were on an organised tour and our bus deposited us not too far from the gate. The Spa is located adjacent to a main road, so I suspect that public buses would drive right past.

Who: For the non-ticklish or the not-too-ticklish or those in need for a good laugh.

Related Posts: Not quite as weird as being dined on by fish, but a camel ride in the Thar Desert is pretty different.

Related Blogs: Travelling the Wildside also enjoyed a fish foot spa, but it was in a much more controlled environment.

Read About it: For an historical insight into life in Sabah and Sandakan pre-, during and post WWII, grab a copy of one of Agnes Newton Keith’s trilogy. Available from Fishpond.

I was fish food in early March 2023.

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