I love heading out into the Aussie bush on my own. It’s even better when you explore with like-minded walkers and it’s even better again when those walkers introduce me to a track I have never heard of. I am rarely disappointed by their revelations.
Join me for one helluva lung-busting climb up onto the Genowlan plateau and you won’t believe the views when we eventually puff and pant our way to the top!

My first thought as we turned off the tar road and bumped into the carpark area was, “how on Earth did they ever find this place?” Not only was it pretty remote, there was absolutely no signage indicating where to turn off the main road – just a wide dirt track heading off into the bush.
My next thought as I drove on into the clearing and looked up, up, up at the towering escarpment was, “they want me to walk up there?!”
There was nothing left for me to do, but to take a deep breath, pull up my Big Girl panties, and set off…
Here are the Nuts and Bolts of this little walk:
- Distance: approx. 10km
- Time: Dependent on your lung capacity and fitness levels, allow five hours.
- Rating: Moderate-to-hard
- Terrain: The first section is a steep and stiff climb involving 360m elevation over 1-1.5km. From there is it undulating once you get up onto the plateau and then various steep descents and ascents as you head into various hidden valleys.




- Path: Wide fire trails and secluded, hard-to-see bush tracks.
- Mobile Phone Coverage: Telephone reception is patchy. I recommend you pack a PLB in case of emergency.
- Water: Take plenty of water with you. There may be an odd creek running, but I wouldn’t rely on sourcing water in this area.
- Sun Protection: Wear a hat and sunscreen. Even though there is plenty of shade on the path, the Australian sun is unforgiving.
- Bities: This area would be prime snake country in summertime. Be careful where you step. Also take bug spray if you are walking in warmer temperatures.





- Bushfires: Be careful with any cigarettes or naked flame. You are walking in a very inaccessible area and it would be difficult to make a quick getaway.
- Toilets: There are no toilet facilities out on the path and nothing in the carparking area. The closest public toilets are back at the village of Capertee – about 8km. Find your closest large tree.




General Comments:
- As this walk was part of our local Bushwalking Club planned activities, we were blessed with a walk leader who knew the area well and had all the relevant maps on her phone. Thank goodness for that as I would never have found the various tracks that we enjoyed on the day. One minute we were casually walking along a clearly marked fire trail and the next minute we were turning left and plunging into the bush.
- Today’s hike included three main paths or highlights. (1) The Genowlan Plateau: We arrived at the plateau immediately after our challenging climb up from the carpark clearing, pausing to take in the stunning views of the sandstone pagodas and escarpments as we enjoyed a well-earned morning tea break. (2) Valley of the Dinosaurs: straight after morning tea, we went off piste and bush-bashed out way cross country and headed down the narrowest of canyons to emerge in lush, fern-covered valleys. (3) The Ultimate Slot: was another unmarked track that revealed an awe-inspiring natural phenomenon – an 80m high and 50m deep slot in the mountainside you could shimmy into once your backpack was removed. Ahhh, the power of Mother Nature.




- Today was all about a complete immersion in the Australian bush. It’s a sensory experience on every level, including the tangy scents of Australian eucalypts.
- When I head out on walks like this it brings home the sense of privilege I feel that I live in such a spectacular country and that I have the ability (access, health, fitness and time) to participate in such an activity.
- The towering tree ferns and eroded sandstone cliffs really made me feel like I had stepped back in time. I wouldn’t have been overly surprised to see dinosaurs quietly grazing in those hidden valleys! 😊



Top Tips for this Track:
- You can undertake some of the path simply by following the fire trails. For an even deeper immersion, hike with someone with knowledge of the area or get some maps of the remoter trails from an online provider such as Locus maps.
- Walk quietly and step softly and you may be rewarded with sightings of lyrebirds. You’ll definitely hear their melodic songs/calls.
- There are other walks in the area once you get up onto the plateau, including to the Diamond Mine.
- As a safety measure, tell someone where you are planning to walk. Parts of this area are very remote.

Overall, this is a stunning walk and worth every drop of sweat and calorie-burned to get there. Get on out there!
When has your effort been rewarded?
The Basics
What: Mugii Murum-ban State Conversation Area covers 3,650ha. It is possible to camp there (no facilities onsite) and you will need to take (in and out) everything you need. Bookings are required and a small fee applies.
Where: Approximately 8km east of Capertee on the Glen Davis Road.
When: I would avoid this area in the dead of Summer. The lack of water and bushfire risk would take all the fun out of it.
Why: For the joy of a good walk full of contrasts and beauty.
How: There is no public transport servicing this area, so it is Shank’s Pony (your two feet) or drive. You can catch the public bus to Capertee and then walk from there if you are feeling energetic.

Who: This is not an accessible path for those with mobility difficulties. Be prepared for the steep terrain going up and, of course, down again to get back to your car.
Related Posts: Another fantastic hike off the beaten track in the general vicinity is the Pipeline Track hike from Glen Davis which follows the path of the old shale oil pipeline to Newnes. The history of this area is fascinating.
Related Blogs: Jo always takes us to interesting places on her walks, although the countryside is very different. For a glorious stroll in picturesque France, have a look at her wander in Dinan.
Read About It: For a truly unique walk in the Aussie bush, check out Anthony Sharwood’s experiences in From Snow to Ash as he attempts the Australian Alps Walking Track. It is an epic adventure and I reviewed it here.

#bushwalk #travelinspo #shortwalks #capertee #centralwestnsw #australianflora #genowlanplateau #greatoutdoors #heartstarter #nationalparks #valleyofthedinosaurs #ultimateslot #daywalks #mugiimurumban

What a brilliant training ground for you upcoming trek in Nepal. The views at the top would’ve been icing on the proverbial cake. Nothing like a bush walk to clear your head and tire you out 😉
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Yep, I just need to replicate that lung-busting climb for about 12 days straight and I will be in peak physical condition for Nepal! 🙂
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Better you than me. Though having said that, the challenge of training is invigorating. Pushing out our boundaries 🙂
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I think I need more boundary pushing to be happening here!! 😉
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What a fabulous walk. I enjoyed reading all about it.
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Yes, and the Club is going back to this spectacular area on Sunday and unfortunately I have to work! Bugger!
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Phew! Why is it that every time I read one of your walks I feel less fit, Mel? Spectacular stuff in the right company. Thanks for the mention. I can’t wait to follow you across Nepal.
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Never fear, I will be taking all those Nepalese ‘ups’ VERY slowly! 🙂
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Wow🤩this is so cool. I love the scenery. Lovely post💕
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Thanks for reading and Yes, it is a very special place to walk.
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What a gorgeous way to spend 5 hours! The slot and circular hole formations are particularly neat. I would be a little freaked out hiking this alone (way-finding and bush fires and snakes, oh my!) so hurrah to the group hike!
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I’m with you. These trails are much more enjoyable when they are shared…and someone knows where we are going! 🙂
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Wow, what a truly fascinating place to explore with a good company. I am in awe of the sheer size of the rock faces, the narrow valleys and the lush green ferns covering te ground. It looks like a truly magical place. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Thanks Aiva – Yep, ‘magical’ is the best way to describe it. You enjoy your day too.
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🥰🥰🥰
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What a great find! I love all of the cliffs and rock features and wow the size of those ferns!
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There is so much more to explore in this area. I look forward to getting back there one day although, unfortunately I will miss the Club’s return visit this weekend. I sure could do with completing that ascent multiple times over! 🙂
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Oh my goodness, what a cool place! I love the narrow canyons and, especially, the giant ferns. I think I would very much enjoy wandering around here.
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The ferns may make it difficult to do a handstand, but you could do a spectacular one up on top of some of those pagoda rock formations. 🙂
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It’s certainly spectacular scenery and very different to the UK
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Agreed, our scenery is so much harsher and ‘pricklier’ – enjoyable all the same and there is a weird kind of beauty there.
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There are few things that are as rewarding on a hike when you hike up a steep uphill/mountain and the views are spectacular! Ha, you know the saying: “Any tree is a lavatree (lavatory)”! I love the colours of the eroded sandstone cliffs – it looks like a painting. Just a question: Who walks with a teddy bear on his/her back? Lovely walk (I’m saying that from the comfort of my couch).
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One of our Club members likes to bring her bear which is the unofficial Club mascot. That bear has been everywhere! 🙂
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It looks like a wonderful hike! I’d enjoy the smell of the eucalyptus, and the ferns and the rocks and colours are just wonderful. Great you had such a good guide too – always makes it much easier 🙂
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Sometimes it is nice just to turn off the brain and follow the crowd… Have a good day
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This looks amazing. Great you had a leader. I would struggle with no toilet for 8lm but a tree would suffice if no people around 😂
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Luckily there were a lot of trees!! 🙂
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It does look rather Jurassic Park
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We would have found out how fast we could ‘walk’ if we saw a dinosaur lumbering towards us through the tree ferns! 🙂
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I’d love to do this one, looks amazing.
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It was and I missed a return visit a couple of weeks ago. The Club walked to the Diamond Mine while I had to work. Bugger!
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Oh now that’s not very fair
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Thems the breaks! I have to fund my adventures some how. 🙂
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