I am sure Ramechap is a perfectly nice village for the locals, but all of us would-be hikers were keen to see it in our rearview mirror or from far above on a direct flight to Lukla.
So, it was with yet more enthusiasm that we bounded out of bed at 430am AGAIN, packed our bags, wolfed down our porridge and excitedly stampeded to the airport…
Day: 5
Date: Sunday, 6 October 2024.
From: Ramechap (1,370m) To: Lukla (2,800m) to Ghat (2,600m) to Monjo (2,850m)
Daily Km: 14.8km Walking Time: Not recorded
Progress: 14.8km
Ascent: 533m Descent: 515m
Weather: Clear and hot with a gentle breeze.
Terrain: Big descent then ascent on wide, well-formed paths with tonnes of steps and a few suspension bridges thrown in.
Stayed At: World Expeditions campsite
General Comments:
- We were ridiculously optimistic that today would be our day to finally get to Lukla and start walking. We were now two days behind schedule and we were getting stale, bored and pretty frustrated that our Everest adventure was just out of reach.
- In a positive sign, two of our group snagged a seat on an early plane to Lukla and we actually saw their plane take off. Action at last!
- Looking around the Departures area, I estimate that only about 25% of hikers were women. The airport was heaving with young men in brand new, branded hiking gear and oozing wall-to-wall testosterone. Understandable I guess, considering what this adventure held in store for us. Most normal people lie on a beach for their holiday! 😊
- Then it was our turn and there was a rather undignified rush to the plane. We had been told to grab a seat on the left-hand side of the plane for the best views of the mountains and potentially, Everest herself.
- In a blink of an eye, the flight was up and almost over, and we were coming in to land at the most dangerous airport in the World. Picture a very short runway, slanting uphill and ending in a solid wall of mountain! There was little room for error and thankfully our pilots were incredibly experienced and capable. In a matter of minutes we had landed, tumbled off the plane, a new load of passengers had boarded, and the plane had taken off again. Almost like a public bus or train shuttle service!
- My head was spinning as we stepped out of the airport and we were faced with a wall of hopeful porters, guides and touts – all aiming to sell their services. Roy, our guide, took control and ushered us through the mêlée.
- Lukla is a bustling place with its entire economy revolving around hikers and all the products and services required for a successful trip. It is clean and well-presented, and we all looked forward to exploring it more, but now it was time to walk!
- Yay! We were on our way. The sun was shining, it was pleasantly cool, and there was so much to look at. That’s one of the things I really like about visiting Asian countries – there is so much input, colour, chaos and contrast to our very ‘normal’ and slightly bland home countries. Sharing the track with mule convoys instantly showed me we weren’t in Australia anymore! 😊
- From the get-go the walking was hard. We plunged straight down to a small village called Ghat on steep and rocky paths, or stepping ever downwards from step to stair. In our excitement to get going, we all neglected to get our hiking poles out of our duffle bags. Hiking poles would have made it much easier on the knees.
- Originally, we were to overnight at the World Expeditions camp at Ghat, but as we were two days behind schedule, we had a quick lunch there and then pushed on to Monjo.
- Wherever we looked was a stunning vista or something of interest. I was surprised at how green and lush the landscape was, and every dwelling was a neat as a pin with abundant vegetable and flower gardens. For some reason I thought it would be far more barren and sparse in the Himalayas. It was completely opposite to that.
- Our first suspension bridge caused a ripple of excitement, especially as it bounced and wobbled about with all our bodies and footsteps. Luckily, heights don’t worry me and I loved it all.
- With almost every step we were dazzled by spectacular mountain views or the powerful, boiling, roiling Dudh Kosi (Milk River). Its sheer power had shifted the most enormous boulders and gouged out great swathes of land. To see it in full flood in the Springtime would be an awesome sight.
- The climb on from Ghat was a killer. Our initial high spirits and enthusiasm had passed, our string of early morning starts were catching up with us, and it was getting hot.
- Five hours later we ambled into the camp at Monjo and never have I been so glad to see a tent!
- Today was my first introduction to hiking at altitude and the constant battle to catch my breath would become the norm over the next couple of weeks.
- Our guides were very good at making sure we took regular breaks and the ‘rule’ was never to walk past Sandeep, at the head of our group. He was the pace setter and he ensured we all went ‘slowly, slowly’.
Highlights & Tips:
- Top Tip: Get your bloody hiking poles out of your duffle bag and use them from the get-go. Your knees will thank you!
- Sun Protection: The sun and air at different at higher altitudes. Apologies for my ignorance as this was my first experience walking at this elevation. I recommend plenty of sunscreen and the usual protective clothing.
- The main highlight for the day was that we were walking AT LAST! It felt good to be moving our bodies, although after 8hours on the trail on our first day, we were very happy to stop moving at Monjo.
- The landscape and scenery were the true highlights today. Everything was fresh and new to me, and I think I must have driven the guides half crazy with all my questions. I loved the prayer rocks, wheels and stone tablets all sending out the Om Mani Padme Hum prayers to the heavens.
#travelinspo #EverestBaseCamp #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #Nepal #themostdangerousairportintheWorld #WorldExpeditions # epicadventures #controlledchaos #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #exoticdestinations #shortflights #overseastravel #travelplanning #hikingadventures #Ramechap #airportchaos #hurryupandwait #swingingbridges #Everesthighway
Life...one big adventure 
Wow, your finally off and running. Its getting exciting like a mystery novel “did you do it?”
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‘Running’ is probably a far too generous description for how I covered the territory! 🙂
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You’re on your way, and surrounded by beauty.
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A stunning view wherever we looked. Simply amazing!
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Thanks so much for taking me with you, Mel. It’s something I could never do but it’s so joyful ‘walking’ along behind you. I’ve never seen anything like those prayer rocks, and the clouds swirling around the mountain tops are just breathtaking.
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I could hardly believe we were walking at last and the scenery definitely did not disappoint!
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Yay you’re on your way! I hope you got to stay in a couple of teahouse and not all tents. It is a uniquely Nepalese experience. Maggie
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Yep – a good mix of accommodation. Tents down lower and tea houses/lodges higher up. The tents were very comfy though…
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Amazing, what an absolute adventure – can’t wait to read more, Mel!
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The biggest adventure yet! Not sure how I can top it and whether I want to… 🙂
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Make room for me on your shoulder. I’ll keep my eyes shut on the swing bridges, they make me feel a bit queasy. The Husband takes great photos BTW.
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Always room for you, Jude. I’m only carrying a daypack after all. 🙂 The Husband took his big camera and I just had my point-and-click. His camera took great photos, but its extra 3kgs really tested him the higher we climbed…
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Great to see that you finally got out of a seat and on your feet! 🥾
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Absolutely! It felt so good to be moving again…
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I’m starting to enjoy this now that I’ve got past all that travelling and waiting. Just joking of course, but it really does look fantastic. That said, I’m glad I’m looking at the scenery thanks to your fabulous photos from the comfort of my own home.
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I am hearin’ ya. It was a very frustrating start to this adventure, but so worthwhile once we actually got going. And don’t worry, I spent a fair bit of time dreaming of the comfort of my own lounge at home – especially on the really steep bits! 🙂
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Glad you’re up and walking at last! 😀
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Me too!
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I’m so excited for you! Not just that you got to start the hike, but that you survived Lukla Airport! Great photos. Love the suspension bridges.
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There was quite a bit of cheering come from inside the plane when we touched down at Lukla! 🙂
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I meant to ask: how long was the flight exactly?
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I always get boggled by flight times, but it was 15hrs to Doha and then another 4.5hrs to Kathmandu! We could have been at your house quicker!😁
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Oh, sorry, no. I meant the flight to Lukla. You said it was over quickly, but I was curious just how quickly.
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Oh sorry – misunderstood. The flight was only about 20mintues, if that. It truly was a shuttle run.
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Got it. Thank you.
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So glad you finally made it and got out walking! The scenery looks spectacular 😀
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Yes, at last! We almost sprinted out of Lukla until reality set in! 😉
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Amazing! Now I want to do this. And I think the most challenging part for me, ironically, would be the flight landing in Lukla 🤣
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🙂 It’s all over so quickly – only minutes between landing and tumbling off the plane. Maybe if you closed your eyes it would help??
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Most dangerous airport in the world and suspension bridges … hmm, I think I’m going to enjoy this adventure a lot more from the comfort of my couch! But wow, the scenery is incredibly beautiful – and I’m glad we’re on the hiking section now … waiting like that for something to happen is very exhausting.
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This trek had a little bit of everything thrown in and usually it was found on top of a bloody great mountain! 🙂
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Flying in Nepal is like war: long periods of boredom punctuated by moments of terror too short to feel until later. Exactly as you described.
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I love that description! May I use it later?? 🙂
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You certainly can, and pay me royalty in cakes and ales if we ever meet 🙂
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🙂 Done!
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Incredible scenery and I totally agree with you about there being so much to see and take in all over Asia 😀 You’re probably right that “Most normal people lie on a beach for their holiday” – we don’t, but at the same time I could never take on anything this strenuous, so it’d great to be able to experience it through you!
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Thank you so much for following the adventure…or madness. 😉
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Oh my gosh, yay!! You made it!! That runway looks very scary. But once you’re there… oh wow. I can’t decide what I like best… the greenery, the waterfall, the colors, or the mountains. Who am I kidding? Obviously the mountains.
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Your challenge would be to find a small patch of level ground to do a handstand on!😎
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Pleased you finally managed to get to Lukla safely. Like you I’m surprised with the scenery. I had the misbelief that where we walked back in 2013 on the Annapurna side of Nepal was greener but the early part of your trek looks equally verdant and magnificent. Cheers, Mark
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The higher we climbed, the harsher it got, but there was still beauty in the barrenness.
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