I’m not going to lie…this morning I woke up with tired and stiff legs. The ol’ knees had taken a pounding on yesterday’s long and steep descent from Omanui/McKinnon Pass, and they were less than thrilled by the thought of a 21km day ahead.
The rest of me was rearing to go – all set for yet another day of fabulous forest paths and wonderful waterfalls.
Time to load ‘em up and move ‘em out…
Day: 4
Date: Saturday, 15 February 2025.
From: Quintin Lodge To: Milford Sound
Distance (Official): 21km Actual: 22km
Progress: 66.8km
Time: 5h26m
Ascent: 253m Descent: 466m
Weather: Clear and hot. Who would have thought I could be so lucky weather-wise in New Zealand (NZ)?
Terrain: Forest paths, dark bushy canyons with Old Man’s Beard and Gremlin Moss dangling from the branches. Where are Gandalf and the Hobbits? Crystal clear streams, rivers, and refreshing waterfalls.
Stayed At: Mitre Peak Lodge
General Comments:
- Before I get onto describing today, I don’t think I have discussed all the pest traps that we have walked past every day since leaving Glade House, although I think they have featured in some photos. They are long wooden boxes – about 60cm long, and 20cm high and wide – and seem to be placed adjacent to the track, every 100m or so. Each box has a small hole at each end – about the size of a matchbox – and it is through these holes that rats, stoats and weasels squirm to get to the bait.
- Today as I was walking along, I came across a young woman leaning over an open box, cleaning it out (an ex-rat) and laying new bait. The bait is actually raw meat and when the animal squeezes into the dark box, it triggers a hammer-like device and WHAMMO! It is squashed! Very effective and very final.
- I thought the whole thing was fascinating and she probably thought I was completely weird! 😊
- Today felt a little like I was walking through a Lord of the Rings movie set. It was all dark, bushy canyons with lush, green overgrowth edging onto the trail. Old Man’s Beard and Gremlin Moss hung from branches and wafted gently in the breeze. It gave everything a very ancient and gnarled look.
- It was very atmospheric walking down long, green corridors. Much of the ground and rocks were covered in moss and lichens, which added to the moist, lush feeling of the place. I am not sure whether mosses etc have a noise dampening effect too? Either way, it was lovely and quiet once you got away from the chattering group.
Highlights & Tips:
- The beautiful noise from today was all the birdsong. They were constantly flittering through the trees and branches, protesting my presence in their patch. I saw the little ‘Nike’ bird again (it has a white swoosh on its wing) plus a fantail, but the highlight were the keas flying above and then zooming down to the trees right next to the track. I could see every feather and beak detail of these character-filled birds.
- For most of the day the path hugged the edges of creeks, rivers and lakes. Our guides encouraged us to take our time and really take in our surroundings as our ferry was not collecting us until mid-afternoon and there was definitely plenty of time for a swim or a paddle.
- We were constantly serenaded by the sound of babbling brooks, rushing water and tumbling waterfalls with the highlights being Mackay Falls and Giants Gate Falls. Even in a mini-drought there was seemingly limitless water gushing over the edges of cliffs and delivering a cooling spray to hot, and weary walkers.
- Unfortunately, the more I walked, the more I knew we were getting closer to civilisation. Trail runners were actually jogging towards us (apparently, they run the whole Milford Track in one day) and then, after our lunch top at Giants Gate, day walkers were everywhere. They were easy to spot as they were far cleaner and fresher than us after a 21km day.
- And unfortunately, I eventually strolled into Sand Fly Point – the official end of the Milford Track. I was not ready for this walk to be over and could easily have lined up for another couple of days. As I sat and waited for the ferry, I felt quite sad that I had come to the end of the trail and I was not the only one with these sad sentiments. A few other people I spoke to felt exactly the same.
- And unfortunately, it is called Sand Fly Point for a very good reason! Those little mongrels are everywhere and they bite!! They look harmless enough – tiny little midgie-looking things, but even being covered in bug spray is no deterrent to them.
- Bugs don’t normally bite me as I mustn’t be tasty enough, but they were flocking to my bare legs (I always hike in shorts) like I was their only meal ticket in NZ. It wasn’t until about five days later though that their presence was truly felt and I was one itching, scratching mess. Very, very uncomfortable! You have been warned.
- The ferry duly arrived and it was a spectacular way to finish the walk and be introduced to Milford Sound. We probably looked a bit scruffy and dishevelled in comparison to the sparkling clean tourists milling around the wharf area, but we had earned our dishevelment and gathered memories of a lifetime.
How lucky are we?
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Life...one big adventure 
One of the reasons why I no longer hike with the local tramping club was the constant chatter; it drove me up the wall. Anyway, those are fabulous photos, and you had a wonderful time. Other people have noted the descent was rugged on their knees. Well done, Mel x
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There is a time and place for everything…just not all at once out on the trail. 🙂
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At rest stops. There are so many NZ tracks to do with fewer tourists 😊
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🙂 and I am looking forward to getting amongst those tracks one day soon!
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Beautiful scenery. But way too many bugs!
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A small price to pay for such an amazing experience. 🙂
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Oh, to have this lush green scenery here today! 😊
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Exactly. We so need rain now, it’s not funny.
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Those photos are wonderful, Mel. Such magnificent scenery! I was with you in spirit xx
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Yep, stupendous scenery and, as always, my photos don’t do it justice.
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What a pretty walk today, and quite a variety. Too bad it’s over.
I guess weasels were introduced to NZ and that’s why they’re killing them? Maggie
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Yep, weasels and stoats were introduced for various hunting and fur reasons (I think) and loved the country so much they just took over and are severely damaging the local wildlife population. Apparently even the Aussie possums will eat the young chicks etc in the nests. The authorities have a BIG project in front of them to eradicate all the feral animals. Have a good weekend. Mel
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Really enjoyed reading about your Milford Track journey Mel (and re living my own through your pictures). Fortunately I had packed some midge head nets and we were the envy of our little group of independents whilst waiting for the ferry as there wasn’t anybody else with them and they didn’t seem to sell them in NZ 😀
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I see a business opportunity for you there, Jim! 🙂 They didn’t seem to go for my head, but the LOVED my feet and legs. Mongrels! 🙂
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“…like I was their only meal ticket in NZ…” Being from Australia and all, you might qualify as foreign food for these NZ sand flies. Maybe they just wanted to bite/taste something new and exotic? 😉
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Hmmm, I think I would be a bit chewy and past my use-by date!! 🙂
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Such beauty. What a place!
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Beauty in every direction!
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What a spectacular part of the world! Your photos are absolutely stunning. The bugs sounds like a nightmare though and not the way you want to end a hike.
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Oh well, you gotta take the good with the bad. 🙂
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Beautiful! I love the waterfall, but I love that last photo more. On to the last day…
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Yes, incredibly beautiful. I have accrued so many happy memories.
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Oh the views are just beautifullll
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Every day delivered stunning views. I was so lucky.
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This is a beautiful hiking trail – well, I didn’t expect anything but that from NZ! I want to echo your concerns about walking in a big group — and that it’s actually not that bad at all. We did a 10-day hiking route on a local “Camino” a few years ago with 60 other hikers and it never felt like we were rushed – each hiked at his/her own pace. Sometimes the things we fear the most are not so bad at all 😉!
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True! It’s all about our attitude.
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