The Hiking Joy Continues on The Kepler Track, New Zealand – Day 2

Early this morning I woke up, not so much to the sound of snoring, but to the soothing sound of rain falling on the hut roof. I love the sound of rain on tin roofs as it so rarely rains where I live and the Optimist in me decided that it would rain itself out overnight, to reveal a bright, shiny morning.

Nope! Today turned out to be almost the complete reverse of yesterday – both terrain and temperature-wise.

Time to get out of bed and get on with the day.

Day: 2

Date: Wednesday, 19 February 2025.

From:  Luxmore Hut (1,085m)         To: Iris Burn Hut (497m)

Distance (Official): 14.6km            Actual: 15.2km

Progress: 32.9km

Time: 4h58m

Ascent: 650m                                     Descent: 1,223m

Weather: Cool, windy, horizontal rain, thick fog and cloud, and then hot once the descent started.

Terrain: A couple of very steep ascents on narrow paths around the edge of mountains and along exposed ridgelines. Then a long, long, long steep descent through beech forest.

Stayed At: Iris Burn Hut (497m)

General Comments:

• I tell a lie. It wasn’t raining when I got up, but within 10minutes of leaving the hut, I was scrabbling for my pack cover and within another 5minutes, I was dragging on my rain jacket.
• Thank goodness it wasn’t bucketing rain, however the wind had sprung up and it was driving the rain sideways. It was pretty bloody cold too. Ah, this is the New Zealand I was expecting!!

• Yesterday morning was hot and dry. This morning it was cold and damp. Yesterday started on blissfully flat paths and this morning it was all UP!
• The Kepler Track is a little like the Milford Track in that there is only one really big day of ascent and descent. Today was our day for the ascent fun and games.

• The wind blew. The mist swirled. The rain came and went, and the path went UP! Every now and then I would get a glimpse through the fog of the surrounding landscape, and it was breathtakingly beautiful.
• After trudging along the track for an hour or so, following the steep and rocky path, I arrived at the base of Mt Luxmore. Through the fog I could briefly see that I was high up on a ridgeline with sheer drops to deep valleys featuring mirror-like lakes nestled at the very bottom. All of this scenery had towering, jagged mountains as dramatic backdrops. The mist came, the mist went as it wanted – deciding when and where to allow a view.

• I caught up with a young New Zealand couple at the turn off to Mt Luxmore. The weather was so windy and the fog so thick that we decided that it was a bit pointless climbing up to the top only to see yet more fog and cloud. We agreed that we could live without hiking up Mt Luxmore and pushed on up the trail, and into more thick fog. Where were Gandalf and Bilbo? I expected them, at any second, to come charging out of the fog being pursued by murderous orcs.
• With few expansive views around me, I brought my focus a little closer to home to examine the many and varied lichens, and mosses that carpeted the rocks adjacent to the track. I know nothing about plants, but can admire their colours and structure. They must be incredibly hardy to survive in these harsh alpine conditions. Much better suited to this climate and altitude than we humans.

• Out of the mist Forest Burn Shelter materialised and it was a very welcome sight. This little hut is very basic, but would be a true lifesaver if the weather turned dangerous. For us it was a small reprieve from the biting wind and our snacks never tasted so good.
• Adjacent to the shelter is a toilet with the best view in all of New Zealand…because it doesn’t have a door! Thankfully there aren’t a lot of people walking past so you can enjoy the view in relative peace. 😊 Just remember to close the lid and replace the large rock that sits on top of the lid. That is to keep the mischievous keas out of the dunny!

• UP we went again. We skirted more mountains on narrow, rocky paths. We hiked endless switchbacks up and down mountains, over false summits and ambled across sharp mountain ridgelines.
• After a while I started to meet people walking towards me who were hiking the track in reverse. It made me wonder which direction would be ‘best’ and I don’t think there is a best one. Both directions would be both hard and stunningly scenic.

• Up one final climb, over the top of the hill and there was Hanging Valley Shelter (1,390m). Yay! It’s lunchtime…even if it was only 1050am! Out on the trail, lunch is always a good idea. 😊
• At this point, the ascent part of the day was over and it was all downhill from here. I’m not kidding!

Highlights & Tips:

• While the descent was hard on the knees, it was a pleasant change to the endless UP. Stepping gingerly down yet another sharp and steep ridgeline, we paused to admire a kea (alpine parrot) wheeling above us, and landing in the scrub just on the side of the trail. It seemed to be following us down the hill and imagine our surprise when it landed on a short section of railing, only about 1m away from us. We just couldn’t believe our luck or its beauty and boldness.
• Obviously, it was waiting and hoping for a snack. We were tempted to reward it for putting on such a show, but it eventually flew away very disappointed by our miserly approach to feeding the local wildlife.

• Tip: If you have a ‘thing’ about heights, this path may not be for you. There are some quite narrow and exposed ridgelines to navigate on this track.
• Tip: Bring your hiking poles and use them. Your knees will thank you.
• Tip: If you get out of bed early and start walking early, you will get a better choice of bunks at the next hut. No more treacherous top bunks for me.
• Tip: Near Iris Burn Hut is a lovely waterfall. It is about a 40minute return walk (as if you haven’t had enough walking for one day), but it is a fabulous spot to cool off with a swim.
• There is also a shallow river not far from the Hut if you want to do a bit of bird spotting.

• Even though today was pretty tough, it was amazing and the scenery has to be seen to be believed. It’s times like these when I am extra appreciative of being able to do these sorts of hikes and visit landscape that you can really only truly experience by using your two feet.
• And in some ways, I am enjoying this track even more than the supported hike on the Milford Track. I can walk on my own schedule rather than having to be somewhere at someone else’s bidding.
• A hot shower though…that would be nice. 😉

Time to kick back and rest my weary legs…

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