Date: Sunday, 11 May 2025
Day: 13
From: Espagnac-St-Eulalie To: Sauliac-sur-Cele
Start Walking: 622am End Walking: 320pm
Time: 6h55m
Distance (Planned): 24.3km Distance (Garmin): 26.5km
Progress: 319.7/765km
Ascent: 569m Descent: 629m
Weather: Grey to start, then wet, wet, wet.
Stayed At: Gite O Coeur des Sens
General Comments:
• What a day! Firstly, I would like to thank those of you who did send fine-weather wishes and they kept us pretty dry for about the first 7km. And then all bets were off and it teemed down!
• We toughed it out for a while, reluctant to put our raincoats on as sometimes you are wetter and hotter in the coat rather than just strolling along in the rain. Eventually we had to concede that the weather always wins and we were battening down the hatches.
• Before the weather changed for the wetter, the views were spectacular and I managed to grab a few photos.
• A highlight of today were the amazing cliffs and our path hugged the base of them for quite a while. They were imposing.
• Even more impressive were the old houses that seemed to grow out of the rocks. They were referred to as ‘troglodyte’ homes, but my lack of French meant that I couldn’t understand the information signs and I’m not sure if they were indicating that prehistoric man also lived in caves prior to the houses being built.
• Eventually the rain forced me to put my camera away and we were getting even wetter walking along the bush paths, through the long grass, under dripping trees etc.
• At our lunch stop, The Husband consulted Google maps again and declared that rather than heading back up into the hills in the pouring rain, the road to Saulhiac was shorter, flatter and probably drier. Yep, we were ‘freestyling again!
• It turned out to be a very pleasant walk with lovely views of the Cele River and, being a Sunday, we were passed by about 10 cars in total. The rain had decided to ease off and all was right with the World.
• The sign for the village turned up around a final corner and all we had to do was find our Gite. We walked into town, through town, out the other side for about 1km and then back again. All the while, looking for a sign to the Gite.
• In the meantime, the rain bucketed down completely eliminating any skerrick of dryness on our persons. Water was squelching out of my shoes.
• We tried to call the Gite. No mobile phone service. We asked one young couple who gave us one set of directions – walking back through the village yet again. No joy.
• In desperation, through a window I spotted some people sitting around a cosy fire and I hoped they would take pity and give us some better directions!
• Bingo! Another 400m in the pouring rain and we finally arrived, absolutely sodden and more than a little out of sorts that such a simple plan could go so pear-shaped.
• Lesson of the day: freestyle at your own peril!
Top Tips:
• There is no phone service/signal in this village. We must really be getting remote or our Orange sim just doesn’t cut it in this valley.
• And needless, to say there is no WIFI either and hence this post is a day late. Apologies.
• Stick to the path wherever possible!
Bon Chemin.
Life...one big adventure 
You have me smiling, but I don’t suppose it was at all funny at the time, Mel. I was thinking that you were lucky to be ‘going it alone’ as you could please yourselves. Good and bad in that! Better luck tomorrow (or even today) xx
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As you well know, Jo, on any stroll you have to take the good with the bad. And there’s always the chance that tomorrow will be a better day.🌈🌈
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Bad luck with the weather. I imagine it must be difficult to get clothes dry when you are on the move. As for phone signals mine doesn’t even work in most of my house!
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Yes, everything had that half damp feel and fully damp smell! Not the most aromatic, in a good way!👃👃🤣
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Love the dramatic cliffs. Sounds like a drippy day. I’m glad you were finally able to locate your accommodation.
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Not the happiest of days, but I pulled up my Big Girl Undies and pushed on! 🤣😝
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What an adventure—wet, wild, and full of character! The cliffs and troglodyte homes sound incredible, and I admire your perseverance through the downpour and misdirections. Freestyling in the rain is definitely a bold move! Hope the cozy fire and warm welcome at the Gite made up for the soggy finish. Bon Chemin, and may Day 14 bring sunshine!
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Sadly, no cosy fire in our Gite, but a hot shower, dry clothes, a bucket of hot tea and snuggling under a warm blanket for an hour or so, definitely returned my equilibrium. ⚖
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Ah, no fire—but it sounds like you created the perfect version of cozy anyway! Sometimes all it takes is tea, warmth, and a good blanket to reset the soul. Here’s hoping Day 14 brings drier skies and smoother trails. Bon Chemin!
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Yep, every day is different on the trail and that’s why I like it so much! Keep those blue sky thoughts comin’ !🌞
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Absolutely—that unpredictability is half the magic, isn’t it? Each day brings its own little surprise, challenge, or joy. Sending you a steady stream of blue sky thoughts and trail magic for Day 14 and beyond! 🌤️👣 Bon Chemin!
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Merci beaucoup, mon ami!🥐🥐
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The countryside looks green, lush and beautiful Mel. Am I right in thinking that it is quite different to the countrysides of your other camino adventures?
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Yes, I don’t think my other Caminos have been as consistently green although walking in Portugal in Spring was probably on par for the number and variety of blooms. They all make my garden look pretty pathetic!😁
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Wow, those houses are amazing, makes up for the sodden shoes, well sort of 😉
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Thank goodness I’m an Optimist otherwise I would have packed up and gone home a long time ago!🤣🤩
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What’s a bit of rain when you’re doing an epic walk? Nothing. Optimism is contagious 🙂
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Yep, a lovely sunny day is always just around the corner and it appears we have about 5 lined up in front of us. Then…A few damp ones again, but I’m hopeful the French weather forecasters are as accurate as the Aussie ones!🙃😁🌞
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🙂
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The houses look amazing, but the rain is such a shame! You really are getting such varied weather!
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It’s Spring time, what can I say. 🙃 We just gotta take the good with the bad. And Yes, those houses in the cliffs are amazing. Such ingenuity,
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Oh, the joy of walking in the rain – only on the Camino! It has just started to rain here and it’s a sign that it’s time to go to bed now. I will see you again tomorrow! Bon Chemin.
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Bon nuit to you!
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Shame about the rain. We too found the troglodyte dwellings fascinating when we travelled in France. Cheers
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Again – so different to what we have here in Aus. I love the ingenuity of how they adapted their homes to the landscape.
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