Date: Monday, 12 May 2025
Day: 14
From: Saulhiac-sur-Cele To: Saint-Cirque-Lapopie
Start Walking: 638am End Walking: 423pm
Time: 5h59m
Distance (Planned): 20.7km Distance (Garmin): 22.1km
Progress: 340.8/765km
Ascent: 649m Descent: 619m
Weather: More bloody rain, but sunny to finish.
Stayed At: Gite d’Etape Saint-Cirque-Lapopie
General Comments:
• Well, it bucketed rain again last night and I had high hopes that it would rain itself out and we would start out under sunny skies. These turned out to be vain hopes and we started in thick fog which eventually turned into more rain. How tiresome?
• Consequently, not many photos today and they are a tad dim until blessed blue skies returned towards the end of the day.
• The pressure was on this morning as we had a ticket for a 1030 tour of Peche Merle. It meant we did not have time to linger as we had 10km to cover and breakfast, and lunch, to find beforehand.
• It turned out that Peche Merle is actually 12km away and at the top of a bloody great hill which involved a lung-busting climb.
• I worry about what the suave and sophisticated French people think of us as we arrive at our destinations sweaty and puffing messes. Hopefully, the fact that we are pelerins, gives us some leeway.
• Anyway, we arrived with about 15minutes to spare and we then had to race around finalising tickets, inhaling our pastries and generally collecting ourselves before the tour started.
• Peche Merle (www.pechemerle.com) has a fascinating history. In 1922, three young teenagers took some rope, a lamp and a few candles, and decided to crawl down a mysterious hole in the ground. Their courage led to the discovery of a massive network of underground caves decorated with animal figures first painted 26,000 years ago!
• We weren’t allowed to take photos, but if you have a look at the website, you will see how fabulous these paintings are. The caves were also full of wonderful stalactites, stalagmites and other unique formations.
• The day finished with a beautiful walk along the Cele River along paths that had been carved out of the cliffs and along tow paths, and past locks. I tried to organise a boat ride to Saint-Cirque-Lapopie, but the boat company wouldn’t be in it.😊
• After a predictable last lung-busting climb to end the day, we arrived in yet another magically, historic village and met Kay from Launceston. Our first fellow Aussie since leaving Le Puy en Velay.
Top Tips:
• Don’t miss Peche Marie. The history , Stalactites and paintings are amazing. There is a museum and gift shop, and your ticket covers a tour of the caves. Wear good footwear as it is a bit wet and slippery underground.
• If you visit Saint-Cirque-Lapopie, make sure you dine at the Lou Bolat restaurant. Delicious food and very local/regional. Their cheese selection is amazing.
• Their Gite is also very comfortable, however you can only book on a demi-pension basis. One of the more expensive places we have stayed (€47pp), but worth it.
Bon Chemin.
Life...one big adventure 
What a wild ride—fog, rain, cave art, and cheese! 😄 Props for powering through the soggy start and that “bloody great hill” to Peche Merle (those prehistoric artists owe you a warm croissant). Saint-Cirque-Lapopie sounds like the perfect fairytale finish, especially with cheese as a reward. Loving these updates—keep ‘em coming, rain and all! Bon Chemin!
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Merci beaucoup. We have definitely had a bit of everything so far and I suspect we will have more thrown at us over the next 15 days! 😜😏😳
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Haha, sounds like the adventure is just getting started! 😄 Here’s to whatever the next 15 days bring—rain, hills, or unexpected cheese breaks. Loving every step of your journey—Bon Chemin and keep the stories coming!
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Thanks so much for your support! It’s much appreciated! 🙏🙏
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What a wonderful experience! ❤️
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Yep, it’s a cracker!🥰
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Looks like a Good Day. I can’t do caves, but I do like rock art. Saw lots in Southern Africa. It kind of blows your mind thinking about the people who drew them.
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I did ask the question why those people would take such risks to crawl underground to paint their pictures and she said that it was a sacred act as they were believed to be animists. An interesting theory.
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Sounds like a wonderful place.
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Yep, it’s pretty darn special.
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Wonderful scenery, Mel, and an outing too (or an inning!) xx
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I think we are going to start hitting some flatter territory soon, so it will be interesting to see how the scenery changes from here on in. Will keep you posted! Xx
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This looks like a cracking section
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Almost every stage has had some sort of highlight. It’s going to be so hard to go home to normality AND Winter!
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We chose not to visit the Peche merle…. I explained in my book…. in St-Cirq-Lapopie we ate at the same restaurant and I assume you stay at their gite also ? We did.
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Yes, really enjoyed our time in Saint Cirq Lapopie. Great meal and facilities all ’round.
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Oups…I see you mentioned that you stayed at the gite connected to the restaurant. 😉
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Yep, a good one.
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What a place. I can’t believe those kids discovered Peche Merle by climbing down with a bit of rope and a candle!! Madness!!
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Only kids would do something like that and we get to enjoy the benefits of their bravery today. It’s a mind-boggling place. I was just wondering if the kids would still be alive today, but that would make them well over 100. I must do more research on what happened to them.
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Pretty pictures despite the clouds. In fact, I like the moody feel they lend to the photos.
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Yes, and the early morning light helps too. Every day there is a different look to the landscape and skies.
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It’s a long day on your feet! Peche Marie sounds like an incredible place to visit (definitely worth inhaling your pastries😁). And if a day on the Camino looks so beautiful in rainy weather, then you are walking on stunning paths!
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THE most stunning paths ever! They have to be seen to be believed!
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Once again it’s a shame about the weather. However Peche Merle is wonderful isn’t it. When we visited we could only join a French speaking tour. The guide gave us an English folder but from what she said in French I know we missed a lot of the details. Saint-Cirq-Lapopie was fascinating too. I remember it was quite an uphill walk through the town so I hope your accommodation wasn’t at the top. Cheers
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Oh, this sounds like I have brought back some happy memories for you?! And Yes, our accommodation was at the very top! But worth the walk. 🙂
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