I love history – any history, anywhere, anytime.
Military history is not my favourite though as I often become overwhelmed with the sadness and pointless loss of human life that is delivered by all wars. Also, many war museums focus on the machinery of war – the tanks, planes and guns – rather than the backstory of the how and why of war.
And that is why I enjoyed the Museum of Liberation in Paris so much. Yes, there was the senseless and endless loss of life, but this museum focussed on people’s stories, giving me a far greater insight into how the Second World War impacted the French people at every level of society. I had never been exposed to such a detailed French perspective before and it was truly fascinating.
Join me for a short step back in time and a diversion off the usual Parisien tourist trail…
What Is The Museum of Liberation?
- The Museum opened on its current site in 2019 after moving from its original location above the Montparnasse train station.
- As well as comprehensive audio visual and print displays, you can visit the bunker deep underground which was a defence shelter used as the command headquarters of Colonel Rol-Tanguy – head of the Forces Françaises de l’Intérieur (an umbrella body for French Resistance groups) in the Paris region.
- The displays are laid out in chronological order so you feel like you are progressing through the war, albeit in far more comfort and safety.
- The displays feature fabulous media articles and propaganda materials including old film footage. Most of these items include English translations and subtitles on the films, dramatically increasing my understanding and enjoyment of this museum.
Why Visit the Museum?
- For a completely different Parisien experience, avoiding the usual tourist trail and tourist traps, and the majority of the crowds.
- For a clearer and comprehensive understanding of WWII from a, sometimes, very personal French perspective.
- For a human perspective on war, not just the tools and machinery of war, and lists of endless battles.
- For a detailed understanding of the political and personal rivalry, as well as behind-the-scene machinations, between Maréchal Pétain and General Charles de Gaulle.
Where is It?
The Liberation of Paris – General Leclerc Museum – Jean Moulin Museum is located at 4 Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 Paris
Who is it For?
- History Buffs: If you enjoy history, especially military history, you will be in your element.
- Tourists Seeking Something Different: Trying to avoid marauding tour groups with their accompanying flag waving leaders? Want to escape the heat and busy streets of Paris? Then this place is for you.
What’s Nearby?
- There is plenty to see in this part of the Left Bank and all is within easy walking distance of the Museum.
- The Belfort Lion sits proudly in the middle of a major roundabout about 50m from the Museum. It commemorates the life of Colonel Denfert-Rochereau, who defended the community of Belfort during the Franco-Prussian War.
- The Catacombs are directly opposite the Museum and home to the remains of an estimated 6-7million people. It may sound a little morbid, but the backstory of this site is quite astounding. If this highly unusual tourist attraction is of interest make sure you book your tickets well in advance.
- The Montparnasse Cemetery is a 10minute walk away from the Museum and, while it is not as famous as the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, the graves of literary giants, Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Satre do attract their fair share of adulation.
How to Get There?
- Walk: Depending on your location, walking to the Museum is a good option, giving you the opportunity to take in all the wonderful Parisien sights and sounds.
- Metro: The closest Metro station is Denfert-Rochereau – only about 20m from the Museum.
Timing?
- Opening Hours: The Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm.
- Go Early: We visited on a Sunday morning and arrived just after opening. A small handful of like-minded early birds were there too which meant we could all enjoy the displays unobstructed. It was a dramatically different and MUCH busier story by the time we left.
- Bunker visits: Entry to the bunker is restricted to set times and limited numbers. Check at the Front Desk as you enter to receive your ticket and visit the bunkers first before wandering around the exhibitions.
- Entry Screening: You must go through a security screening process as you enter the museum. It only takes a few minutes and do leave any large bags etc at your hotel.
- Allow Time: We spent over 2.5hours strolling the exhibitions and visiting the bunker. This was enough for us and by the end, I admit to skim reading some of the displays. The people and dates were starting to blur together for me. 😊
Cost
- It’s free! The visit to the bunker is ticketed and is also free.
- There are some additional paid exhibitions, if you are interested and have to energy to keep absorbing more information
General Comments:
- This Museum is a good option if you want to avoid Paris’ usual tourist destinations and avoid the crowds at the same time.
- It really helped me understand the impact of the War on the French people and the psyche, as well as the true cost of the War to the whole country.
- It reminded me a little of that film Lee about WWII journalist Lee Miller, featuring Kate Winslet in the lead role. Both the film and the Museum have a raw, human quality.
- I felt like I had had a deeper and more genuine connection to Paris after visiting the Museum. Yes, it wasn’t glamorous and all sunshine and roses, but it was a truly authentic experience. And sometimes it is a good thing to think more deeply about a destination.
Have you had that sort of experience? A tourist attraction/destination that made you think and reflect?
#travelinspo #France #Paris #MuseumofLiberation #Leftbank #Museums #warhistory #militaryhistory #exploreonfoot #WorldWarTwo #FrenchHistory #FrenchMilitaryHistory #humancostofwar #catacombs #cemeteries #Frenchculture #FrenchResistance #labelleFrance #bunkers
Life...one big adventure 
I’m not into military history, though what I did and still do enjoy reading about is women’s roles during war time and the French Resistance. Places we stayed for months on end had more personal remembrance statues and even one on a traffic island where once stood a village. The museum would be interesting to visit.
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I’m with you. Not sure if you have heard of Australia’s White Mouse? An interesting story relating to her life in France pre-war and working for the Resistance. I can’t help but think the War empowered some women and no doubt, they didn’t want to go back to their old roles after the War was over.
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Yes, I have heard about Australia’s White Mouse, extraordinary story. I like to think many women didn’t go back to society’s norms and paved their own way. Though in reality many women didn’t have any option.
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True. A pretty devastating way to shatter societal norms.
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If you look back at most big social changes, they coincided with wars. Especially high unemployment.
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Hmm, I hadn’t thought about it that way, but it is true. The impetus for upending World order.
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I have friends who will be visiting Paris in a few weeks. I’m going to tell them about this museum.
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I hope they enjoy it. It was an eye opener for me. Have a good day. Mel
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I didn’t know of its existence, Mel, and am not sure that I’ll go back to Paris, but I do like the personal aspect it offers. Tanks and such make me shudder but the real life stories are heart wrenching. My reading often involves war related stories, set in many different countries. It’s sad that there are so many to choose from xx
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Yep, death, taxes and a was somewhere are the sad constants in life. 💔
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Like you I’m not into military history but the stories of people are endlessly fascinating.
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I try to think about how I would react if I lived at that time and also reminds me of just how lucky I am that I don’t!
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You’ve probably already seen this post (https://vanmarmot.org/2016/07/26/ww2-france-escape-1940/) but, if not, it’s another bit of history involving France. I’ve also always enjoyed the book & movie Is Paris Burning? about the liberation of that city.
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Great! Thanks for the tips. I will check them out.
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I am one who follows this sort of history but have never been to this museum, so thanls for showing me what I’ve missed Mel.
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My pleasure. Thanks for joining the museum wander.
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Hi Mel. how many days did you spend in Paris ? So much to see… Again- I can see you like writing… Why not a book ? or simply a e-book?
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Only two days in Paris. It wasn’t really planned, just one nice wind down time after the walk. And thanks for the encouragement. 😁
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There are many museums in Amsterdam and while we were there a few years ago, we wanted to visit Anne Franck museum.. this was really something I will never forget .
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Yes, Amsterdam is a place I would love to return to. I also loved Anne Frank’s house, but I missed out on some of the great art museums etc. I’d lovenyo take my bike there one day and ride around the country.
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it could be a wonderful adventure… I also like cycling but I always find it easier to take pics when I walk… Time will tell if we ever plan some other trips to the part of Europe. For now, Spain is calling again !!!
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Ah, the siren call of Spain! Enjoy all the planning and dreaming.
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YES…planning can be fun and sometimes stressful too. We are now almost all organized for our next adventure. I might consider to leave the organization to someone else another time. More expensive but free to not spend so much time searching and making decisions.
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Yes, there are pros and cons to every approach, but at least you are experienced and know what you want and how the country works. That has to make it easier.
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This sounds really really interesting. I too struggle with war history and the senselessness of it all, but this sounds like a worthwhile perspective and learning experience.
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It was all of the above. A very different way to get to know a country.
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…and its people.
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If i hadn’t read your review of the museum I probably wouldn’t have given it a second thought. Like you, I love history, but not war history for the same reasons you’ve mentioned. But this looks like a great way to understand its effects on the people of Paris. Maggie
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Yes, it was a whole lot more subtle than the usual guns and tanks, but no less interesting. Have a good weekend, Maggie.
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And this comment didn’t go into Spam! Yay for us!
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Yay!!
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Exactly! Let’s see how long it lasts. 😉
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I’m with you (and it seems most of your followers too) – not a big fan of war museums. But, in saying that, this museum looks very interesting, and I like that you mention there is a human perspective on the war.
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I just wonder why we never learn from previous mistakes? We just keep repeating them over and over…and funnily enough, get the same results!
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It’s interesting how few people in the comments enjoy war museums – they are the first stop for my husband and I in any country. It is always so sobering and I think important to learn about a country’s history, even when it’s difficult. We would enjoy this museum and it’s great to get off the main tourist trail.
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I guess it depends how it is done/communicated. If it is just row after row of military machines (like our war memorial in Canberra) then it will leave a lot of people like me, cold. If they portray the people behind the scenes or who were directly impacted by war, then that is really getting to the heart of the matter.
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Fascinating! It’s on the list for the next time I visit Paris. My husband is a political scientist who studies armed conflict, so he’d be interested in this too, I’m sure. We must never forget this time in history.
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Agreed. You would think that if we all remembered the destruction of war, we would never repeat the mistakes of the past. Unfortunately, we are the people, not the politicians!
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Yet another thing to see the next time we’re in Paris! Every time we’re in France, I think about – but just can’t quite comprehend – everything that happened there in the world wars.
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Yep, they’ve had a a helluva time of it!
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A museum I would be interested to visit if I was spending many weeks in Paris. thanks for sharing.
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My pleasure. Happy to share some nice finds. 🙂
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Awesome photo!
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Which one caught your eye?
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