Learning Fascinating Aboriginal History on the Banks of the Murray River, South Australia

I am always up for learning about history – any sort of history – and even better if the learning is done outside on a beautiful day. The Ngaut Ngaut Cultural Tour ticked all those boxes and more.

Like many other countries around the World, Australia has had a very chequered history when it comes to its early dealings with our Indigenous people, to the point where society can be perceived as being divided into us and them. The Ngaut Ngaut Cultural Tour goes a long way to breaking down those divisions and building understanding of the importance of Aboriginal culture, history and connection to country.

Join me for a short, but fascinating stroll on the banks of the Murray River.

What Is It?

• The Ngaut Ngaut Conservation Park is found on the traditional lands of the Nganguraku people. It covers 49ha and incorporates a nice stretch of the Murray River and its surrounds.
• Members of the Nganguraku mob, Ivy and Sam, offer a number of cultural tours on the site including for school children, tour groups who poke along the river on paddle steamers, night tours, and private tours like the one we were on.
• Our visit took us along the edge of the riverbank, through ancient campsites, and passed many rock art/carvings along the way.

• After some scene setting and background on the site, Sam led us along the edge of the steep riverbank to the Men’s Camp. While all the Aboriginal people lived together for the majority of the time, a separate men’s camp was established so that when the men returned from late night hunting, they did not disturb the women and children.
• I couldn’t believe how small the area was, backed by tall sandstone cliffs, and it was on these cliffs where the stories were told. If you looked closely, you could see that the cliffs were decorated with all sorts of carvings of the moon, telling of travels to corroboree grounds, depictions of the Elders of the mob, and showing examples of all the good things to eat in the area such as estuary dolphins. Interestingly, the construction of locks and barrages by white man changed the flow of salty water up the Murray River from the sea and dolphins haven’t been seen in the area since that time.

• The Women’s Camp covers a significantly larger to be comfortable for the remainder of the tribe to sleep and as a general ‘living’ area. Again, the walls are covered with carvings which represent the menu of the region – turtles, fish, yabbies etc. There are also multiple representations of the ‘sun’ (as opposed to the moon carvings in the men’s camp). It appears that the sun = women = gathering, while the moon = men = hunting. Who knew?
• The Women’s Camp was also an important archaeological dig. From 1929 excavations were undertaken by historians from the South Australian Museum, excavating to a depth of 7m. At this depth, carbon dating of finds revealed remains dating from 5,000 years ago. In the 1980’s, the Elders of the region said “Enough!” and all excavations were halted and filled in again. The remains of past Elders were returned to the site and re-interred in their traditional grounds. This means it is even more important to show respect when you visit the site.

Where is It?

• Kroehn’s Landing Road, off Hunter Road Nildottie South/Walker Flat, South Australia.
• The tour site is only about 50m long, adjacent to the Murray River and is accessible via wooden boardwalks and platforms.

When To Go?

• The area is open all year and tours are held on various days and times, and can be customised to suit.
• The site is very open and exposed to the elements. Hopefully when you visit it will be a beautiful day or evening. Take umbrellas etc if the weather is looking damp or exceptionally hot.
• Our private tour went for about 2hours.

What Does it Cost? The excursion cost $50pp.

How to Get There? There is no public transport in the region, so your own car/vehicle is essential. Depending on the direction you are coming from you may need to access the car ferry across the Murray River at Walker Flat. Another special experience!

Who Is This Place For?

• If you are open to learning something new, this tour is for everyone.
• They do run specific and customised tours for children and school groups. I think most children would enjoy being in this outdoor classroom and art gallery.
• The site, while only small, does include steps, stairs and some uneven ground. It may not be the easiest place to navigate for people with mobility issues.

General Comments

• There is something about being outdoors that opens your heart and mind to new experiences, and as I mentioned above, this area is the best classroom and place to learn. You have beautiful views over the Murray River and you are sitting/standing under regal River Red Gum trees. Just do your best to ignore the noise and doof doof music emanating from any boats and campers on the other side of the river, to focus on the intriguing Aboriginal stories.
• Sadly, Ivy – one of the traditional owners of the region – advised us that some people from her own tribe have lodged a Native Title Claim over her family’s country, which freezes all the plans she and her family had for the area. Apparently, Ivy’s family group received a $1million grant to build an interpretive centre, bush tucker café and keeping place for the Elders. All of this is on hold indefinitely until the Claim is resolved.

• Happily, this family remains committed to the sharing their stories and the younger generation are involved in the presentation too. Ivy was very philosophical about the future of the site, knowing their connection to their country can never be over-ruled or eliminated. She also believes that tours like these are important to the reconciliation process as we learn from each other and share stories. While so many bad things and much sadness has occurred in the past, she wants us all to walk together into the future. Wonderful sentiments.
• The Ngaut Ngaut Aboriginal tour is definitely worthwhile to sit quietly in nature and thousands upon thousands of years of Aboriginal history.

Which history tour really resonated with you?

**Please note: the information contained above was provided verbally by the local traditional owners and tour leaders. Accuracy of dates etc. may vary.

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