It has been a really hot Summer! And where I live, an incredibly dry one to boot. When the heat is oppressive, the desire to lace up my hiking boots evaporates along with any moisture in the air and I hanker for late-Autumn or Winter when hiking in the bush is a pretty comfortable pursuit.
But the urge to go for a decent walk got the better of me and I just had to find a trail that was manageable in the late Summer temperatures and beautiful at the same time.
The Tomaree Coastal Walk ticked all those boxes although I think I was a little overly optimistic (or naïve) when it came to the temperature.
The Tomaree Coastal Walk is a 27km trail that connects Shoal Bay to Birubi Beach, just above the city of Newcastle. It is located within Tomaree National Park, in the broader Port Stephens area and on Worimi Country. As it turned out my watch registered a much shorter walk – just 22km – so you can take your pick whether to walk it in one day or overnight along the way.
For once I was sensible and split the walk over two days and I’m very glad I did…
Day: 1
From: Shoal Bay To: One Mile Beach
Planned Distance: 18km Actual Distance: 15.7km (incl. 600m to caravan park)
Ascent: 347m Descent: 361m
Time: 4h05m
Rating: Grade 4
Terrain: Mostly wide fire trails, bush tracks, board walks and sandy beach (quite firm underfoot). A few stiff climbs across coastal ridges and promontories. Steps, stairs and rocky paths of coastal sandstone. Something for everyone.
Weather: Clear, hot and humid!
Stayed At: Ingenia Holidays One Mile Beach
General Comments:
- I didn’t realise that the first part of this walk didn’t actually take you to/through any of the hidden beaches (Zenith Beach, Wreck Beach, Box Beach). So, if you feel the need, visit Zenith Beach before you start and then choose which beaches you want to detour to along the way. The detours vary from 500m to 2km off the main trail.
- **Please note: very few beaches along this trail have any lifesavers and most are unpatrolled. They can also be very rough with dangerous currents and waves, so take care if you decide to swim or fish in these waters.
- The path works its way through thick bush and weaves up, down, around and over ridgelines. While you can’t always see the sea, you can hear it. It is a joy when the sparkling water of Fingal Bay is finally revealed in all its glory.
- I got going relatively early as the day was forecast to be 37°C – definitely NOT hiking weather for me. After I passed a lone trail runner, I had the entire track to myself. Just me and some melodic birdsong! Luxury!
- The Tomaree Coastal Walk is a truly gorgeous hike. You get teasing glimpses of the water through thick coastal scrub and then the views become more expansive – opening up to rocky cliffs, floating islands, bright white beaches, and blue, blue water that merges into emerald green.
- It’s all so different from home and hiking in the inland bush. Here the eucalypts are red/pink with the smoothest bark and their trunks twist, and grow in response to the coastal gales.
- The sounds are different too with whip birds cracking overhead and parrots relishing their breakfast of banksia cones.
- Waves crash on the shore then whisper and hush as the water retreats to the sea.
- Cicadas set up an incredible racket confirming that a scorcher of a day is on its way.
- Unfortunately, manmade sounds intrude with large airplanes taking off from the nearby Williamtown/Newcastle airport and there is no avoiding the usual traffic noise as the trail nears the more settled urban areas, and popular beaches.
- Only an hour into the walk I could already feel the heat building. This trail would be enjoyable and scenic at any time of the year, but I was rueing the fact that I didn’t start walking even early in the morning. The coastal humidity had me sweating buckets!
- Perhaps consider walking in Spring when all the native flowers would be at their best, plus you may catch sight of whales migrating back down to Antarctica.
- From Fingal Bay onwards, the walk was at its very best delivering sweeping water views as I climbed up to small headlands and descended down to rocky shelves.
- Even though I was absolutely loving every step of this track, the heat was getting to be unbearable (at only 1030am!!) and I was hanging out for my final beach walk – One Mile Beach – to arrive.
- Before One Mile Beach, I had been warned that I would be crossing Samurai Beach – a clothing optional beach! How can they do that under the relentless and scorching Aussie sun?? I hope they were wearing plenty of sunscreen everywhere!
- Eyes up and looking straight ahead, it was up and around the last headland, and it was a relief to see the surf club at the end of One Mile Beach with plenty of people doing what I should have been doing – swimming not hiking! Yes, definitely pack your swimming togs.
- I booked a basic cabin at Ingenia Holidays One Mile Beach for $165 for one night. It was simple and comfortable, and its air conditioning was absolute GOLD! They have plenty of caravan and camping sites too.
Top Tips for this Trail:
- Direction: I walked this path North to South and you could easily walk it in reverse. It made sense for me to do it this way as it meant that I had the morning sun mostly behind me, rather than having to squint into it as I progressed.
- Parking: There is a Tomaree Coastal Walk carpark at the very start of the walk. Just before the boom gates at the base of the Tomaree Headland, turn a sharp right and the road takes you up to a small clearing. Parking is not timed or ticketed (like all other carparks in this area) although as it is in a National Park, car access fees do apply. That didn’t seem to bother the ‘free campers’.
- Make sure you pack plenty of water and snacks as the trail doesn’t really take you past cafes etc until you get to Fingal Bay.
- A good hat and sunscreen are a must.
- It was only as I was mid-walk that I thought about the risk of snakes. Luckily, they stayed off the path and away from me, but maybe pack a snake bandage as part of your first aid kit to be on the safe side.
- There is mobile phone service available along the track although I wasn’t checking my phone very often or at all. 😊
- Wear whatever footwear is most comfortable for you. I would recommend a covered shoe, but you could easily get away with hiking sandals.
Time to put the feet up and relax for the rest of the day. Even though it was only a short walk, it was hot one.
See you on the trail tomorrow…
P.S. This would be another marvellous walk to do on a Monday with Jo…that’s if Jo gets tired of her own coastal views. 😊
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