Like many other travel addicts, Covid-19 put the kibosh on my best laid travel plans throughout 2020 and 2021. All through 2020 it felt like one cancellation after another including a stroll up to Everest Base Camp in Nepal and a long-awaited camino north, west, north and then south-west through Spain.
Now that both governments and media are saying it is safe to travel again (with a few precautions), it is time to get busy booking once more.
After much dithering, umming and aahhing, I have just booked my flights to Madrid, Spain and I am super-excited – itching to pull my backpack on right NOW!
My patience levels are going to get a serious workout though as I still have 79 sleeps before setting out on yet another +820km walk through Spain.
Here are the initial plans…
Timing:
- Start Day: Friday 19 May 2023, from Madrid, central Spain.
- Finish Day: Tuesday 20 June 2023, at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, north-west Spain.
- Walking Days: 31
- Rest Days: Two (Segovia and Oviedo)
Route:
Rather than a camino, I am calling this one a ‘camino combo’ as rather than just following one main path, I am joining three routes together, with little connecting sections. These include:
- Camino Madrid: north-west from Madrid for 12 days to join,
- Camino Frances: in a westerly direction for three days until Leon to join,
- Camino San Salvador: due north for five days until Oviedo, then
- Camino Primitivo: for eight days heading south-west towards Santiago de Compostela, and finally,
- A little cross country for two days on the Camino Verde, crossing the end of the Camino del Norte and then a ‘freelance’ day to reconnect with the Camino Frances and into Santiago de Compostela.
All that probably sounds like too much information if you are not into walking pilgrimage routes through Spain, but hopefully it will interest fellow camino addicts.
Why this route?:
It has been seven years since I walked my last camino and it appears that in that time, the popularity of walking in Spain has gone through the roof. Last year over 438,323 people walked into Santiago de Compostela on one of the many camino paths. Of course, pilgrim numbers dropped significantly during Covid lockdowns (only 54,144 walkers in 2020 and 178,912 in 2021), but they have now bounced back with a vengeance. The vast majority of those pilgrims stepped out on the Camino Frances, so I have tried to plan a route that avoids most of the Frances and basically, one that is a little less-travelled. We will see how successful I am with this theory come May this year.
That’s not to say that I have turned into some antisocial grumble bum and don’t enjoy meeting people. It is actually one of the highlights of walking any camino. I just don’t want to be part of the bed rush where a large number of people are making a bee-line for a smaller number of beds at the end of each walking day.
Distances:
- Total: around 827km, give a take a kilometre or two as I accidently take the scenic route.
- Daily Average: approximately 26km, quite civilised.
- Longest Day: 35km. Yes, that will be a long day.
- Shortest Day: 21km, easy peasy.
Terrain:
- Camino Madrid: I am expecting mixed terrain with a couple of stiff climbing days leading into the Sierra de Guadarrama to a maximum of 1,796m. Thankfully it will be downhill all the way to Segovia and then relatively flat as I get closer to the Frances.
- Camino San Salvador: Climbing, climbing, climbing. Hopefully by this stage I am super-fit and can take it all in my stride! Ever the Optimist. 😊
- Camino Primitivo: Mixed terrain with plenty of climbs thrown in just so I don’t rest of my laurels. I have seen a few YouTube clips and the scenery looks stunning with lush forested paths and misty mountains.
Weather:
- It will be late Spring in Spain so I am expecting lots of lushness, green and Spring blossoms. I imagine this will vary considerably as I move from the hotter/drier Madrid region to Asturias and Galicia where “the rain in Spain falls mainly on Galicia”.
- Camino Madrid: Based on historical weather data, I am expecting an average daily temperature of 10°C to 23°C with only a 20% chance of rain. That weather forecast is very appealing. I can put up with a lot of things when I walk, but wet weather really takes the shine off walking 30km. I have also seen photos of snow on the mountain range I must cross before Segovia, so I will need to pack for all seasons.
- Camino San Salvador: Again, based on historical weather data, I am expecting an average daily temperature of 10°C to 23°C with only a 17% chance of rain. I think this weather forecast is a little optimistic, especially up in the mountains.
- Camino Primitivo: And finally, based on historical weather data and similar to the other stages, I am expecting an average daily temperature of 10°C to 20°C with only a 20% chance of rain. Hmmm, that percentage of rain sounds unrealistically low, especially for Galicia. Maybe it will only rain at night time?
- Layer dressing is going to be important on this trip as it could get pretty chilly overnight up in the various mountain ranges and their albergues. Even though I will be staying in albergues/hostels not camping, not all places provide blankets, especially after Covid and its extensive hygiene requirements. I understand that Covid really impacted the albergues and many closed, some permanently. I expect I will need to supplement albergue accommodation with a few nights in small hotels and pensiones.
Maps, Guides & Resources:
- As always, I have been having great fun reading and researching the path on a large variety of forums and websites.
- Trepidatious Traveller: Maggie walked this same path combination in 2017. She is a font of knowledge and inspiration.
- Camino de Santiago Forum: This forum is excellent for connecting to people who have walked or are walking LIVE on the path. Everyone is very supportive and happy to share their knowledge and experience.
- Gronze: Although in Spanish, this site has excellent up-to-date information and maps. HERE
- Rutas A Santiago: Same comment as previous point. HERE
- Apps: I would like to use apps again after my successful experience with this technology through Italy in 2018. At this stage I am yet to decide which one will serve me best. Do you have any recommendations?
Getting There/Away:
- British Airways: Although I vowed and declared I would never fly British Airways again after a disastrous and stressful experience with them connecting to my Camino Portuguese in 2016, I have weakened and given them another try. I can’t believe how expensive it is to fly to Europe these days and I am paying over $1,000 more than I paid for my aborted camino in 2020. If only I had hung onto my Qatar Airways credit. We are always rich in hindsight! I have noticed that accommodation has also dramatically increased in cost. I guess they are all making up for lost time
- Internal Transport: Other than on foot, I plan to connect from Santiago de Compostela to Madrid on an Iberia flight although a train trip is also tempting.
That’s about it for now. You can be guaranteed you will be hearing a lot more camino chatter from me over the next few months. And I welcome your advice and information if you have walked any or all of these paths.
Buen Camino Everyone.
#caminodesantiago #buencamino #pilgrimpath #caminomadrid #caminofrances #santiagodecompostela #pilgrimage #longdistancewalking #caminosansalvador #caminoprimitivo
Life...one big adventure 
This sounds great. It’s a long trek, and will be worth it.
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I hope so! A fair bit of training to be completed before then! 🥾🥾🥾
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Yessss! Great to hear this all coming to fruition!!! So excited for you, friend!!Cannot wait to read about when the time comes!!! 😊😊😊
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You will be walking with me virtually in preparation for the day that we get to stroll together in person! 😀🍷🥾
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🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡
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Sounds awesome! Can’t wait to read about it! I know what you mean about flights to Europe going up, we’ve been running into the same thing lately. Maggie
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I am so excited about this trip, but have to say you have really tantalized and inspired me with all your South American adventures. Happy booking!
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Next year South America for you!
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Actually, it’s North America… on a bike! 🚵♀️🚵♂️🚲🚴♀️
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Oh yay! Are you coming through Calgary? Road bike I assume but I could take you on some great mountain bike trails.
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No, actually we are planning to ride the length of the Mississippi River. I think it starts not far from the Canadian border so we will be close to you!
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Oh too bad, no we’re very far from the Mississipi, we’re in the west.
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You could always join us for a bit or all?
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Maybe…
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🚴♀️🚲😁
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If only I could like this post 100 times!! You really mix it up, hey Mel! Camino Combo … I love it and am now counting the 79 days with you 😉.
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Yay! I have another virtual walking companion. An online Camino family. 💞🍷
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Wow what an adventure. Only 2 rest days!
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I will make them count!😉💤
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Life is definitely one big adventure for you Mel. I could not walk such long distances now, but I shall happily follow you on your journey and I wish you all the luck in the world finding good weather and sheltered accommodation. Will you be doing this on your own?
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Thanks for your support. Yes, setting out on my own at this stage, but hoping to meet lots of new friends. Thanks for the blue skies and fair winds.🌞🌞🌞
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You are well prepared. So exciting ! I will follow you from home… A friend of mine did the Camino Primitivo last September. her first Camino. She loved it …
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Hopefully I will give you itchy feet to get out walking again? 🥾🥾🥾
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hi again ! itching feet… oh yes they are but sometimes life gets in the way…and we need to be patient. Would you answer those questions for me? What do you gain every time you walk a Camino? Do you leave for Spain with a certain purpose ? Do you get what you are looking for after 800km ? Of course the Camino had a real impact for me and I needed to share my experience in a book (and also with my blogs) but going back would and will be another challenge… comparing the different adventures, having expectations ( which I try to avoid now in my normal life)… anyway, feel free to answer my questions when you have time.. Thanks.
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Hmm, you have thrown down the gauntlet! I will have to put my thinking cap on.🤔🤔🤔
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Mel, I am feeling the excitement vibes and really looking forward to hearing all about it and the preparations. Well done, you. I am seriously impressed and perhaps one day I will use your information to set out and do one myself. Anyway, all the very best for an inspirational trip.
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Thanks Suzanne. No doubt, I will feel a bit rusty, not having walked in Spain since 2016, but I will quickly ‘get with the programme’. Thanks for your travel wishes, Melx
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Yay! I’m so excited for you, Mel! We, too, are reviving COVID-killed travel this summer when we go to France and Andorra. It’ll feel great to get back to Europe. I’m looking forward to reading about your adventures and marveling over the distances you cover.
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And I will be following your great European Vacation (National Lampoon?) with interest too. Such a shame our paths won’t cross, but look out 2024! 😁 Au revoir!
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National Lampoon is not too far off where our travels are concerned.
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😆😁😜
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Yey can’t wait to follow along. Good luck with the training
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Many thanks. I will keep you posted. I 😁
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Great planning. Best wishes on your adventure and we look forward to your post. Cheers!
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I hope it will give you itchy feet and maybe bring your Spain plans forward a bit??
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It could happen!
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I will watch with interest! 🙂
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Beyond excited to follow along! Counting down ….
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Thanks so much. It will be great to have you walking with me in spirit. Melx
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