Day: 13
Date: Thursday, 1 June 2023.
From: Grajal de Campos To: El Burgo Ranero
Distance (Planned): 23.7km Actual (Garmin): 25.4km
Progress: 358/801km
Start Walking: 0558 End: 1125am Time: 5h26m
Ascent: 130m Descent: 100m
Terrain: Said a final goodbye to the wheat fields and hello to the pilgrim highway.
Weather: Cool and clear.
Stayed At: Albergue Municipal Domenica Laffi – €10 donativo
General Comments:
- I’m not afraid to say I was nervous starting this morning as I really didn’t know what I would find when I reached Sahagun, intersecting with the very popular Camino Frances path. So much coverage has been given to the Camino Frances of late, showing hoards of people streaming along the track, I was worried it would be a total culture shock to me after these past weeks of almost complete solitude.
- As soon as I hit the edge of Sahagun, I headed into the first bar I found for a coffee and tortilla to fortify myself for the onslaught. With loins suitably girded, I stepped out onto the street to join the throng, except there wasn’t one. Not. One. Walker. Had I missed the rush? Was I ahead of the rush for the day? Who knew?
- So, feeling like Nigel-No-Friends, I set out in the direction of Leon (heading due West now, no longer due North). I am not using any apps on this Frances section of the walk and have some 10-year-old paper maps as a general guide. I put my faith in the roadside signage and luckily there was a tonne of signage to keep me on the straight and narrow.
- A thing that shocked me in 2013, and remains the same today, is the amount of graffiti on the camino signs, including spray paint, texta markings, and stickers. Who walks the Camino with those sorts of things in their backpacks? I am completely stumped and think that this sort of vandalism conflicts with the philosophy of the camino, but then everyone walks with different intentions.
- It turned out to be pleasant and easy walking under some wonderful plane trees. I can’t remember if there were young trees planted when we strolled by in 2013, but they have certainly grown into gorgeous trees providing much welcomed shade. I could walk under those shady trees for days.
- By far the most exciting thing that happened to me all day was the fact that this albergue has a washing machine that actually works. I washed absolutely everything I owned, except the clothes I am sitting in now, and I can’t wait to pull on my fresh and newly-sweet smelling clothes tomorrow morning. Sometimes it is the simple things in life that make us happiest.
Top Tips:
- This municipal albergue in El Burgo Ranero is very comfortable. It is popular though, and despite not supposedly opening until 1pm, it was already a quarter full by the time I arrived at 1130am. So if you plan to stay here, I would get walking early in the morning.
Buen Camino.
Life...one big adventure 
Thanks so much. Smelling much fresher this morning.
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Enjoy the spring in your step!
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Doneski!
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💃
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🦸♀️🦸♀️🦸♀️
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I think you were too early for the crowds in Sahagun 😉 … always good to be a step ahead! The trees have definitely grown – they weren’t so lush when we walked there! Oh, the little things – like an early morning cup of coffee, a washing machine and clothes that smell good – these were some of my favourite things on the Camino 🙂 . Buen Camino Mel
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It is 530am in the albergue and everyone is up, banging about!!! Downtimes have changed? The snoring remains the same though.🤣
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Oh, the snoring (that I don’t miss 🙃. Enjoy walking today!
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Buen Camino, Mel, and yes the small things in life are supremo 😉
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💜
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I finally watched the movie ‘The Way’ the other day and while I enjoyed it I have to say it did not inspire me in the least to walk the Camino Santiago. All those people walking the same road…. Not for me. So I hope you continue to have low key days with just a few fellow pilgrims to keep you company.
I wear my rain gear so I can wash absolutely every piece of clothing. 😁 Nothing better than pulling on clean fresh clothes.
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I hear you, but for me the people you meet along the way and the friendships you make are one of the true highlights of walking a Camino. Yes, it can be busy out there on the path, but for me that is a small price to pay for all the history and culture.
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I am still in awe of your journey Mel – this looks like a nice and quiet section, and always nice to have some days on a walk that have a bit of shade and aren’t too hilly! Buen Camino 🙂
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Buen Camino to you if you are off wandering somewhere!
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