Day: 14
Date: Friday, 2 June 2023.
From: El Burgo Ranero To: Valdelafuente
Distance (Planned): 33.8km Actual (Garmin): 31.7km
Progress: 390/801km
Start Walking: 0555 End: 103pm Time: 7h8m
Ascent: 92m Descent: 131m
Terrain: More undulating pilgrim paths next to roads.
Weather: Clear and hot.
Stayed At: Hotel Real Camino – €44.
General Comments:
- Ah, all the albergue memories came flooding back last night as we tried to settle into sleep. There were the whisperers, the plastic rustlers, the heavy-footed thundering up and down the stairs, and of course, the full orchestra of snorers and farters. Initially, I was worried about the four flamboyant Italians sharing my room, but I should have been far more concerned about the lady in the bunk above me who delivered the most accurate and loud chainsaw impressions on and off all night. Oh well, what can you expect when you’re only paying €10 a night?
- I gave up at about 5am and, ever so quietly, picked up my gear and tiptoed out of the room, down the stairs and into the common area where I thought I could quietly pack and get ready for the day. Imagine my surprise when about 10 minutes later it sounded like a small herd of elephants had awoken above me and people streamed from their rooms with backpacks, breakfast supplies, and bathroom bags. There seemed to be little attempt to do this quietly and I can’t help remembering when we walked the Camino Frances in 2013, how it was frowned upon if anyone made a move before 630am. How times have changed.
- It was a bit of a carbon copy day of yesterday. More long lines of Plane trees planted to provide shade for the path, more views over the surrounding flat paddocks and crops, and yet today it actually felt more like the Camino Frances with pilgrims walking ahead of me and pilgrims behind.
- My coffee intake continues to be irregular as too few bars and cafes are open early enough in the day to satisfy my addiction. The first stretch this morning was about 13km and I was really hanging out for coffee at the first village we walked into. No joy.
- Instead, a further 6km took us to the next town and I scored big time with coffee available in a patisserie and I wasn’t going to look that gift horse in the mouth. I am struggling a bit to make sure I am consuming enough calories to fuel each day and at this morning’s break, I played catch up.
- I also got to sit and chat with two other pilgrims who were pushing on for a big distance – walking straight into Leon. One of them was Deb from Darwin and we had a great chat and walked the next 6 kilometres together chatting merrily all the way. It’s surprising how quickly the kilometres whiz by when you have company.
- As you will have seen above, I have upgraded again to a hotel tonight as I rejigged my initial plan to get as close to Leon as possible. Tomorrow I start the first stage of the Camino san Salvador which involves heading up into the mountains North of Leon. I had originally planned a 31km day tomorrow and realised that may not be the smartest thing to do. After a good 10 days of walking flatlands, I’m not sure how my legs will handle constant ascents and descents. Time will tell.
Top Tips:
- No real top tips today other than to not get your heart set on coffee in the first village you walk through. You are sure to be disappointed.
Buen Camino
Life...one big adventure 
Holy Moley! I’d last one night like that one and be in a single room. 😂 It happened to us in Pamplona last October. People up at 6 in and out, lights on and FULL chatter outside the rooms. People didn’t even close the door when they left the room. 🙈 We didn’t have to be up till later as it was our last day. I actually couldn’t believe the lack of consideration. Oh well as you say €10 a night! Lol etiquette, where did it go?
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I hear you. Not everyone is an early riser or needs to put a big day in on the path. A little consideration goes a long way, but maybe it’s a sign of the ‘all about me’ attitude that dominates today?
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I would like to think that pilgrims on Caminos would be the last bastion of good manners and consideration but I guess not. That is sad!! 💥
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I suspect many who walk it these days don’t understand the pilgrim aspect and, given its popularity, are just doing it in order to say they’ve done it. 😏
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Agreed. Another box ticked and the focus is What they can get out of it, rather than what they learn.
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I think those times have passed, Lue. Or maybe I just had a one-off experience? I’d like to think that the old culture and philosophy still exists, but maybe I’m kidding myself.
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Nice to have a bit of company on the trail, Mel. Not quite so good at night.
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😂 – beggars can’t be choosers!
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Gosh I would die without a coffee first thing. It’s the one thing I have to get me going in the morning. And I definitely have to have my own room.
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Absence makes the heart grow fonder and I REALLY enjoy that coffee when I get it! ☕☕☕
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Hello there! I’ve finally caught up with you after arriving home yesterday from my own adventure. Looks like you are going well. How are the blisters? No more mention so hoping all healed. I will be reading every day now so know I am one of your companions along the way. Go Mel xx
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Thanks Kerry. Glad to hear you are home safely and can’t wait to hear about your trip. I’m sure it was amazing. Just one problematic heel left, but it’s on the mend and not slowing me down. Have a great day, Melxx
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Chatting does make the kms go much faster. Even better is someone from downunder who understands the Aussie humour and quirkiness without explanation. There are portable coffee makers like Aeropress for hiking though that isn’t helpful for you. Then there is the issue of carrying it and coffee. I would make room 🙂 Buen Camino.
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Spoken like a true coffee devotee!☕☕😁
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I’m with Suzanne. I would not be able to leave coffee to chance. I’d rather carry the extra weight.
Glad you got to have some pleasant social contact for a stretch. That would have been a lift.
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Maybe I am not as addicted to caffeine as I thought? And that’s a good thing! 😊
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Here are some places I recognise 😊. Yes, albergue life is not for everyone (the camaraderie is lovely, but getting proper rest does not happen easily here)!
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True. Only one other pilgrim in my albergue tonight (so far). I hope he doesn’t mind my early start in the morning. 😁
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Well, at least you do it quietly 🤫.
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I try…
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