Camino Combo – Day 19 – Camino San Salvador

Day: 19

Date: Wednesday, 7 June 2023.

From: Pola de Lena               To: Oviedo

Distance (Planned): 32.6km      Actual (Garmin): 34.4km   Progress: 525/801km

Start Walking: 0559   End: 223pm

Time: 8h23m

Ascent: 604m           Descent: 665m

Terrain: Lots of hard surface walking next to highways or train tracks. Supposedly flatter today, but they were lying.

Weather: Sprinkled rain all day and 100% humidity. Ugh!

Stayed At: Green Hostel  – €31.40.

A hazy old day over the valleys…

General Comments:

  • Today was a bit of a bugger really. Nothing seemed to go right and certainly nothing seemed to come easily. Unfortunately it appears I have developed a bit of a head cold, so I spent most of last night trying not to cough and disturb the other pilgrims. Needless to say I started the day short of quite a few hours sleep and this translated into doughy legs and a bit of a reduced sense of humour.
  • I did pretty well to get out of town without getting lost in the early morning dark. I wanted to get an extra early start today because of the long distance that I had to cover.
We are back in horrero (spelling?) country. The old way grain and crops were stored above the mice.
  • All was going smoothly until I came to an intersection with yellow arrows pointing into two opposite directions. I read my paper notes and I checked the app and by the time I had done that aa Spanish  pilgrim had turned up. He was confident that we should go right and I followed him as he was so confident. Within minutes we started to climb and we were definitely heading off track even though that was the direction the yellow arrows wanted us to go. He decided that No, No, No, No we were going the wrong way so we backtracked and found the correct path, over the highway, and over the river.
  •  My Spanish friend then spent the next two hours talking at me in rapid fire Spanish and critiquing the way I was walking and the weight of my pack. He told me I was walking too fast and that I should slow down and I tried to explain to him that I need to walk at my speed and he should walk at his own. With a lack of sleep I admit to being a bit short with him even though I am sure his intentions were honorable. After a coffee break I headed off and he maintained his more leisurely pace as he was only going 14km today where as I was going the full 32km.
The Cider Man pours his cider from a great height.
  • Another testing feature of today was the constant sprinkling rain and what felt like 100% humidity. Naturally I’m glad that it wasn’t proper rain as that would have made the path even more unpleasant, but the stickiness of the moisture in the air zapped any energy that I may have possessed.
  •  Today’s route was supposed to feature only two ascents, however they snuck a couple of extra ones in right at the very end when I least needed it. Again the language was getting a tad colourful as I could see Oviedo in the distance and yet still had valleys to descend and hills to climb out of those valleys.
They were lying…
  •  Tomorrow is a rest day and I’m looking forward just to kicking back, relaxing and resting the weary legs and mangled feet. They certainly have earned a very quiet, non-walking day.
  • Sorry, not much of a day for taking photos today.

Top Tips:

  • Be careful heading into Oviedo as the Pilgrim signage is great, until it’s not. The arrows and bronze shells inlaid into the footpath completely disappeared and I had to revert to asking people where the Cathedral was. So, my top tip is to learn enough Spanish so that you can ask some basic questions and understand the answers.
  • If you fill the bidet with ice, you can keep your beer cold.
Oviedo Cathedral on a grey old day.

Buen Camino.

32 thoughts on “Camino Combo – Day 19 – Camino San Salvador

  1. It’s a long day on the road – distance and time wise. I understand why it was a difficult day – you get those days when nothing wants to “fall into place”. Then you really just want to get the day over with. Rest well tomorrow – you deserve it! I also hope the cold is over soon … drink lots of that Spanish freshly squeezed orange juice!
    Oh, and it’s ‘hórreos’ (I had to double check myself now) … such a familiar sight on the Camino.

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    1. Thanks for correcting my spelling. I knew there were lots of r’s and a few o’s in there somewhere. About to take some cold medicine and call it a night. Now, if I could only get the Church bells to stop tolling the hour….🙄😴

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Awww Mel! What a testy day. Glad for you that tomorrow is rest day. I imagine it will be so nice to take a load off and have the day to get sorted before the your next adventure. Hope the cold sorts itself out with a good sleep and day of chill. Wet and dusty roads has the right advice order up on the zumo de naranjas!

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Yep, a whole lot of R & R will work wonders. Thanks for your support. X

      Liked by 1 person

  3. A rest day is going to feel pretty weird!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Maybe, but I’m willing to risk it! 😊

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  4. Mel, I am in awe of you completing that day with a head cold. I have the flu at the moment so I will stop my moaning LOL. Seeing flowers are always a cheerful sight. Sit in the sun and drink lots of fluids 🙂 x

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks, Suzanne. A decent sleep last night and there will be more of that today, I think. It’s still grey and raining on and off, so I will be pretty much confined indoors. Not such a bad thing …

      Liked by 1 person

      1. It’s not a bad thing. Take care of yourself, Mel 🌼

        Liked by 1 person

  5. Great tip about the bidet. (I literally LOLed.) Just don’t try it in Japan where the bidet is incorporated into the loo….

    I love that after such a crap day you can still keep us updated and include some humour. What a massive day. I’m glad you have a rest day. Take it easy and I hope you feel better soon.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks, H. As you well know, it’s not always sunshine and roses out there on the trail, but it’s a First World problem.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Was watching a video by Miranda Goes Outside of 9 backpacking myths and number 6 was “Backpacking is always fun.” She talked about “Type 2 Fun” where you can have a shit time actually doing it but on looking back you think it was great. 🙄😁

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        1. Kinda like me and running. 😄

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  6. I guess a bad day has to happen & at least it was just before a rest day. Enjoy your day off & take care my friend xx

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks, Kerry. I am looking forward to just chilling today and reading, of course. Melx

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  7. A rest day, that’s awesome. Hang in there.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Ta, and Yep, after 15 days walking, a rest day is going to be fantastic.

      Liked by 1 person

  8. So sorry you had a rough day Mel, and also that you have a cold. Your photos are all really beautiful. Hope your rest day helps you feel ready to continue your journey. Lol June

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks for thinking of me and your wishes, June. It is much appreciated. Melxx

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  9. A rest day is the least of what you deserve after reading that! Enjoy the break & take care x

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks, Di. Lots of rest, relaxation and chocolate today. Mel xx

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      1. Finally something I can relate to 🙂

        Liked by 1 person

  10. Hope you feel better soon. Hopfully a rest day will help with that.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. And of course there is also the bonus of getting all the washing done on a rest day. Heaven!😉

      Liked by 1 person

  11. Oh, I just hate those mornings when everything goes wrong. Sometimes they turn into days when everything goes wrong, and sometimes they don’t. Sounds like it didn’t go so well for you. I’d tell you to recover with a rest day, but you’re waaaay ahead of me. 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Not every day out on the path is a great day unfortunately, but there’s always tomorrow…

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