Camino Combo – Day 20 – Camino Primitivo

Day: 20

Date: Friday, 9 June 2023.

From: Oviedo  To: San Juan de Villapanada

Distance (Planned): 32km      Actual (Garmin): 31.6km Progress: 557/801km

Start Walking: 0546   End: 130pm

Time: 7h42m

Ascent: 656m           Descent: 692m

Terrain: Undulating hills, quiet country roads, and deep, damp forest paths.

Weather: Showery, very humid and sticky.

Stayed At: Albergue Municipal San Juan de Villapanada – €7.50.

Signage from outside the Cathedral.

General Comments:

  • It was so lush and green today it almost hurt my eyes. When I remember the first stage of this Camino Combo, on the Camino Madrid and those endless ripening wheat fields, you could not imagine more of a contrast.
  • It was really pretty walking today. Yes, there were a few steep ups and downs, but I should be used to them by now. The views over the valleys and their lingering mists, really created a beautiful atmosphere.
  • Unfortunately the Weather Gods finally abandoned me and I had to break out the rain poncho a couple of times. It wasn’t super-heavy rain, but I didn’t want to get my gear too wet. Also unfortunately, the constant cloud, mist, and showers really ramped up the humidity levels. Sometimes I wondered whether I was wetter under the poncho, than outside it.
  • As you can see from the photos, green is the common theme in this landscape. I loved that every now and then, I would get a strong waft of eucalyptus scent from the patches of gum trees growing wild. They are really loving this damp climate and I suspect, may be considered a weed.
  • Tonight’s albergue is about 800 metres off the actual camino path. While I don’t really need the additional distance in the form of a detour, it made sense to stay here and end today’s stage. It has gorgeous views over the town of Grado I  walked through earlier today.
  • I thought I would have the place to myself, but 4 people just walked in nigh on 4pm. It will be nice to have company tonight. I also met a few other pilgrims out walking today and it seems we are all breaking up our walking stages at different points and that’s a good thing.
  • Thanks to all your good and well wishes, I had a very successful rest day in Oviedo and I feel like I have shaken the worst of my cold. Thanks for thinking of me.

Top Tips:

  • Getting out of Oviedo is a commitment! While there is good signage in the form of bronze shells inlaid into the footpath, you still need to have your wits about you. It took me nearly 50 minutes to get clear of the suburbs and out into the countryside. I just wanted to give you a heads up that it is a bit of a long haul getting away.
  • Be careful when leaving the Cathedral, that you have selected the right route! One goes North to the coast and the other is the Primitivo.
  • The waymarking and signage today have been excellent and I haven’t looked at the Buen Camino app once.
Grado nestled at the bottom of the valley.

Buen Camino.

23 thoughts on “Camino Combo – Day 20 – Camino Primitivo

  1. Love the low lying cloud shots, Mel. Sorry about the cold. I’m so impressed with the distances you’re covering. Oviedo is allegedly beautiful, but this probably wasn’t the time for it.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yes, it did look an interesting city, but I just didn’t have the heart or the head for it this time.

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  2. Love the mist in the valley shot, so many layers. You are making excellent progress.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. They certainly do ‘mist’ well in Asturias! 😊

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Pretty misty here today too!

        Liked by 1 person

          1. Yes, it’s the one coming up from the Azores.

            Liked by 1 person

          2. Hopefully it will just keep going and pass us by… or run out of puff.

            Liked by 1 person

  3. Instead of repeating what Jo and Jude wrote, as I was going to write something similar, I nodded in agreement. Buen Camino, Mel.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. It’s good to hear your cold is better. And what a beautiful road – the mist that hangs over the green field makes it picture-perfect. Yes, when it’s so humid and rainy, you don’t know if it’s better with or without the poncho! Glad you have company tonight. Buen Camino Mel 👣.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. More rain today. I think I will stop putting my poncho away!

      Liked by 1 person

  5. Missed you Mel! Glad you had you’re quiet day and that you’re back firing in all cylinders. Primitivo! Yi-ha. Excited.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. It’s a stunner. Hard work, but beautiful.

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  6. Looks like fabulous revitalising scenery today. So glad to hear you are feeling better and refreshed.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hmmm, as I’m slogging up yet another hill, I am feeling less than revitalized, that’s for sure! 😆

      Liked by 1 person

  7. Beautiful shot of the hills and low-lying mountains peeking through the mists. All that green must have been refreshing for you eyes.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yes, I am still not used to it being so consistently green. Maybe by the time I get to Santiago it will be a bit more ho hum.

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  8. Oh wow, that shot with the mist and the hills is just STUNNING. What a beautiful section of the Camino

    Liked by 2 people

    1. There is definitely NO shortage of mist and/or fog!

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