Day: 21
Date: Saturday, 10 June 2023.
From: San Juan de Villapanada To: Bodenaya
Distance (Planned): 23km Actual (Garmin): 28.4km Progress: 585/801km
Start Walking: 0551 End: 123pm
Time: 7h32m
Ascent: 944m Descent: 591m
Terrain: Yep, more of the same. Big ups. Big downs.
Weather: Clear to start and then horrendous humidity. Plus rain.
Stayed At: Albergue de Bodenaya – €10 donativo.
General Comments:
- The Albergue last night turned into a regular United Nations. I thought I would have the place to myself until some serious rain set in and washed another 8 pilgrims off the main path and down the 800 metre detour. It was very pleasant chatting with everyone and thankfully there were very few snorers to disturb the peace.
- It dawned on me last night that I was probably the oldest person in the albergue. How did that happen? While the discovery was a little off-putting to start with, after chatting with a few people, I understood that I had walked as much or more kilometres than them that day. So, while I can hold my own and am still enjoying myself, I will just keep on walking.
- After another day of climbing and descending, I have decided that this path, while very beautiful, may not be for everyone. And I wonder how many people have been caught out in the past thinking this would just be another beautiful stroll in the countryside. While it is certainly beautiful, it is far from a stroll. A wiser person than me would have planned their stages better to take into consideration the terrain rather than being driven by purely distance.
Top Tips:
- I realise everyone is different and their metabolism is completely different, but can I recommend that if you decide to do this Camino, that you invest in a Camelbak or some sort of water bladder system? I guess it will depend on the time of year that you walk, but at the moment I just can’t seem to take in all the water the weather and humidity is demanding. I think I am up to about 5 litres of water so far today and it is only late afternoon. I know I am a bit weird though when it comes to water consumption.
- If you do decide to walk the Camino Primitivo, please try to organise your stages so that you can stay at the Albergue Bodenaya. It’s an absolute classic and is completely donativo (donation driven) which includes a communal dinner and they will do all your washing and drying if you put it in their magic basket. They certainly know the way to a pilgrim’s heart.
Buen Camino.
Life...one big adventure 
Fun fact: That church actually is an albergue that is supposedly haunted. I heard something weird the night I said there. I’m glad you got to stay in Bodenaya as it’s one of the best albergues out there.
¡Buen Camino!
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Thanks Pablo. When I walked past it, there was a guy saddling up his horse. He has now arrived in Bodenaya and is riding the Primitivo. How cool is that?
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I think we’ve got your fog! And humidity! I hate this kind of weather and would not be a happy walker. Sounds like you are still enjoying it though and you are ploughing through those kilometres.
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I am MORE than happy to share the humidity with my nearest and dearest! Ugh! Isn’t it unpleasant?
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Horrible! My hair gets all sweaty! Every year I swear to have it cropped very short.
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I can highly recommend it!
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Oh, can I just say how beautiful your photos are today Mel – it’s pure Camino! A magic basket at a donativo – that’s my kind of albergue! The way sounds a bit challenging, but it looks like you’re winning over there in Spain 🌟.
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Thanks so much for the lovely feedback. It’s hard to stop taking photos. 📸📸📸
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Like a tropical rainforest. So, pleased you were spoilt at your albergue makes for a happier journey. Buen Camino, Mel.
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Thanks, Suzanne. There are so many special places and people on the Camino.
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Age is just a number, Mel. It’s what you do with it that counts. You keep on showing those young whippersnappers what powerhouses post- menopausal women are. 😁
Stunning photos today. I love the sound of a magic basket.
Learnt that “check the terrain” rule on the GNW. I don’t have much in the way of hills on the WTY but there’s sand so I’ve tried to take that into account in calculating my distances.
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Thanks, cheer squad. Obviously I have a lot to learn from you, Grasshopper!
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Marching onwards, Mel. Regrets, I’ve had a few, but then again, too few to mention… 🤔❤️
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You should turn that into a song! 🎶🎵
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I’ve been caught with really hot weather and not being able to drink enough water to stay hydrated. I found that electrolyte drinks helped tremendously. Just in case you hadn’t already thought of that.
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Absolutely. I never leave home without electrolytes. I turn into a limping, crampy mess otherwise. Thankfully a much less humid day today and the liquid intake was much more manageable. Ta
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Woah that fog is crazy, although nice you were able to speak with fellow walkers. The age thing, too right – it’s just a number and why shouldn’t you be there, walking just as they are 🙂
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and I am sure feeling my number today! A person must be nuts!
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Gorgeous day Mel. I always drink loads more along the camino. Lol my body loves me. I find the bladder so easy ,,, reaching for bottles and unscrew kids. Just suck as you walk! 😂 Although greg has found form cool clip on water bottle holders for TMB next week. I might borrow one for July. Will come back to your posts when I get to this camino stage.
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Yep, I’m an absolute bladder fan. Doesn’t that sound weird? 😆
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Ha ha no! My bladder isn’t a bladder fan … always so many stops. 😂😂
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Thank goodness there are a lot of trees and thick scrub on the Primitivo,!
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🤣😉
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I’m not surprised that you walked as much as or more than the young folks. You’re badass, Mel!
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And I am assuming being a badass is a good thing?😁
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Verrrry good!
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Nice!
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