Day: 22
Date: Sunday, 11 June 2023.
From: Bodenaya To: Campiello
Distance (Planned): 24.5km Actual (Garmin): 25.7km Progress: 611/801km
Start Walking: 0549 End: 1206pm Time: 6h17m
Ascent: 665m Descent: 687m
Terrain: 45% up, 45% down, 10% happily level.
Weather: Clear and fresh to start. More showers in the afternoon.
Stayed At: Albergue Casa Ricardo – €13.
General Comments:
- More misty photos today and more paths through thick, lush forest. I think I see a theme emerging here… The pattern of constant climbs and descents also continues.
- I was thinking as I was slogging up yet another hill this morning, that I completely underestimated the Camino Primitivo. Yes, I knew it was hilly, but for some weird reason, I thought there would be more variety – like on the Camino Frances. Don’t ask me where I got that mistaken notion from. That’s not to say I am not enjoying all the beautiful scenery, it’s just that little bit harder waking up each day knowing you have another tough day ahead.
- Like many other days, my stroll this morning was accompanied by the sound of cowbells. It seems that most cattle are kept in sheds, but the lucky few who get some fresh air and sunshine pay for the privilege by wearing a large (or small) bell around their necks. Horses and sheep may also be subjected to a similar indignity. From my perspective, it is incredibly atmospheric and it’s nice to hear the chiming as they graze.
- Many more people out walking today including locals. It wasn’t unusual to have the entire path to yourself and then to walk around a corner and there would be a couple of pilgrims. I am enjoying seeing more people and so far I haven’t had any trouble securing a bed. I am trying to book a couple of days ahead and avoiding the popular towns. In the ‘old’ days, you could just walk into a place and be pretty much guaranteed a bed, especially if it was a reasonable hour. Not any more.
Top Tips:
- Guard dogs still seem to be popular in Spain and still want a piece of me as I walk past their territory. Needless to say I do that very quickly, all the while keeping one wary eye on them in case of a rearguard attack. They are not afraid to give chase, even when you are well off their property. Thank goodness for walking poles which act as an excellent equalizer when pointed in the dog’s direction.
- If you decide to end your stage at Campiello, I can highly recommend the Casa Ricardo Albergue. It is spottlessly clean and has fabulous facilities including a washing machine! Now if we can just do something about this thunderstorm…although I think my washing should dry under the verandah. Happy days.
Buen Camino
Life...one big adventure 
You already walked more than 600km … wow Mel 😮. I agree – the bells around cows’ necks are one of the most beautiful sounds to me. And delicious paella – nowhere does it taste better than in Spain on the Camino! Hope your washing gets dry 😉.
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Thanks so much. The rain has washed in a tonne more pilgrims so it is going to be a full house of damp clothes etc. I’m sure you remember that special smell!😆
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Oh yes, I do 😁. Thank you for making me feel better that I am here at home now and not on the Camino with you!
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😆😁🤣🙄
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Fantastic effort, sweetheart! I’m in awe of your achievements so far. Bravo ❤️❤️
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I am just not sure I agree with you after today…
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That sounds ominous. I’d better come and read 🤫❤️
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Yep, one of those days…
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I thank you sincerely for slogging up all those hills because I have to admit I am loving these photos more than the previous caminos. Gracias.
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I am glad to be of service…
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Wow Mel. Amazing! You are making huge progress. No stopping you. Beautiful scenery. Enjoy some company & good paella xx
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and a good lie down too, I think…
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Those views are incredible, and that Paella…yum!
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Definitely and definitely!
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You are an inspiration, Mel. In rural Portugal they use cowbells too. Love the sound and eating Paella 🙂 Buen Camino.
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Yep, lots of great memories on that day. Ta.
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Beautiful pics. What a great adventure you are on… for me this year it is only possible to follow what my friends are doing – walking in Portugal, Spain and France. I know I will try to go back again.
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The Camino always calls you. I wonder why it gets under your skin?
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yes… why is that ? for me it was an idea and then one day I was walking in Spain and then i knew I wanted to go again. Now it has been 4 years and with my books (English and French) I am still on the Camino and also I enjoy following friends who are there now. It is a special life experience that teaches us so many thing. It is good to finf out who we are in a different environment and meet tons of new people too. Some will be part of our life for some time and some will not. Take care. Enjoy each day, even the tough ones.
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It’s a terrible cliche, but it is life changing.
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