Day: 24
Date: Tuesday, 13 June 2023.
From: Berducedo To: Grandas de Salime
Distance (Planned): 20km Actual (Garmin): 21.3km Progress: 665/801km
Start Walking: 0616 End: 1151am Time: 5h34m
Ascent: 672m Descent: 1,005m
Terrain: Same, same, up, down, up.
Weather: Gloriously cool to start with the thickest of fog.
Stayed At: Albergue Casa Sanchez – €15.
General Comments:
- Do you realise that this time in a week, I will be done and dusted? All things being equal, I will have walked into Santiago de Compostela and stood in front of the Cathedral, finally understanding that the latest Camino adventure is over. I won’t labour the point as I still have 7 days of walking fun ahead of me, but it’s a bit surreal and my start day of 19 May seems years ago.
- Today started with the usual mists, which eventually changed to the thickest of dogs. Sometimes I could only see 50m in front of me and other pilgrims were just unformed blobs. The fog seemed to dampen everything, including the sound. There were a few birds twittering, but otherwise the whole landscape was wrapped in the fattest, softest white blanket.
- The landscape and vegetation really changed today. After a little stroll in a dark and muddy forest, if was out into the open, surrounded by low, scrubby heath-like shrubs. It must be very harsh country in the Winter.
- The Coffee Gods smiled on me and I managed to nab a coffee only after one hour of walking. I nearly walked past, but thought better of it as there are similarities between birds in hands and open bars. Enjoying my café americano and chocolate croissant, I overhead a conversation at the bar where a woman asked a man “so, how far are you running today?”. He replied, “50km”!!! Sure enough he jogged past me when I was about 4km further on and he was travelling light and fast. And you thought I was nuts!?
- The main geographic feature of today was a large dam (embalse). The fog blocked out any views until I had descended enough to see the long stretch of dark green water. Apparently it used to be for hydroelectricity, but now everything is in such a very poor state of repair, I doubt it is used for anything energy related.
Top Tips:
- La Mesa has a lovely, new albergue and coffee. If you want to walk a longer day past Berducedo, this place would be a good option.
Buen Camino.
Life...one big adventure 
Oh there she is! Howdy Mel. Sounds like a pleasant day.
I started following a guy leaving out of SJPDP the other day and he’s now almost halfway. Nearly fell off my chair when the posts started coming on 70/80 odd kms a day hiked! Ultra hiking.
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Yes, it doesn’t take much to get my mojo back. A full belly and a good sleep and all is right with the World again. Now, I know everyone walks their own Camino, but how is 70-80km a day ‘fun’ and allowing you time to enjoy the scenery and companionship?
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That’s an admirable trait – the bounce back ability!
Yes, a long, long day of walking but you would see things. He seems to be enjoying and still meeting. people. I guess you’d just not see the same people again but maybe that suits some people too. Lol we all gotta walk our own pace hey. He’s interesting, travels very light under 4.5kgs.
Me, my feet would collapse and my nails would drop off! I once did 100kms in 24 hours for oxfam – never again.
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As you know, every gets something different from walking a Camino.
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Yep true that!
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Sorry, meant ‘everyone gets something different’…
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All good! I read it like that.
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💜
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we’ve had fog for several days now on the north Cornish coast, unlike the rest of the UK which is baking hot! I had not realised that you would have such fog and rain in the north of Spain at this time of the year. Only one week to go! It has been a pleasure sharing the Camino with you (especially as you do all the hard work). Am I right in thinking that your next big adventure is the trail in western Australia? Can’t remember the name. Hope you have a bit of rest time before that begins.
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Oh, you have an amazing memory! I’m impressed! No, not to WA until September, but in the meantime I am doing some hiking in Central Australia. This really has been my year of walking! And by the way, the locals are saying this weather is very unusual and normally it is much colder here. I don’t think there’s such a thing as normal weather anywhere anymore. Thanks again for following the adventure and all your support. It is much appreciated. Mel
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September is not that far off! I look forward to your Central Australia hikes. Are we talking around Alice? Scratching my head to figure out where central is… 🤔
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Yep, as always you are spot on again. Google ‘Larapinta Trail’.
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Wow! Are you doing the entire trail? I have driven through the Macdonnell Ranges and explored some of the places along there, astonishing scenery, but I imagine it to be tough walking territory. I shall love seeing your journey.
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You are amazing. You’ve seen more of Aus than most Australians! Yep, 14 days/13 nights on the trail, although on this one I am on a guided tour and will just be walking with a day pack. It will be fabulous!
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And you thought the Camino was warm LOL
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It will be the middle of Winter so although the days will be warmer, the nights will be very fresh!
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Perfect, Mel. Yes, of course it would be winter time to do that walk, I was thinking summer. Duh!
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Walking in Summer out there would be a death wish!
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Is everything over in a week? No ways! Ugh, running … not my favourite thing in the world. Walking will get me there too (in time) 😄. Beautiful photos in the mist/fog (I never know which one it is). But I still can’t get over the fact that you only have a few days of walking left in Spain …
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Sorry, I regret to advise that I am on the home straight. See? You were having so much fun walking, you didn’t notice the days slipping by. You must be walking a real Camino. 💜
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And after walking with you for so long, I still have no blisters (that’s the only good thing)! We will definitely walk the Camino again – when, I don’t know. But the opportunity will come again!
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You are so clever not to get any blisters! 😆
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Wonderful photos, Mel. It is amazing how fast the time has gone and it’s been a pleasure to follow your journey. As Billy Connolly has quoted on numerous occasions “There’s no such thing as bad weather only inappropriate clothing” 🙂 Buen Camino.
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🌞🌞
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Running is not for me anymore… But I guess everyone got to do what they want to do !! 😉 I hope you get good weather for the last 7 days. I have friends who are in the last 100 km of the Frances nos and they say it is busy !!!
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I have booked all my accommodation ahead now , so at least I know I have a bed of some sort.
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glad you got your mojo back. It never leaves you for long! Enjoy your final days…unbelievable
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Thanks, Kerry. Now that I am on the home straight, it is hard to stay present, but I know I just need to enjoy every moment. Melxx
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The “thickest of dogs”? So you ran into Odie from the Garfield comics? 😜 Don’t worry, I’m amazed you have the energy to post anything every day so the odd misspelling is perfectly acceptable. I just thought it was a funny one. 😄
Hard to believe you’ll be finished in a week. Where did the last three weeks go?
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OMG! My apologies to you and all the dogs out there! 🐕🐶
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Good to have a more cheerful Mel, on the home straight today. That looks a very ankle jarring path for jogging so good luck to him! Slow but steady wins the race.
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Yes, I don’t know how his knees etc would this terrain at pace. It’s hard enough walking it, but if it makes him happy then good luck to him!
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😁🩵
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Sorry, more typos… would ‘handle’ this terrain…😣
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It’s ok. I can read between the lines 😁🩵
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😁
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