Day: 25
Date: Wednesday, 14 June 2023.
From: Grandas de Salime To: A Fonsagrada
Distance (Planned): 27.5km Actual (Garmin): 26.3km Progress: 691/801km
Start Walking: 0602 End: 1230pm
Time: 6h28m
Ascent: 816m Descent: 467m
Terrain: One long grueling ascent, with a fair dose of road walking.
Weather: Chilly to start with thick fog for the first 4.5hrs and then sunshine.
Stayed At: Albergue Cantabrico – €15.
General Comments:
- Yesterday, because I had access to good internet I set to and reviewed my schedule for the next 7 walking days and decided to try and book accommodation in advance. I seem to be in a large bubble of walkers at the moment and I understand that the Camino Frances is incredibly busy too. While I would much prefer to be a bit more relaxed when it comes to choosing accommodation, I think the most important thing is to know that there is a bed waiting for me at the end of each day. One less thing to think about.
- I have also changed my walking scheduled slightly. Originally I was going to cross from the Primitivo at Lugo and join up with another couple of camino paths to avoid being on the Camino Frances were possible. I have now decided that I will finish the Primitivo for completion’s sake. It does mean another day on the Camino Frances, but maybe the novelty of the walking masses will be fun.
- It was quite eerie walking today in the fog on my own. However, I wasn’t alone long and was quickly overtaken by a very fast Spanish couple, a bicycle pilgrim and then an equally fast Belgian couple. The Belgian couple would be my age or older and their walking speed is simply mind blowing. When chatting to them, they admitted that even they have been surprise at how well they have handle the terrain. More power to them.
- One of the highlights of today has been that we have crossed into the province of Galicia. Galicia is the home of Santiago de Compostela and all camino routes must pass through this province to arrive at the Cathedral. The change in the quality and frequency of way marking signage was instantly noticeable as was the quality of the path. I saw at least 3 teams of workers mowing and whipper snipping the edges of the path and this made them so much easier to walk on i.e. not having to wade through waist high wet grass.
Top Tips:
- The Albergue Cantabrico is highly recommended. It is really modern and clean, and the rate includes real sheets and a small towel. Luxury!
- Don’t hold your breath for coffee today. You need all the breath you have to handle the hills and you still won’t get coffee.
Buen Camino
Life...one big adventure 
I’ve been following your blog closely, as I’m planning the same route in September. By any chance, did you find out if the Ruta Verde is still intact? Hard finding info on it for this year’s walking conditions.
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I got some initial information from the caminodesantiago forum, but I will try to find out some more current information tomorrow when I get to Lugo. If I see a tourist office, I will pop in and see if they have anything relevant. Buen camino to you.
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Thank you so much! Beautiful scenes from your walk today!
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Thanks. The skies were truly amazing.
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Sorry, I haven’t found out anything super-concrete, but I hope this helps. I asked at the Tourist Office and they referred me to the Centro de Interpretacion do Camino de Santiago. Apparently this is the local office for all things Camino. Maybe Google them and see if you can email them etc. I also just ran into my Belgian friends and they are heading off on this path tomorrow. Their German guidebook refers to the path as the Via Friol and the book says it is well-marked with green and blue arrows. I hope this helps. Buen Camino to you. Mel
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Thank you SO MUCH for asking! I’ll follow up with the Centro de Interpretacion do Camino de Santiago and continue to see if anyone posts about this alternate route. Hope your day of walking is rewarding. 🙂
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Check out Ivar’s forum too. There are lots of threads
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Ha ha what no coffee. Lol. Great musing again Mel will miss your daily updates. I’m following a few del norte blogs and they all seem to be booking for when the path meets. I hear you re: not having to worry about the bed. I’m walking in a few weeks and have started booking. I want to manage my distances this time and don’t want to be caught in coastal towns with holiday makers like last year. There’s always room for flexibility even with schedules on the camino, we just adjust hey. xx
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Well, that’s a bit exciting. When you start booking stuff, it gets very real! Maybe they will have more open bars etc in holiday destinations so your caffeine levels should remain stable! ☕☕
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Ha ha yes I think I’ve done the long stretches of nothing part of the Norte, well until the Primitivo … which I’m now sure I need some more training for. 😂😂😂 I’ve been busy writing up my firsts two stages so I can post before I hit the live trail again. Definitely feeling the excitement build. Next time go home via Amsterdam so you can come put your feet up! And drink coffee as soon as you wake. 😉
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Be careful what you wish for, Fran! 😆🤣😉😍
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I love visitors! Husband and so. are off tomorrow to home TMB so come after your camino. No worries mate. 😘😂
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Ah, if only I could. I’m all locked up with fixed flights etc, but one day the stars will align. 🥰
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We’ll plan it next time! You’re back now.
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Yep. Plenty of adventures on the drawing board. How does via Podiensis/Le Put sound for 2025?
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I’ll defo meet you for a part of this!
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I’ll keep you posted! 🇫🇷🇫🇷
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You’ll have to find out what those fast walkers are eating (or drinking) 😉. But you know what … each to their own! Real sheets and a towel – now that’s what I call “getting prepared for home”! Buen Camino Mel – enjoy the last week 👣.
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I know they eat a lot of chocolate and drink wine every night, so maybe I need to take a leaf out of their book?!🍷🍷🍫🍫
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No ☕? 😲
Some enterprising person should set up a mobile coffee stall outside every albergue.
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I have thought exactly the same thing! A coffee van and porta-loo at the 2hr distance/mark. They would make a fortune! 😆
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I think I find your walking achievements more amazing with every post! More power to you Mel, and thanks for finding time on your adventure to share your experiences.
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Thanks so much for your support, Sue. Some days it is harder than others to find the motivation and energy to post, but I think if I missed a day my mother would think I had fallen off a mountain! Hope you are keeping well, Melx
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Buen Camino, Mel. I will repeat what Frances wrote in that your musings have been wonderful to follow and of course inspirational.
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You are very kind to say so, although I am sure many people are ready for a break! 😊
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I’m a little bit bemused at what ‘big business’, in a small way, these caminos have become, Mel. Another friend is soon to set off in Tuscany. I hope you have a sense of achievement when you’ve done this, and I’m sure you will have earned it. Sweet dreams, hon! Back on the road tomorrow.
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I was only thinking today that the culture of the Camino seems to have changed. It seems that many people treat it as just another thing to tick off their travel list. While that is fine, to me they are missing out on the essence of the experience. I understand some albergues are no longer accepting people’s suitcases that have been ferried ahead. They are giving priority to people who are walking with all their goods and chattels on their backs. Thanks for your support, Jo. It is much appreciated. Xx
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🤗💜
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Sheets and towels. It’s amazing what passes for luxury when you’ve been roughing it for a while. I did a 10-week Outward Bound outdoors course in my 20s, so I’ve been there.
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You know that lovely feeling when you slide in between clean sheets. Heaven!
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I definitely think having a bed is more important than the potential flexibility to make sure you’re safe and not worried about it 🙂 No coffee though, nightmare!
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What coffee snobs we have turned into! 😉😆 It does make the day better though and a day without coffee misses something essential..☕☕
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Honestly, this lack of coffee thing is outrageous! Thank goodness for sunshine as compensation.
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We pilgrims are adaptable and take the good with the bad, and coffee when we can get it!
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