The Larapinta Trail, Central Australia – Day 8

A freezing wind continues to plague us day and night, and I am trying to work out how many layers of clothes I can comfortably climb mountains in.

It’s really cold as we set out on the trail this morning and then within minutes, I have to stop to peel layers off. A most annoying First World problem.

The upside of the wind is that it drowns out the snoring symphony emanating from the surrounding tents and perhaps, my own not insignificant contribution to the cacophony!

Date: Sunday, 23 July 2023.

From: Ellery Creek Big Hole/South

To: Serpentine Gorge

Section #: 7

Rating: Moderate-Difficult.

Official/Map Distance: 12.8km      Planned Distance: 13km         Actual Distance: 13.4km

Progress: 139/223km

Ascent: 509m                                  Descent: 440m

Terrain: Undulating. Following the foothills/ridgelines of the Heavitree Range.

Started Walking: 0833                   Finished: 1246pm                     Time/Hrs: 4h12m

Weather: Clear with a cold wind. Today we had to rug up for the first time. It’s Winter afterall.

Stayed At: Serpentine Chalet group camp.

General Comments:

• Today’s walk was all about ROCKS! Yes, we had seen plenty of rocks of all different shapes, sizes and colours up to this point, but all stops were officially pulled out today. The geology of this section was simply amazing.
• There was sandstone, dolomite, granite, quartz, kyanite, limestone and numerous other stone names that washed into my brain and out again. Our guide, Braden was an absolute font of knowledge about all the different rocks and strata, and delighted in explaining their age, properties and formation process. He lost me after about 60 billion years.
• There were rocks in huge boulder formations and bare seams rippling through the foothills of the range. Today it really paid to keep your eyes on the ground as there was always something fascinating to see underfoot.

• Birds were also a feature of today with pink cockatoos, black-faced wood swallows (I didn’t even know that Australia had a native swallow) and a bunch of very bold spinifex pigeons who were happy to dance and perform for our entertainment right beside the path. If only I could capture some decent photos of them.

• Our destination today was Serpentine Gorge. The trail first took us to, and then through, the Indie’s camp before we branched off to visit the Gorge itself. Braden took a moment to explain the special nature of this gorge and the fact that it was a sacred place for men’s business and we were not to go in/near the water. Fair enough.
• It was a pleasant, secluded spot for lunch, even though we still could not escape the biting wind. It took little encouragement to head to the protection of the troopie and make our way back to camp.

• The additional incentive to chow down on lunch and get moving again, was a small window of opportunity to avail ourselves of a bucket shower. Any shower is a good shower and we broke land speed records back at our camp bailing out of the troopie, grabbing our bathroom kit and piling back into the troopie again for the short trip to the showers.
• Who knew that after seven days of not washing your hair, that it would actually return to its natural state? I thought I may be stuck with a head full of thatch forever.

• Today’s Word: Timeless
• Menu: Breakfast: the heartiest, tastiest and warmest bowl of pimped up porridge.
  • Lunch: Thai tofu salad with rice noodles. Yum!
  • Dinner: Spicy crumbed chicken pieces with grilled asparagus and black rice/feta/rocket salad. Lemon cake and cream for dessert.

Top Tips for this Section:

• Never turn down the offer of a warm shower, even if it involves a sneaky commando raid on an unsuspecting neighbouring campsite. Step lively and you will be rewarded.
• Take a few light, warm layers of clothing that you can remove and/or replace as you walk so that you can achieve your own personal state of ‘just right’.
• Make sure you rug up as soon as you stop walking to avoid a chill. A lightweight, foldable rain jacket is great as a windbreaker too.
• If you are an amateur or professional geologist, be prepared for this section to take you twice as long to cover as forecast. There is just so much to see

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