The Larapinta Trail, Central Australia – Day 10

Oh boy! If ever there was a day where I needed to pull up my Big Girl britches and just put one foot in front of the other, today was it! With a bit of planning, Indies can split this stage into two days, but not for us.

Onwards and up, up, upwards…

Date: Tuesday, 25 July 2023.

From: Serpentine Chalet group camp.

To: Ormiston Gorge

Section #: 9

Rating: Difficult.

Official/Map Distance: 28.9km      Planned Distance: 31km         Actual Distance: 32.2km

Progress: 185/223km

Ascent: 926m                                  Descent: 1,037m

Terrain: Very mixed including a very steep ascent/descent to Mt Giles Lookout with endless switchbacks.

Started Walking: 0534                   Finished: 352pm                       Time/Hrs: 10h16m

Weather: Freezing and windy to start, and then very warm.

Stayed At: Serpentine Chalet group camp.

General Comments:

• Today started at 0450 with rustling around the camp as everyone pulled on their hiking boots and huddled around the catering trailer grasping cups of hot coffee and tea. Breakfast would have to wait until further down the trail, but I wasn’t going to miss out on a heart-starter coffee.
• With headlamps ablaze, our little troop of walkers set off into the dark. I was carrying the two-way radio again at the front of the group and when I turned around to count headlamps, I smiled at my mental images of dwarves heading off for a day of toil deep down in the mines. Not us. We were going up instead.

• The trailhead was located at the Indie’s camp, about 1.5km down the road from our group campsite, so we had a little extra distance to add onto our already long day.
• It is a little disorienting to be walking in the dark. Yes, the directional signs are reflective so it is easy to spot them up ahead in the distance, but you get no sense of scale or perspective. It made me realise how much time I spend looking ahead and around as I walk, placing myself in the landscape and trying to judge both direction, and distance.

• Off into the darkness we went. The path was relatively clear and well-marked as we clambered up and down smallish hills. I guess one good thing about walking in the dark is that you don’t know what is waiting up ahead for you, especially the height of any impending climbs.
• The real challenge came when we arrived at Inarlunga Pass which involved a longish clamber through a dry riverbed. While this may sound straightforward, it wasn’t. It is tough to pick the easiest path up, over and around rocks, cliffs and massive boulders, and I was extra conscious of not making the walk any harder than it already was for our group. There was some signage to help guide us in a general direction, but it was still hard to navigate, placing every step carefully in the dark.

• At last, we noticed a slight change in the surrounding light and it was a relief to be able to more clearly see the countless trip hazards. As a group, we hunkered down in a dry, shallow creek bed to eat our breakfast, trying to avoid the worst of the biting wind. We were definitely not successful at warming up and we were all happy to get walking again once our carb loading was completed.
• The upside of our early morning start was that it was a joy to be out walking in the dawn light. The path took us through wide valleys that were half hidden in shade and half in brilliant sunshine. A very effective play of light.

• We seemed to climb most of the morning, passing a few Indies walking West to East. They had camped at Waterfall Gorge to break this larger stage into two. I was envious that they had the worst behind them while it laid in wait for us up ahead.
• From Waterfall Gorge, things got interesting. After a bit more riverbed rock hopping, the path took us straight up! We zigged, we zagged. The switchbacks were endless and were consistently steep. Just when you thought you had reached the top, it was heart-breaking to find it was only another ^%$# false summit. More pulling up of the big girl britches and more zigging and zagging.

• But, Oh, the views! When we finally got up to the top of Mt Giles Lookout, it literally took our breath away. We were awestruck by the 360° vistas, so much so that I forgot to actually find out which of the many mountains was Mt Giles. Where we standing on Mt Giles itself or at a lookout to see Mt Giles? So much beauty in every direction.
• From on high, this is a popular camping place with multiple tent sites with their obligatory rock walls to try to cut the wind. Again, we hunkered down as best we could to enjoy our well-earned lunch before tackling the inevitable descent.

• This stage was lining up to be my favourite until the wind completely disappeared, the temperature climbed and the endless trudge towards Ormiston Gorge began. More false summits, more hills, gullies, rises and rocky descents. All on tired legs. We just wanted to be done for the day.
• Finally, we dropped down into the bed of the Finke River for a sandy stroll into the Gorge. Not an easy way to finish, but the icy plunge in the waterhole at the Gorge revived us instantly! We were all so tired but happy, knowing we had achieved something pretty epic today!

• Today’s Word: Demanding.
• Menu: Breakfast: Two boiled eggs and banana bread.
  • Lunch: A small mountain of pesto pasta salad and not a skerrick was left!
  • Dinner: Gnocchi with lamb and vegetables. Fruit salad for dessert.

Top Tips for this Section:

• Water: There is no water on this section, so make sure you carry plenty. I consumed 5litres over the day.
• The constant wind dries you out and burns just as much as the sun. Carry plenty of sunscreen and reapply regularly.
• Also, snack and sip regularly. There is no easy part of this day and you need to keep your energy levels high, especially for the last, long slog to Ormiston Gorge. Regular snacking and sipping also makes your backpack progressively lighter! Winner!

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