The serious countdown has begun and I can count remaining walking days on two hands, and then one hand. Not that I am wishing the days away, but I am done with being hungry all the time, done with eating dehydrated food, having sore toes, and I am done with being sweaty and dirty all the time.
It has been an amazing experience up to now and I am so glad I set out from Kalamunda all those weeks ago. Now I can almost see the lights of Albany just around the corner and my thoughts are turning to home.
Nearly there…
Days: 38 – 43
Dates: From Thursday, 19 October to Tuesday, 24 October 2023.
Stages: Walpole to Frankland River Campsite = 19.9km
Frankland River Campsite to Giants Campsite = 14.4km
Giants Campsite to Peaceful Bay = 29.5km
Peaceful Bay to Boat Harbour Campsite = 23.6km
Boat Harbour Campsite to William Bay Campsite = 20.8km
William Bay Campsite to Denmark = 22.2km
Total Planned Distance: 125.6km Total Actual Distance: 130.4km
Progress: 904/1,005km
Terrain: Every day was a roller coaster. The constant ascents and descents through coastal scrub was really messing with my head. Frustratingly, the path meandered in every which direction with regular backtracking seemingly going in the completely opposite direction. I think the trail designers have a very sick sense of humour!
Average Daily Ascent: 567m Average Daily Descent: 561m
Weather: Coastal breezes cool us down a little as well as showering us with light rain.
General Comments:
- It was lovely walking along the coast and through the hinterland. The feeling of moisture in the air and on my skin was a pleasant change from the crackling heat of earlier stages of the walk. From Walpole, the path delivered glimpses through the trees of the calm inlet before turning inland and heading back up and into the forest again. This forest was very different though as it featured magnificent tingle trees. Tingle trees are only found in a small area surrounding Walpole and are estimated to live for up to 400years. While, Yes, they are yet more trees, trees, trees their unique growing characteristics make them quite spellbinding. They have these massive buttresses – some over 24m around – and these can be hollowed out by fire, insects or other impacts, and yet the tree survives. They have evolved to allow all the necessary nutrients and water to filter up through the remaining ‘walls’ of the tree trunk. How clever is Mother Nature?
- If you don’t want to walk +800km to see tingle trees, you can visit the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk and enjoy the astounding trees from the comfort of an elevated walkway. Or visit the Giant Tingle Tree site. The Giant Tingle Tree is so large, I think you could drive a small car into its cavernous base.
- This section includes a number of tough days, slogging through coastal dunes. It is incredibly beautiful and the views are breathtaking up and down the coastline, but the soft sand underfoot delivers a level of challenge I had not experienced up to now. The Conspicuous Beach area is particularly challenging as it includes a very steep climb off the beach. So steep in fact that they have installed a long rope so you can pull yourself up. Picture an almost vertical incline, soft sand slipping away with every step AND a fully loaded backpack on your back! Boy, oh boy! I thought I was going to topple backwards any second and found that getting down on hands and knees was the only way I could move my centre of gravity to a manageable point.
Highlights:
- Peaceful Bay is a spectacular spot despite the miles of soft sand and limited signage to get there. The beach is very sheltered, perfect for swimming and the caravan park is super clean and modern. There is soft, green grass to pitch your tent on or park your caravan if you have one, and the famous fish and chip shop is just across the road. Be warned, it is pretty expensive fish and chips, but absolutely delicious and it wasn’t dehydrated food, so it was even more delicious!
- And the next day it was time to go canoeing! Who would have thought a hike would involve a 200m paddle? I am not afraid to admit that I was a bit nervous about this, not being an experienced canoeist, but with Aitch’s assistance, I was paddling away in no time. Despite what you may be thinking, this is an official section of the Bibbulmun Track and all the gear is housed in little huts constructed by Bibb volunteers. To be polite, it is important that canoes are waiting on both sides of the inlet and Aitch ‘took one for the team’, and towed our two canoes back to our starting point on the western edge of the water. This certainly is one diverse ‘walk’.
- On this stage, we walked our last Monday and perhaps that qualifies me to link to Jo’s Monday Walk. I am counting the days down and even more so on this Monday as it was on this day that I hit the wall! Yes, it was another day when there was nothing left in the tank and it became a real mental battle to keep pushing through the soft sand. Struggling into the Parry Beach Campsite, I felt like I had walked 30km not the 11.8km it took to get there. Imagine my delight when the Park Manager/Caretaker offered us a hot cuppa?? We had already had our morning break and snacks, however I definitely was not going to say ‘No’ to another break. The coffee was only instant and the biscuits were garden-variety store-bought, but the hospitality and kindness were absolute gold! I powered through the next 8km of beach walking and soft sand be damned.
- Despite the soft sand, we have been very lucky with our beach walking up to now and we know it. The route often took us to the very edge of the water and there was the requirement to cross a number of inlets which had the possibility of being open to the ocean with rushing water and strong currents. As it turned out, our luck held and every single inlet we had to cross was completely closed with solid sand. No wet feet for us.
- The section into Denmark (the town, not the country) was a real mix of coastal ridges, a stiff climb up over Mt Hallowell and then a pleasant walk on the edge of the inlet almost all the way into Denmark. The town itself has a nice vibe, almost a bit alternative lifestyle, and it would be a good spot to have a rest day if you were so inclined. Unfortunately, only allowing ourselves one night here at the very comfortable Blue Wren Hostel, meant that there was only time and energy to resupply, and wash clothes, before heading out again the next day.
It’s hard to believe that this adventure is almost over.
#travelinspo #BibbulmunTrack #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #australianbush #beachwalking #Walpole #Denmark #bushwalks #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #WesternAustralia #discoverwesternaustralia #nativeflora #nativebirds #vitaminsea #restday #hikingadventures #epicadventures
Life...one big adventure 
An endurance test with fabulous views, Mel. And Tingle trees! Quite amazing and well done to you and H. What an accomplishment! Thanks so much for sharing it with me 🤗🩷
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We are nearly there, Jo. It must be time for me to start planning the next big adventure! 🙂
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🤣❤️
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Again, such cool flora (got it right this time), and so many things to love about the tingle tree (especially the name!). Love the Walpole sign, too. Way, to push through the pain, Mel! I’m up for climbing that rope, by the way.
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It sounds like we need to start planning a walk together! 🙂 Don’t worry, I am only joking. I wouldn’t put you through that agony! 🙂
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Whew!
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🙂
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Weeks spent in nature are good for body and soul. It’s a magical experience. Plus, you meet countless wonderful people and join them in the Bibbulmun Track community. As I can see from your wonderful photos from the trail – stunning scenery is the rule. I salute your efforts to commit to hiking a long-distance trail as you would need a strong mind to complete a 1000+ km trail because it takes more than pure physical strength to reach the finish line.
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Thank you for your kind words. It was a challenge on a daily basis, but as you say, very good for the body and soul. It is a real privilege just to be out in Nature and moving slowly, absorbing everything around me. Have a great day. Mel
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I’m echoing Jo, in saying what an amazing accomplishment Mel. The walk through the Tingle trees and the coastal areas brought back good memories of our trip. Thanks for sharing, and you inspire me to keep thinking “one day …”😊
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Go Suzanne! It’s time to plan your ‘one day’!
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Most probably long overdue. So, Mel where to next? 🙂
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I have lots of adventures on the wish list, but am reluctant to commit just yet due to unknown/potential family commitments. Hopefully I can share some plans at the end of January. Have a lovely day.
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Ditto and yes family commitments and things can go pear shape very easily are my reasons for not planning.
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There is nothing stopping us dreaming though and it is free… 🙂
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Agreed and I just use my imagination when out walking locally, I can be anywhere in the world 😉
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And isn’t that a challenge sometimes? I often have to remind myself to be ‘present’ and enjoy what is right in front of me.
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Absolutely agree that being in the present is preferable. I was sort of saying that because I can’t travel due to Les’s major health issues I resort to ‘dreaming of foreign places’ when boredom occasionally sets in. Wrote with tongue in cheek. I was just having a read on the camino website and read a comment from striped socks, small world 🙂
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🙂 – Yes, it is a small world! There is a time and place for everything and sometimes having to wait for something makes us value it even more. Happy dreaming to you.
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So much interesting vegetation. The coastal views must make up for the slog up to sand dune though 🙂 Maggie
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Yes, those views were a wonderful change to the endless trees and there was plenty of pausing to admire! 😉
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What an epic journey you are on!!! I love walking but this is another level, good on you!! 🤗
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Many thanks for your kind words. I think that sometimes these things start out as a ‘good idea’ and then you get so far in, you are committed and have no choice but to keep going! 🙂
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Haha so true but what an experience!
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Absolutely! An experience not to be repeated by me! 😉 But don’t hold me to it! 🙂
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🤣🤣
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Your photos are just beautiful, and Peaceful Bay looks like the perfect spot to stop and relax. This really has been another epic walk, and as always you’re amazing with what you do 🙂
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Thanks Han. I rarely feel ‘amazing’, but it is amazing what you can achieve with a little bit of determination, persistence and insanity! 🙂
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Wow, those trees are so cool! And enormous. As someone who has backpacked on sand before, I can feel your pain. It’s so exhausting to walk on with all that weight. But wow are those ocean views lovely!
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The water views certainly make the sand slogs worthwhile. Thanks for sharing my pain! 🙂
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The idea of walking for any length of time through soft sand is my idea of walking purgatory! The Tingle trees look amazing, yes nature’s ability to survive is incredible. Happy new year to you Mel 😀
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Thanks Jim. Happy New Year to you too. It’s raining here at the moment, so hardly your typical Aussie Summer! 🙂
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Ugh, walking on soft sand is not easy, especially if you have already walked more than 800km! Canoeing on a hiking trail – that’s a first! And again … despite how hard it was on some days, you have stunning pictures in this post!
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The beautiful views were a wonderful reward for the hard yakka, that’s for sure.
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It is amazing to be so many days in a row in the middle of the nature. The views are fantastic, and so many wildflowers!! It looks very refreshing to breathe and feel the surrounding energy, despite the challenges of course🙂
Have a lovely day!
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Yes, that concept of forest bathing is truly a ‘thing’. So, so good for the soul.
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I totally agree!! xx
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