Have you ever experienced that weird feeling where you have been working your way towards something for a very, very long time and then, BANG, it’s just within reach?
It’s hard to believe that this epic adventure is almost over. Where have the last +40 days gone? And how on Earth have I walked all this way?
We are not there yet though, so let’s not count our chickens. Let’s just keep putting one foot in front of the other and enjoying the glorious coastal views.
Days: 44 – 47
Dates: From Wednesday, 25 October to Saturday, 28 October 2023.
Stages: Denmark to West Cape Howe Campsite = 19.2km
West Cape Howe Campsite to Torbay Campsite = 16.6km
Torbay Campsite to Sandpatch Campsite = 25km
Sandpatch Campsite to Albany = 12.3km
Total Planned Distance: 74.5km Total Actual Distance: 73.1km
Progress: 977/1,005km
Terrain: Coastal undulations climbing sandy ridges and heading down the other side. Endless gorgeous views.
Average Daily Ascent: 422m Average Daily Descent: 409m
Weather: We have been so lucky with the weather on this track. Yes, there were many hot days as well as a few wet days where it was impossible to get things dry and yet, it was all doable. For this last stage, the skies were clear and even though it remained hot, (other than a freezing 3°C start on our last morning) we enjoyed a breeze every day. Magic!
General Comments:
- There was a genuine spring in our step this morning as we set out on Day 44. Getting out of Denmark is tricky to say the least and we opted to get a lift from our hostel around the inlet to be dropped near the track again. While this may sound like cheating, it is the safest option. You see, the ‘official’ path actually crosses the inlet and the water can be up to shoulder height with a very strong current. I don’t mind getting wet, but I am not keen to get swept out to sea. Yes, like other inlets we have experienced, the depth of the water does vary, but it is simply not worth the risk this late in the game.
- Another alternative is to walk from Denmark to the trailhead and again, this is not the safest option as the only road (no Bibb track) is a busy highway for 20km or so. As the majority of other Bibb hikers opt for a lift too, we decided we would follow the well-trodden path…or car seat. I have to say it felt very weird to be in a car speeding along after moving so slowly through the landscape for six weeks or so.
- Even though we were nearing the end of the Track, we were still meeting plenty of section hikers, mainly NOBOs. We even met some day hikers who were strolling along carrying only gloriously light and small daypacks. Apparently, there are a couple of companies who provide fully-supported trips and will drop off/pick up hikers at the end of each stage and then return you to a real bed and real food at night. So, if this trail appeals to you without all the hard yakka, there are definitely more comfortable options out there.
- And even this late in the hike, I am still doubting myself and constantly double-checking signage and my direction. I walked on my own from West Cape Howe Campsite to Torbay and I was worried that I was actually backtracking. Of course, I was imagining things and once I remembered that the ocean was on my righthand side, and should always be there as I head eastwards, I was perfectly fine. Yes, the ol’ mind playing silly games again.
- Ever since hitting the coast we have been desperately seeking whales. Other hikers have reported multiple sightings of mother and baby whales on their migration back to the Antarctic, but not us! Zip, zero, nada! There is a whole lot of ocean out there, mostly covered in white caps to disguise a splash, a slap or a spout of spray.
- Flies! OMG! I know I am a dinky di, true blue Aussie, but even I could not believe the flies. THOUSANDS of them riding along on my backpack and doing their darndest to get into my mouth, eyes and nose. They even joined me in the early morning cool and hung on in the strongest, gustiest coastal winds and rain. Thank goodness for my head net. This is one essential piece of kit – although they do add an extra layer of challenge when eating, drinking or blowing your nose. All that does not work well through the net! 😊
Highlights:
- Have you ever met a quenda? At Torbay campsite, the log book mentioned there was a resident quenda called ‘Patrick’. I had no idea what a quenda looked like until Patrick popped out to say ‘hello’ and check whether we had left him anything to eat on the floor of the shelter. He seemed quite happy to hop around as we sat quietly, before disappearing back into the bush again. Very cute.
- And have you ever been excited by the sight of a garbage bin? We hikers are simple souls and as you must carry all your rubbish out on this trail, a garbage bin is a terribly exciting find. At Cosy Corner beach, just past Torbay campsite, we found bins and real toilets with toilet paper and running water and soap to wash your hands. It really was our lucky day! 😊
- I have loved walking through all the magnificent bush and great outdoors on this path and equally love it when I see signs of civilisation, including the wind turbines up ahead. They are an iconic symbol on this trail as the path meanders beneath them. Once you ‘hit’ them, it means you only have about 25km to Albany. Woo Hoo!
- We double-hutted to spend our last night at Sandpatch campsite leaving only a very short 12.5km for our last stroll into Albany. Sandpatch is unusual in that it is made completely out of corrugated iron with extensive paving around the outside. Apparently, the whole shelter burned down a few years ago and they have done their best to make it as fire resistant as possible. It also had a large swarm of bees in residence, although they did go to bed early. We didn’t bother them, so they didn’t bother us.
- It was so exciting to wake up on our last day, knowing we only had 12.5km to go. We all were awake very early and happy to hit the trail – if for no other reason than to warm up! I think it was only about 3°C when we hopped out of our sleeping bags. Everyone kept telling us it would get cooler the closer we got to the coast, but I wasn’t expecting it to be this cool on our very last morning!
- The trail descended gently to the edge of the bay that Albany is nestled against. It was a case of near-and-yet-so-far as we had to walk all the way around the edge of the bay to reach Albany on the far side. Our footsteps were powered by excitement and the thought of real coffee, and celebratory cake.
- Albany looks like a fascinating place with tonnes of history and interesting places to visit. Apparently, the majority of Australian soldiers sailed from here in WW1 and there is an extensive ANZAC museum that is well worth a visit. A more detailed explore will have to wait for another time when I return…in a car!
- In the meantime, it was time to celebrate with lots of photos at the Southern Terminus of the Bibbulmun Track and a loud ring of the bell! I am done! And ‘done’ in every sense of the word!
And, it is also time to give thanks…
Thanks to the Noongar people for the privilege of walking through their country, up and down their endless hills, beneath ancient and towering trees, and past the endless gorgeous blooms.
Thanks to the Bibbulmun Track Foundation and all their volunteers who make this walk possible and a million times more comfortable with brilliant shelters, and excellent signage. The West Australian Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions also deserves my thanks for topping up the water tanks and resupplying toilet paper. A vital role!
Thanks so much to you for following me on yet another adventure. I have really appreciated all your comments, likes and general moral support. Now it is time to rest up over Summer and wait for cooler walking temperatures to return in early 2024.
Wishing you all a very happy New Year. I hope 2024 brings you much health and happiness, and a few adventures too – whatever your adventure looks like. Talk to you again in February. All the best, Mel
#travelinspo #BibbulmunTrack #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #australianbush #beachwalking #Albany #Denmark #bushwalks #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #WesternAustralia #discoverwesternaustralia #nativeflora #nativebirds #vitaminsea #restday #hikingadventures #epicadventures
Life...one big adventure 
I have never heard of a quenda, but the little guy looks quite adorable. Congratulations on completing the Bibbulmum Track! I’ve so enjoyed following along with you and seeing all these lovely pieces of Australia along the way.
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You must be about due for a trip to Aus and a few handstands?? 🙂
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Yes, Diana. Be like us cool people and go to Australia. 😂😉
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🙂 – The place to be!!
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Hopefully one of these days!
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Fantastic! If I’d been going to walk any of this it would be that last coastal stretch, Mel. It does look beautiful, but I could do without the flies. Here’s to you and new adventures in 2024 🤗🩷
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Yes, Jo. I think you are right. This last section is truly spectacular. I did love all the forests and trees, however 2 weeks of trees, trees, trees would have been preferable to 4! 🙂 Wishing you a Happy New Year and I hope 2024 is very kind to you and yours. Melxx
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🤗🌸
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Worth doing just for the quenda 😀
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Truth! 🙂
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Well done once again, Mel! That feeling you mentioned at the beginning? I know it! I did a 2.5-month Colorado Outward Bound course in my 20s and I had that same feeling at the end. And Patrick the Quenda? So cute! I look forward to seeing what adventures 2024 brings you (though I think I know one hiking adventure you’re planning 😉 ). Happy New Year, Mel!
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and a very Happy New Year to you both too! I look forward to following your 2024 adventures online and in person! 🙂 Take care, Melx
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Happy New Year Mel. It’s been really good hiking alongside you this year, I don’t believe you can have been at home more than a week! I wonder where we are going in 2024. 🤔
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And a very Happy New Year to you too, Jude. I have loved sharing my adventures with you as you knew many of the places I walked. I hope I brought back many happy memories. My 2024 adventures are a little fluid at the moment, but hopefully I will have some big things to share soon. Take care and all the best, Melx
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Congratulations Mel. Well done. Now enjoy a well earned rest.
Happy new year.
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Thanks Kay and a Happy New Year to you and Fuzz. After following my Bibb, do you think it is worth you revisiting? Or too much/too long? x
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Thank you. It’s definitely not for me. I didn’t like the whole tent experience or the dried food. I even sold all my gear.
I like a bed and a wine at the end of each day.🙂
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Yep, I am definitely tempted by those luxuries too. I wouldn’t do such long independent hike again although would consider shorter ones.
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You might like the Cooloola Great Walk.
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I will keep it in mind if I head up your way.
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Well Done! Tiring but very satisfying I’m sure. Those boots look like you could get another thousand miles out of them! 😉 Happy New Year to you Mel, it will reach you before it reaches me.
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🙂 – Oh, those boots!! They were so busted! Starting to split, stitching coming undone and no tread! You can’t imagine how pleased I was to dump them in the bin. My feet are still recovering! 🙂
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😀
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What an amazing journey! Congratulations!
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It certainly was amazing and it’s hard to believe I actually did it! Happy new year and many walks in 20224.
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Congrats! Quite the achievement. That quenda is adorable. Happy 2024! Maggie
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Happy 2024 to you both too, Maggie. No doubt you have some fabulous adventures planned.
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Hard to believe it actually happened. The feet are already itching again! Well done on such an epic achievement! 💪
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I know and I know! I find I am thinking about our adventure almost every day and sometimes I feel I am still coming down to Earth. The adventure wish list is a long one in 2024, but will have to stay fluid for a bit longer. You have some absolute crackers planned!
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Congratulations Mel! It’s a huge achievement and I’ve enjoyed following along with your journey. Enjoy your well-deservered rest. Happy New Year 🙂
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Many thanks for following the adventure and a Happy New Year to you too. I hope you have some great things planned for 2024.
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Wow that is quite an endeavor.. bravo.
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Many thanks and Yes, it was a very memorable endeavour. Have a good day
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I’m not sure how I missed the ending of your walk. I’m here now and thinking my feet don’t hurt at all. Seriously, Mel, that was a fantastic feat. It’s lovely to see photos of the terrain as it’s a beautiful part of W.A. Last but not least your smiling face.
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That big smile was due to finally, after all my dreaming and wishing, throwing my worn out boots into the garbage bin! Yet another highlight of my final day! 🙂
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Totally understandable 🙂
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🙂
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Stunning photos! I’m so glad the weather was mostly on your side 🙂
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Many thanks. Yes, weather makes all the difference to the enjoyment of each walking day. Have a good day. Mel
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Fantastic photos of a great trip, what an absolute accomplishment! I love Patrick the quenda, never even heard of those!!! As for the flies, oh they’re terrible here. It was the same for us at Uluru, they never give up 🤣. Have lots of rest and enjoy 2024z
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A Happy 2024 to you too and thanks for following the adventure! Mel
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I wouldn’t mind walking some portions of this. The quenda looks interesting, a kind of bandicoot. Some of his cousins have taken to city living across Asia.
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I am not sure if it is the same family of the bandicoot or whether it is more closely related to the quokka. Cuteness overload, either way. Have a good day.
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Ah, the simple things in life that are absolute luxury items … toilet paper, running water and soap! Well done Mel – you are a true hiker! I really enjoyed walking with you (while sitting on the couch). Thanks for sharing all your amazing photos and stories. I see you’re planning to buy new boots for your adventures in 2024 and I look forward to more hiking trails with you!
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Thanks so much for following along. Your company is much appreciated. Yes, hopefully a few nice adventures await us both in 2024.
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Congratulations, what an amazing journey. So beautiful and now I’ve met a quenda vicariously.
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Thanks, Rebecca. Yes, it was quite the ‘journey’. Sometimes I can’t believe I actually walked every step.
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You must feel proud, exhilarated, and tired. How are your tootsies?
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Yes, I was pretty wrecked by the time I got home, but felt super strong and fit. That’s all disappeared, of course. 😁 My feet have recovered although my little toes still give me some grief every now and then. I am going to buy some new hiking shoes in a couple of weeks and that should fix them right up. Have a good week. Mel
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Beautiful!
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It was. Ta
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Wow what a journey! Love the shoe drop picture 🙂
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and I sure loved dropping those %$#@! shoes!! 🙂
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🙂
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