How weird does it feel to have a rest day when you are on a walking tour? After days and days of early rises, bag packing and walking slowly, slowly up mountains, you pause. And the weirdness is found in that pause.
Why are we not moving??
While the body and mind are happy to stop for a bit, the legs and feet think they should still be going somewhere. Thankfully both legs and feet are overruled and we all enjoy a slow day…
Well, some much slower than others.
Day: 11
Date: Saturday, 12 October 2024.
From: Gokyo (4,759m) To: Gokyo (4,759m)
Daily Km: 0km Walking Time: 0h0m
Progress: 51.6km
Ascent: 0m Descent: 0m
Weather: More cool and clear weather before thick cloud rolled in about lunchtime.
Terrain: The streets of Gokyo.
Stayed At: Fitzroy Inn & Bakery
General Comments:
- If you recall from the previous post, the stroll into Gokyo was very pretty, but pretty intimidating too. It gave us very clear and scary views of Gokyo Ri – the mountain we were scheduled to climb today.
- I’m not afraid to admit I was very nervous about this activity as it was just so steep (5,483m – the highest we would have climbed to date) and I am so slow. So, going to bed last night I was full of nerves and not feeling the best.
- It was only when I woke up during the night, feeling even worse, that I realised I was coming down with my illness-of-choice, a head cold.
- Long before leaving Australia, I had been given a tip from a very experienced Himalayan hiker NOT to have a shower on the way up to Everest Base Camp to reduce the chance of catching a chill and getting sick. Why didn’t I listen to that advice and skip the shower at Macchermo? I guess the lure of a clean body was just too strong.
- So, when the 430am wake-up call came to get ready for the ascent of Gokyo Ri, I rolled over and told The Husband to put my apologies in. They would have a much better walk without me dragging the chain.
- Before setting out on this adventure, I had heard about the phenomenon named after the region’s glacier, called the Khumbu Cough. At this altitude the air is so dry, and sometimes dusty, which irritates the throat, causing a niggling cough. I definitely wasn’t the only person in our group or the busy Common/dining room coughing and spluttering.
- I was disappointed to miss out on today’s hike as I knew I would never return to this part of the World again, but I also knew the best place for me at this point in time was in bed.
- After much rattling, shuffling and door closing, my group was gone, and all was silent in the lodge until a small elephant stampede started overhead with another hiking group on the move. Oh well, that’s what happens in tea houses/lodges when construction methods and materials leave a lot to be desired.
- Eventually I surfaced as I thought the group would be returning soon. When I dressed and opened the door, there was one of my group members – my wonderful PiC (Partner in Crime). I think I have forgotten to mention that my PiC from last year’s Larapinta Trail adventure was part of our group of six hikers. We had cooked up this Everest scheme together and had been plotting, and planning even before we had finished hiking in the West MacDonnell Ranges (Northern Territory, Australia).
- I was surprised to see her standing in the hallway and asked, “I thought you were going up Gokyo Ri?” She replied, “I did, but had to turn back!” Uh Oh! Apparently, she got about 200m up the trail (yet another almost vertical ascent) and started getting dizzy, hallucinating and nearly passing out. Double, Uh Oh! One of our guides helped her back down to the safety of the lodge. Yep, the affects of altitude are real.
- The rest of the group finally returned to the lodge and everyone said how hard it was – just a relentless ascent – taking them the best part of 3hrs to cover the 2km to the top.
- From the top, there were nice views of the surrounding mountains, but unfortunately Mt Everest was hiding behind a substantial puff of cloud. I would have needed to be rewarded with spectacular, astounding or breathtaking views to make that climb worthwhile. 😊
Highlights & Tips:
- Once everyone had enjoyed their well-earned breakfast and relaxed a little, we broke up and did our own thing for a bit, wandering around the village or resting, before we all reunited at the Gokyo Bakery Café.
- In Nepal they serve this fabulous lemon/ginger and/or mint tea, and that was just the ticket for my head cold. We wiled away our coffees and teas watching a Netflix show called 14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible. This Nepali man decided to climb all 8,000m peaks in under seven months!
- It was a spectacular documentary, but it almost made me feel physically ill. The risks that this man was taking and the risks he was expecting his team to take, was (in my opinion) simply unacceptable. For what purpose? What good was his project adding to the World?
- We didn’t end up watching the end of the documentary as we had to return to the Inn for lunch. Maybe the reasoning or purpose would have been revealed at the end of the film. I am not about to watch it again to find out.
- It’s been a wonderfully relaxing day (for those of us not summiting Gokyo Ri) and we all spent the afternoon reading, sleeping or just chatting to other hikers in the Common/dining room. All good preparation for a big day looming up ahead!
#travelinspo #EverestBaseCampCircuit #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #Nepal #teahouses #WorldExpeditions # epicadventures #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #exoticdestinations #hikingadventures #yaks #Sagarmatha #remotevillages #Gokyo #waterviews #lakeviews
Life...one big adventure 
Hope you recovered soon. Thank you for all the beautiful photos.
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Thank you for your kind words and wishes.
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Yep, it’s real alright! xx
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Unfortunately, Yes! 😦
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Happy Thanksgiving from high oxygen, 1,500 ft. elevation in the Great Smoky Mts. of TN. I remain sinfully envious 🙂
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And a belated Happy Thanksgiving to you too! There is a lot to like about a decent supply of oxygen! 🙂
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Wow, the views are breathtaking!
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Everyday I thought “this is it, the views can’t possibly get better” and then they do!
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And they never cease to amaze, I bet!
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Exactly!
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Your husband’s photos show some wonderful views but you had those aplenty elsewhere and a ‘day off’ was clearly what your body needed! Plus those teas, which sound perfect for a cold 🙂
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Yes, I wasn’t disappointed with what I had seen up to that point and sometimes it is better to admit defeat to allow me to fight another day. 🙂
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Sounds perfect! Apart from the head cold xx
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Yes and Yes. xx
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I’m glad you listened to your body and rested, your health is always more important. And it’s great the husband made it up so you could see you hadn’t missed out too much. That 14 peaks is INSANE – Nims was absolutely incredible. I was saddened to read of the sexual assault allegations against him a while ago.
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Oh boy, I didn’t hear about those allegations. This was the first time I had come across him.
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It’s good to get some rest! Hiking is tough in high altitudes, so rest is important.
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Absolutely. I needed something in reserve for a few big days ahead.
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Sheesh… a head cold is all you need in that environment. I hope the teas helped! I do hope that you will show us one photo of The Husband before the end of the trip. After all he is making a huge contribution to this trip and deserves praise for carrying that equipment. And no, you didn’t mention the PiC before. I am now wondering what the pair of you have cooked up for the next BIG EVENT.
PS Just looking at that photo above Gokyo makes me feel queasy!
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Ah, the PiC and I are planning a stroll or two across your fair isle. Maybe our paths will cross?? 🙂
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Now that sounds exciting!
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Yep and if you can organise some fine weather for us, it would be much appreciated! 🙂
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If I could control the weather I would make a fortune 😂
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and you would be VERY popular!
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Khumbu cough is very real and it’s more likely from the dry weather at altitude than taking a shower that caused it. Too bad Everest was in clouds for the Husband because it is a spectacular view from up there. Maggie
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Yes, What I had definitely wasn’t Khumbu cough, I have only just shaken it in the last couple of weeks. And, as you would know only too well, you can’t control the weather up there!
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Oh no!! Awful to be sick when you’re travelling. I had the cough for a couple of days at the end of our hike, and Richard did when he was climbing. Hope you’re feeling better. Maggie
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All good now, thanks Maggie
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That’s a shame Everest was under cloud but you certainly did the right thing staying put and I hope you got better. Did you wear a buff at all Mel? Almost every porter wore one when I was there to help with the dust of the trail
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Yes, I wore a merino buff every day once it started to get colder. I don’t like them over my nose and mouth though, which I know would have added extra protection.
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I would have chosen a shower, too 😊
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🙂
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Glad you made the smart choice for your condition. I guess I’ll have to wait until the next post to see if the tea and rest ended up kicking your cold in the butt. I’m putting 14 Peaks on my list to watch. If I find anything out about how he’s adding to the world, I’ll let you know.😉
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Ta – you must tell me how it ended. We left about 20mins before the end. I suspect it would be just more mountains. More bravado…
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Oh no! Not how you wanted to spend the day, I’m sure. It’s always so frustrating to come down with a cold on a trip. Fortunate, I suppose, that it happened on a rest day so you had the option to take a bit of a break. Hope you felt better soon. On to the next post to find out!
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🙂
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Gokyo Ri looks very intimidating (well, at least to me)! But the views from the top are incredible – thanks to The Husband for beautiful photos! There’s never a good time to have a head cold, but I’m guessing yours was at a particularly bad time!
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Yes, both intimidating and incredible and I am in awe of those who had the determination and stamina to hike this hike while I…stayed in bed! 🙂
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