Today was only a short walk, but what it lacked in distance, it made up for by delivering the most stunning scenery. Not that today’s scenery could be described as ‘pretty’ or ‘beautiful’. It was rugged, powerful and devastatingly desolate.
Watch your step…
Day: 12
Date: Sunday, 13 October 2024.
From: Gokyo (4,759m) To: Thangnak (4,800m)
Daily Km: 4.2km Walking Time: 2h58m
Progress: 55.8km
Ascent: 111m Descent: 188m
Weather: Clear and cold. I think I have chilblains on my ears!
Terrain: Amazingly alien! Glacial moraine, rocks, boulders, mini-avalanches. Sandy and loose rock underfoot.
Stayed At: Tashi Friendship Lodge
General Comments:
- I hope I have turned a corner today, even though I am carrying a dastardly head cold. Today was the first day of this whole walk where I felt like I wasn’t struggling for every breath. I am not sure if it is me starting to acclimatise (probably not)? Or the magic combination of various cold/flu medications and Diamox coursing through my body? Or the relatively mild terrain? Whatever it is, I like it! 😊
- I was a bit nervous to start the today after having a day-off the trail yesterday and still being in the grip of this head cold. Luckily, there were only steep ascents at the very beginning and end of the trail, and undulations of varying steepness for the rest of the track. Undulations I can do. Even when the undulations are quite steep, at least there is some reprieve on the downhill sections before the next ‘up’ arrives.
- Setting out from Gokyo, we climbed up onto a sheer ridgeline which gave us some beautiful views back over Gokyo and its lake. It really is the most picturesque place, it’s just a shame it is so much bloody hard work to get there! 😊 Or maybe being remote is what preserves its beauty?
- The undulations started in earnest as we began crossing a glacial moraine. The glacier itself has long since withdrawn leaving a mass of rocks, boulders, mini-cliffs, and lakes in its wake.
- As we paused and stood still for a short breather, you could hear the old, remnant ice popping. Then a massive cracking sound would echo out as an avalanche of rocks would come tumbling down in a plume of dust and sand, or make a huge splash into one of the small lakes.
- It really was the most devastatingly desolate landscape – all rock and sand, and shades of brown and black. There were still patches of snow from a recent snowfall (The Husband had spoken to some people before leaving Lukla and they had been snowed in here for three days and had to turn back) in protected nooks and crannies. It’s never too early for serious snow in the Himalayas.
- A mean wind whipped across the alien landscape and we were all scrabbling in our backpacks for our warm gear. Unfortunately, beanies don’t provide any sun protection, so instead, I pulled my merino buff up over the back of my head/neck, covering my icy ears. We were definitely getting into the cold conditions I imagined at Day 1.
- It was busy on the trail this morning with tonnes of foot traffic going in both directions. The porters, as usual, were making very light work of the terrain and the endless loose rock and sand underfoot. We had to regularly step aside to let the porters, and other much faster walkers, streak by. At one stage, that famous photo of the traffic jam of hikers on Everest’s ridgeline came to mind, as we queued to climb yet another steep undulation.
- You really had to watch every step this morning as there were never-ending trip hazards and loose rocks. My walking poles got a real workout providing stability going both up and down. I took a tumble at one stage and slid downhill for a bit. No damage done, just adding another layer of dirt on the trousers I had been wearing for the past seven days straight! They will start walking on their own soon. 😊
Highlights & Tips:
- There were breathtaking views at every turn today and again, I just couldn’t stop taking photos. You wouldn’t think that such a harsh and blasted landscape could be considered attractive, but it absolutely was. I hope my photos share some of the magic of this day.
- Another joy of this landscape is the placement of various temples, posts and prayer flags. In this country their dedication to, and love of, prayer flags knows no bounds. On top of even the highest mountain (such as Gokyo Ri) or the steepest, sheerest and most death-defying ridgeline there were prayer flags aflutter.
- Today the prayer flags high on the ridgeline ahead indicated that we would have to climb up there, but also that our destination, Thangnak, was just around the corner.
- Thangnak is a tiny village, almost too small to be called a village, tucked into a protected gully. It is a popular overnight stop before heading East to cross Cho La pass, or taking the less trodden route southwards and downhill to Phortse. Even though it is a protected spot, it doesn’t top the mist/fog driving in and whiting out the entire valley and view. Time to rug up some more.
- Cho La pass (5,420m) awaits us tomorrow! Gulp!
#travelinspo #EverestBaseCampCircuit #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #Nepal #teahouses #WorldExpeditions #epicadventures #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #exoticdestinations #hikingadventures #yaks #Sagarmatha #remotevillages #Gokyo #avalanches #glaciers #moraine #Thangnak #ChoLaPass
Life...one big adventure 
I’m so glad you were feeling well enough to continue on today. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I’m just in awe of the beautiful scenery. In particular, the turquoise lakes with the towering mountains behind them. Wow! Incredible!
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Onwards and upwards! I wasn’t going to allow a pesky head cold to stop me, although it probably made me slower than I already was! I’m not sure that is possible. 🙂
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Beautiful scenery
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In every direction you look!
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Sounds like the rest day helped a bit, and the short day today. But I know Cho La and it would be tough when you’re not feeling well. 🤞 😊 Maggie
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Thanks, Maggie. It’s amazing what you can do when you have no choice! 🙂
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Spellbinding is right, Mel! I’m rigid with cold just looking at these but…just WOW!
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It actually wasn’t that cold when there wasn’t any wind, but when it whipped up…look out!
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The colour of those lakes are the same as ones in the Rockies in Canada. Same reason, glaciers creating fine rock dust. They are stunning.
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Ahh, that makes sense. Ta. It truly is the most glorious colour.
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Great following your journey Mel and that glacier does look desolate. My knees were crunching by the time I got to Thangnak/Dragnag after going over Cho La from the other direction so I don’t envy you going up from this side! I’ll await the next instalment 😀
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I am not sure which would be harder – going up that %$#@ rocky cliff face or down – especially with ice on the track. I watched ever step.
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Amazing journey! Great photos.
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Many thanks – it is an amazingly photogenic country.
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What a hike! Stunning photos—your Nepalese adventure looks unforgettable
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Totally unforgettable!
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Oh yes, that landscape is bleak but stunning, especially the blue of those lakes! I’m so glad your cold didn’t stop you from continuing 🙂
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I am sure my friends and family will tell you how stubborn I am! 🙂 I just had to keep going. 🙂
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I’m glad your head cold didn’t hold you back and that you enjoyed the day (dare I say that?). It is truly a day with a unique beauty that you are unlikely to find anywhere else. The colour of the lake is stunning – wow!
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Yes, that word ‘enjoy’ may not be appropriate on this hike, but ‘amazed’, ‘spellbound’ and ‘astonished’ would work. 🙂
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Wow, I can’t imagine getting snowed in for 3 days up there. That would kill my joy. Glad it didn’t happen to you.
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I’m glad it didn’t happen to me too! I wasn’t carrying any books!! 😉
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It really is amazingly beautiful – and amazing you managed it with a head cold. The water is such a wonderful colour 🙂
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All of the above. Maybe I was just dazzled by the beauty and the head cold became secondary? 🙂 Whatever happened, it worked.
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After the rush of the festive season I’m aiming to finish reading about your Nepalese adventures. Contrary to your opening remarks on this post I would say your photos show it to be truly beautiful scenery. Having a rest day sounds like it gave you the impetus to tackle more. Cheers
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Thanks so much for following the adventure. And why is it that Christmas etc is so frantic? Despite our best intentions? 😉
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