Today was the day that had most of our group a little nervous. If you looked at the altitude graph the whole trail was shaped like your typical bell curve and today, we would be trawling both up one side of the bell, and down the other.
Time to pull up my Big Girl undies and psych myself up for 17 switchbacks.
Onwards…
Day: 3
Date: Friday, 14 February 2025.
From: Pomplona Lodge To: Sutherland Falls & Quintin Lodge
Distance (Official): 15km Actual: 15.9km
Progress: 44.8km
Time: 5h38m
Ascent: 779m Descent: 910m
Weather: A little bit of everything! Cool to start, cold up at the Pass then hot, hot, hot!
Terrain: More forest paths then a steep, rocky ascent of Omanui/McKinnon Pass and a very steep descent over more rocky paths.
Stayed At: Quintin Lodge
General Comments:
- Following on from yesterday’s birdlife comments, I laughed to myself when I got up in the middle of the night for a wee wander and, as I headed out the cabin door, I surprised two keas who were checking out our cabin to see if there was anything to make off with or chew to death. They flew off with a cheeky squawk, perhaps looking for easier pickings.
- Again this morning, people were jostling to be at the front of the walking pack and we were off like a shot at 0730. We had an earlier start today as it was going to be harder going and slower, with one almighty ascent and a slow descent.
- It was lovely and cool as we set out and I could relate to our Guide’s regular spiel of “be bold, start cold”. I knew I would have no problem warming up on the track.
- The path was also lovely, relatively flat to start and through more gorgeous beech forests. We were working our way further up the valley – to the very pointy end – and the mountains loomed steeper, and closer. They definitely make you feel insignificant when you stand at their feet way, way, way down at the bottom of the valley and look up, up, up.
- After a water and toilet break at a Department of Conservation hut, it was time to put the legs into low gear, the mind in neutral and start up the switchbacks. I tried to count them, but it was hard to know whether a short section qualified as a switchback, or was it only the longer ones? Oh well, anything for a distraction and some small sense of progress.
- Needless to say, there was plenty of pausing to admire the views and to catch my breath. It was fabulous to look through the gaps in the trees and way back down the valley to where we had walked from the previous day.
- Interestingly, since last year’s Everest Base Camp adventure I have a whole new measuring stick when it comes to schlepping up mountains! 😊 Yes, today was hard yakka for a short while, but at least I could breathe!
- As we climbed higher and higher, that perspective became even broader and deeper, until we popped clear above the tree line and it was all soaring mountains, pockets of snow, and billowing mist in every direction. Just glorious.
- It was cold too! From sweating buckets to frantically searching for my puffer jacket – all in a matter of a few short hours.
- As you can imagine, the climb really sorted the group out and we all walked, and puffed uphill at our own pace. I was happy walking in my own little bubble, taking my time and enjoying the views. Yes, I can talk underwater with a mouth full of marbles, but when I am walking, I like the quiet to hear the birds, and the time to enjoy the weather and the beauty of the landscape.
- And the keas were on show today. They soared on the thermals, squawking and carrying on. I’m not sure if they were displeased with my presence invading their patch or laughing at me for making such hard work of it all.
Highlights & Tips:
- The clouds and mist were just magical today. Apparently from the top of Omanui/McKinnon Pass (1,154m) you get outstanding 360° views. When we got to the top it was almost a complete whiteout!
- I loved how the mist streamed over the Pass and cascaded over the edges down into the valleys far below – almost like a cloud waterfall and highly atmospheric.
- You had to be very patient and/or lucky to get a photo in any rare 5-second clear window.
- Again, the trail infrastructure was excellent today and at the top of McKinnon Pass is a hut for independent hikers and an adjacent room for guided walkers. What a treat it was to get out of the cold and warm up with a hot drink.
- The descent, on the other hand, was long, hot and incredibly rough. Make sure you have your walking poles to add balance over smooth and slippery rocks, and definitely don’t rush. I can’t imagine walking this section in wet weather – it would be quite treacherous.
- It was beautiful though, especially once the path aligned with a river full of tumbling waterfalls and babbling brooks.
- And when you get all the way down to the bottom of the valley, don’t miss the side trip to Sutherland Falls. Yes, it is another 45minutes walk on yet more steep and sometimes rocky paths, but it is an outstanding waterfall – the tallest in New Zealand (580m).
- It’s also a magical spot for a swim.
Ah, good times…
#travelinspo # hiking adventures #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #NewZealand #UltimateHikes #epicadventures #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #walkingadventures #hikingadventures #MilfordTrack #birdlife #tramping #hikinginNewZealand #supportedhikes #hikingincomfort
Life...one big adventure 
Milford would have been a dream after Base Camp
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🙂 – True! Very different, but equally beautiful.
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Oh my gosh, the mountains! But also, cool photo of the bird! And what are those little round red and green things in the next two photos? Are they plants?
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Yep, they are plants called Sheep Vegetable because they are supposed to look like sheep all clustered together. Yes, the birds are very cool, but I can’t take credit for this photo. 🙂 If you click on it, you will see the captions.
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That is quite an elevation profile, magical photos, and what a beautiful nonplussed bird! 🌟
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The keas (alpine parrots) can be quite bold and cheeky. We would meet them again on the Kepler Track too.
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Amazing views on the trail today the best yet. And that waterfall is gorgeous..good to have some people in the picture to understand how tall it is. Maggie
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Yep, it was a very special day and the waterfall was a lovely way to finish. Have a good weekend, Mel
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Beautiful surroundings, Mel. You’re good at finding those. Not too keen on steep downhill but you made it. Easy peasy! Onwards, darlin!
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Mother Nature is just the BEST, even if she does throw a few challenges at me every now and then. 🙂
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Glad it wasn’t a complete white out at the top, they are great views aren’t they 😀
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Those sort of mountain views really make me pause and think about how insignificant I am in the grander scheme of things. Hiking can be very grounding! 🙂
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It certainly is Mel 😀
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You are definitely a mountain person. This must have been easy after Everest! Fab photos Mel.
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Well, Jude, it was definitely easier than Everest Base Camp, but not easy per se. It still got the heartrate up, but it was so worthwhile. Have a good weekend. Mel
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I imagine for someone like me it would be really hard, but you are made of tougher stuff (and a lot fitter!)
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Sometimes I think these trails are more a mind game than about fitness levels, but the fitter you are, the more you do enjoy them. Speaking of which…I had better get training! 😉
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Oh, swimming at the base of that cascade would be simply spectacular! As I was reading I was thinking, “Gosh, this should be nothing after EBC and the air should be as thick as honey to her.” And then you go ahead and confirm those very thoughts. 🙂
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Yep, EBC will be my measuring stick for the rest of my life, I think. And I will never take breathing for granted again! 🙂
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New Zealand looks beautiful. It’s on my bucket list.
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This is only a tiny taste of this amazing country. It certainly punches above its weight.
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Wow, it’s stunning. Your photos really capture the beauty – the steep climb was so worth it. I love you saw the colourful keas as well – they sound mischievous but cute at the same time. The waterfall and a swim sounds like the perfect end to the hike!
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Yep, this trail really ticks all the boxes…
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Such a rewarding day, with all those views and the waterfalls!
That’s what I call a great hiking day❤️
Christie
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It was a cracker of a day! And here’s to many more days like this, for both of us. 🙂
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🥰 🥰
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