The Hiking Joy Continues on The Kepler Track, New Zealand – Day 3

Today could not have been more different from yesterday as there were no massive climbs, no knee-breaking descents, and the weather was positively boring. This Track really delivers a little bit of everything and, if you don’t like the weather, there is a good chance it will be completely different tomorrow.

I know it’s early and there is no rush, but the trail is calling my name and it’s a wonderful morning to be out walking…

Day: 3

Date: Thursday, 20 February 2025.

From:  Iris Burn Hut                         To:  Lake Manapouri

Distance (Official): 16.2km            Actual: 16.5km

Progress: 49.4km

Time: 4h6m

Ascent: 202m                                     Descent: 464m

Weather: Clear-ish with a couple of light sprinkles of rain. Cool walking – perfect temperature.

Terrain: Relatively level forest tracks with a couple of stiff climbs to remind us of the distance/terrain we covered yesterday.

Stayed At: Moturau Hut (185m)

General Comments:

• In many ways, these Kepler huts remind me of walking a camino in Spain – multiple bunks shoved into small spaces, a handful of toilets and a common/dining room that is chockful of people – all talking, laughing and cooking at the same time. It’s a nice, happy vibe and the conversation is good. There are a large number of New Zealanders walking this track and they are happy to share their considerable experience and local knowledge. You always learn something if you keep your ears open.
• The downsides of the close confines are the usual myriad of snorers and, if there aren’t windows to open wide, aromas!

• As is the norm, it usually takes me a couple of days to get a system going and last night I finally got my clothes sorted into a handy pile and all my breakfast things gathered into a dilly bag. So when I awoke early this morning (that’s assuming I actually got some sleep), I could just scoop everything up and tip toe out of the dorm room.
• Not that I was the first into the kitchen. An American guy was there getting ready to start his run. Yes, run! He was planning to run the stages we had walked over the previous two days in one day. The thought of running up those mountains that had taken us hours and hours to descend, made my blood run cold. With a cheery farewell, off he went into the early morning dark with his head-lamp a-blazin’.

• It was delightful walking today and my legs were so appreciative of the plentiful stretches of level ground. Whenever there was the slightest rise my legs rebelled, reminding me of all the hard kilometres we had clocked up yesterday. Thankfully, those little rises were few and far between.
• The path stuck pretty much to the forest with endless twists, turns, and around, up and over ridgelines. Water views featured strongly with Iris Burn consistently on my righthand and towards the end, it was replaced by the shores of Lake Manapouri. The glimpses of the Lake through the trees were very pleasant, as was the constant burble of running water.

• I had the track to myself in the early stages until I started to meet walkers coming toward me from Moturau Hut – my destination. Obviously, they were early risers too and excited to be out on such a beautiful trail.
• Some of the new faces (and fresh/clean bodies) were day walkers dropped off by a speed boat and now walking back to Te Anau. As the morning edged on, it became quite busy out there on the track.

Highlights & Tips:

• Moturau Hut is in a magic spot with wonderful views over Lake Manapouri. I lay in bed at night wondering what that strange sound was until the penny dropped – it was waves lapping on the shore.
• Tip: The Lake provides a wonderful opportunity for a refreshing swim. I couldn’t be bothered changing clothes, trying to get them dry etc and made do with a very nice paddle. Just perfect for stiff and tired legs.

• Tip: Sand flies also love it here and they are hungry! What bits of me didn’t get eaten on the Milford Track were fair game by the Lake, and there was much swearing and slapping going on.
• Each of the huts on this track has a ranger on site and it is definitely their kingdom. They love the limelight when providing a briefing each evening describing the trail and its highlights. They also share the all-important weather forecast for the next day and are happy to answer questions about the local environment, flora and fauna. Of course I had to ask a question…
• During the walk to Moturau Hut I noticed these large (about the size/capacity of a standard bathtub) funnels on stands placed randomly throughout the forest. Apparently, these assist with a seed count – measuring the amount of seed dropped by the beech trees each season. Massive seed numbers mean more food for vermin and hence it predicts a boom in mice and rat numbers. The Department of Conservation rangers then respond to this by ramping up their pest control plans. Fascinating.

• Tip: There is mobile phone service at this hut and you can use this to book your shuttles tomorrow, if needed.
• Tip: There are various pick-up/shuttle points at Rainbow Reach and the Control Gates if you have had enough of walking, and don’t want to walk all the way back to Te Anau.

• It’s hard to believe that tomorrow is our last day on the Kepler Track. It has been an absolutely outstanding experience and, just like the Milford Track, I am sad that the adventure is almost over.
• But the good news is that there is one more wonderful walking day ahead.

Sleep well…

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