Life is back to normal and our wonderful +30days strolling through the French countryside on the Camino via Podiensis/Chemin de Saint Jacques now feels like a distant memory. Those memories are happy ones though, and I thought now would be a good time to share some tips and tricks that we learnt along the way.
This is a slightly longer-than-normal post and I hope these tips are of use if you are planning your own walking adventure. If not, enjoy the photos. 😊
Timing/When to Go:
- Walking Season: We started walking on Monday 28 April and finished on Friday 30 May, 2025. Unbeknownst to me, I picked the busiest time of the year to be on the Chemin. May is an incredibly popular time for French people to walk and many people walk 5-7 days, at exactly the same time every single year, as they progress in stages along the path to finish in either St Jean Pied de Port or all the way to Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain. For us, it meant we found the path to be very busy – especially in the first couple of weeks – but it also meant that there were lots of friendly and fascinating people to talk to.
- Weather: May is the end of the Northern Hemisphere Spring, so we got a bit of everything weather-wise. Freezing cold days, way-too-hot days, and just perfect days. We were incredibly lucky to have only two days of rain. Apparently last year some people had three solid weeks of rain in May. Thank you, Weather Gods!
- Mondays: The majority of more regional businesses close on Mondays in France. Sometimes you can find a boulangerie that will open in the morning or a bar/café that will provide coffee and limited food. It’s not guaranteed though, so you need to plan ahead and carry some supplies.
- Public Holidays: There are three public holidays in May. French people take their public holidays very seriously and many businesses close so, same as on Mondays, plan ahead for food supplies and book your accommodation well in advance.
- Rest Days: Consider including a number of rest days in your itinerary to rest the body and to give you time to really explore a place. We stayed in Estaing, Cahors and Condom – all lovely places and it broke the walk into roughly equal stages. Consider also Espallion and/or Conques for extra nights. They are magical spots.
Language:
- It’s Very French: This path is very Frenchin that 92-95% of walkers are from France. Do learn the basics (or more) of the language as it will break down any perceived barriers and the locals really appreciate it. Many French people speak some English so, between their broken English and your broken French, you can have some great conversations and make new friends.
- Bonjour: EVERYONEgreets you with a hearty bonjour out on the path, so make sure you are ready to respond. Bon Chemin or ‘good way/path’ is also important/useful for farewelling other walkers.
- French Classes: Consider doing daily classes on an online programme such as Duolingo. It’s a great way to start to get your ear into the French accent, and learn to speak and read the language. It’s free.
Where to Stay – Accommodation:
- Gîtes: Gîtes are similar to Spanish albergues, although the gîtes are usually better quality and consequently, more expensive. Sometimes you can book private rooms (at an extra cost) with shared bathrooms or even ensuites. Alternatively, dormitoryrooms range from 4-12 beds. Overall, we found the standard of comfort and cleanliness very good. They usually open early April to late October.
- Gîte Communale: These gîtes are run by the local council and are generally more basic, but still an excellent option. We stayed in one in Sauges and had a private room with an ensuite for €20per person. Just check their location as sometimes they are on the outskirts of a town.
- Booking Ahead/Reservations: The first two weeks from Le Puy en Velay are very busy and I recommend you reserve your bed well in advance. If you are walking solo, you may stand a better chance of getting the last bed, but as a couple, it was a safer bet for us to book. Also, don’t forget some villages and towns are very small and may only have one or two places to stay. Check this when you are planning your itinerary.
- Demi Pension: Many gîtes offer bookings on a dinner/bed/breakfast basis. We mixed it up a bit and booked ‘room only’ sometimes, especially if the town had plenty of food on offer. See the Eating section below for more on this.
- Other Accommodation: Booking.com and Airbnb are also good options if you want to upgrade to larger or self-contained accommodation, especially for your rest days.
Money:
- Cash: Cash is King on this path and the majority of gîtes only accept cash. Make sure you are carrying enough to get from one town to the next. This may be a larger amount of cash than you would normally carry and it’s especially important if you are staying on a demi-pension basis.
- ATMs: Most of the larger towns and villages have ATMs. Again, do your research and plan ahead.
- Daily Average Cost: This camino is much more expensive than walking in Spain or Portugal. Depending on how you like to sleep and eat, the minimum average cost per person would be about €50-60. If you eat out more, extra coffees and drinks during the day, and stay in fancier accommodation it may be closer to €80-100pp.
Communication:
- WIFI: The majority of gîtes and cafés, including the communales, have WIFI. The signal strength varies in quality, but it’s still useful.
- Mobile/SIM cards: As you would expect, France has numerous mobile phone service providers. We used Orange and got a 30-day plan with 100GB of data for €16.99. Note: there were a couple of Orange blackspot locations on the Célé variant when we had no service.
- WhatsApp: A lot of gîtes communicate via WhatsApp although I did most my booking ahead via email. Thank you, Google Translate!
- Scripts: Before you leave home, consider typing out your script for making reservations etc and translate it into French. Then you can just cut/paste those French sentences into emails, WhatsApp messages or use it over the phone if you are brave. 😊
Food/Eating:
- Vegetables: We found few meals came with the variety and abundance of vegetables we normally eat at home. We really craved our veges and supplemented meals with bags of mixed salad etc from supermarkets.
- Farmers’ Markets: Almost every town and village have weekly farmers’ markets. The produce they sell there is simply magnificent.
- Demi Pension: As mentioned above, demi pension is a good option if you don’t want to worry about finding a meal at the end of the day. We only had one or two pretty average meals that were not tasty or value for money. Breakfast is very basic with average coffee and bread/jam, and we tried to book without breakfast where possible. Most days we could find something much nicer at a boulangerie along the way. Note: Don’t be railroaded into demi pension if you don’t want it. Some gîte owners view it as an additional money-making thing and sometimes gîtes have simple kitchens where you can prepare your own meals. This is where communales come into their own.
- Carrying Supplies: The availability of food and water varies significantly along the path and is dependent on the distance between towns. Be prepared for boulangeries etc closing at 1230pm and carry snacks and plenty of water, especially if it is hot.
Transport:
- Luggage: There are a number of companies which provide luggage transport services, allowing you to walk just with a day pack. They do limit the size and weight of the bag they will transport so don’t think you can overpack and include the kitchen sink! Have a look at La Malle Postale and Claudine’s Transport. It costs between €7-10 per stage. We noted that the vast majority of walkers on this camino have their bags transported ahead.
- People: The train and bus system in France is very good and most large villages etc are connected by the bus and/or train to larger centres. Ask your gîte owner to assist with information and bookings, if need be. La Malle Postale also provides people transport from many major towns on the Chemin back northwards towards Le Puy en Velay. Blah Blah car service provides passenger transport, although I haven’t used them. Taxis are also an option if you have the budget.
What to Pack:
- Soap: Finding any sort of soap in a gîte or other accommodation is very rare. Carry your own soap or bath gel for human and clothes washing.
- Towel: Some gîtes will hire you a towel for €2-3 per night or carry your own to save money.
- Sleep sack/sheet: Similar to your towel, you can hire sheets for €4-5 per night. I found my silk sleep sack was a comfortable and lightweight option. All gîtes provide blankets, so a sleeping bag is not required. You may also like to take an old pillow slip that you can bin at the end of your walk.
- Footwear: Walking footwear is always a personal choice. I found trail shoes (not boots) were more than sufficient for this trail as it is not overly technical or rugged. Much of the trail is on dirt or paved roads. Also consider packing some comfortable and supportive sandals or sneakers for the end of the day to give your feet a rest and a chance to air out.
- Wet Weather Gear: Yes, it will rain! Make sure you have a good quality pack cover and pack liner. I use a heavy duty plastic bag to line my backpack and everything stays nice, and dry, even in bucketing rain. I also packed gaiters and a quality rain coat.
Guidebooks vs Apps:
- Signage: The signage on this camino is generally excellent and regular enough to keep you heading in the right direction. The red and white blazes are painted on trees, rocks and walls etc and indicate straight ahead, turn left or turn right. Just don’t follow the other coloured blazes that appear often as these will take you on a myriad of different paths, including bicycle tracks. In reality, you could easily walk this camino just by following the blazes and other signs.
- Apps: There are a number of apps you can download to your phone, both free and paid. Buen Camino is a good free option. Also look at Gronze.
- Guidebooks: If you are more of guidebook person, then Dave Whitson’s Camino via Podiensis is a comprehensive English guidebook. It provides some good background and history on many of the places you stroll through. MiamMiamDoDo is the French equivalent without the history, but with maps and far more extensive accommodation listings AND it is updated every year. It’s a handy guide if you have the French language basics. Note: if you can avoid the stages in the guidebooks (i.e. stop early or walk a little further) then you will avoid some of the crowds also following/using the same guidebooks.
The Vibe:
- I admit I was a little worried that this trail would not have the same camino vibe that I have enjoyed in Spain and Portugal. Let me assure you, it has the vibe in spades and the French people were unfailingly friendly and welcoming. They loved that we were Australian and had travelled so far to walk in their country. Even with my basic schoolgirl French, there were many fantastic conversations around the communal dinner table and much laughter.
- Yes, it was a very different camino to the ones I have walked in the past (dare I say it? Slightly more civilised), but equally enjoyable.
I am more than happy to answer any specific questions you may have, so light up the Comments section below.
Bon chemin and buen camino to you!
#travelinspo #Chemindesaintjacques #adventurebeforedementia #buencamino #France #walkinginFrance #hikinginFrance #tipsandtricks #whatyouneedtoknow #greatoutdoors #caminoviapodiensis #exploreonfoot #toptips #caminodesantiago #multidayhikes #longdistancewalking #epicadventures #Frenchculture #Frenchfood #labelleFrance
Life...one big adventure 
Lots of detailed information to chew on and think about. It was fun walking virtually with you both. Thanks, Mel and hopefully you’re feeling much better now x
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Thanks, Suz. Yep, got rid of the lurgy and now trying to convince myself to get out of bed on the cold, dark mornings to get walking again! It’s not happenin’!! 🙂
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You just need a break for a while then the motivation will return. I’ve picked up a head cold, not fun especially the lack of sympathy in our household as you can imagine 😉 I’m keeping the long walks alive until the time is right. Not sure where, but somewhere.
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Yep, timing is everything… -4.2C here this morning!! Not hiking in that! 🙂
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10degs here and it’s freezing 😉
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OMG! I’m comin’ to your place!! 🙂
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It’s wet so let’s swap 😉
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Bring your woollies!
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I will.
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🙂
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Mel, to have walked as far as you did is a terrific accomplishment. Congratulations!
Neil S.
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Thanks, Neil. I am not afraid to admit to a walking addiction! 🙂
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I think I should move to France – it seems that you’ll never have a blue Monday (because everything is closed) 😁. Who needs a guidebook for any Camino when you are a subscriber to Mel’s blog, Life…one big adventure – great tips and tricks! Enjoyed all your photos and thanks again for taking me along!
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That’s my pleasure. Let me know when you are moving and I will come with you!! 🙂
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A great set of tips for anyone wishing to do a camino, but you forgot a very important one. Nay, perhaps the MOST important one: have your massage therapist on speed dial when you get home.
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🙂 – by the time you get home you will be so rested, you will be ready to do it all again! Actually, I saw lots of ads for massage therapists in many villages/towns along the way. They would have done a roaring trade! 🙂
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I am not a long distance walker but I thoroughly enjoy accompanying you on yours. Can’t wait to see where you take me to next. Hope you are enjoying being at home for a while.
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Hey Jude. Yes, it’s nice to be home, but it has been a very cold Winter. -4.2C this morning and big frosts. At least the days are sunny with blue skies. And Yes, always planning the next adventure. 🙂 Have a good day.
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I will read it all ..later and comment. Did you think about sharing your post on a FB group related to the via Podiensis ? It would be welcome I think as you are not promoting a book. 🙂
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Thanks for the tip – I might just do that.
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on July 19 I will post part 4 of my Via Podiensis memory. It has been sitting here on my blog for a while. I spent less time browsing the net . Nice weather for us here in Vancouver. I am enjoying it. Hope you are also happy with your winter weather.
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I hope you get a good response to your book. I am in awe that you have the time, determination and headspace to collate all your memories into a book. Writing blog posts are about the length of my attention span! 🙂
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Very handy tips, thanks Mel. I’d put off any thoughts of walking the French ways but you’ve whetted my appetite. This is definitely on the bucket list now.
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I think you would really enjoy it. It’s different to walking in Spain and Portugal, but equally beautiful and enjoyable. Have a good day
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Ah, what a dreamy vacation! And you guys sure knew how to fuel up with coffee and pastries. Loved the animals and quaint countryside! 😊
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🙂 – I’m not sure if I consider this a vacation, but it was an amazing adventure in a stunning country. I just can’t get enough of France or their pastries!! 🙂
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hi ! it is now July 17 and I finally wanted to spend some time in my cool basement ( very hot today in Vancouver) and read you long post. Well done. All this info would be perfect for any who is dreaming of walking the VP and will help tremendously…. I was a bit surprised that you carried gathers but it is certainly a personal choice. And yes the breakfast – or petiit-dejeuner… I also was getting tired of the bread-butter-jam but sometimes we also had yogurt and orange juice and coffee ( always needed for us). So well done for this fantastic review of your experience in France. If you don’t mind I could share the link if I read that someone is looking for advice. We also walked in May (but started may 16) and it is true that this month is creating a few long WE for the French walkers. And I read that you know Dave Watson ( I did a podcast with him a while back) and I follow his adventures when he post on IG….
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Thanks for your support and Yes, happy for you to share it around to anyone who is planning a stroll in France. Have a good day/evening and stay cool. Mel
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I forgot. Of course I enjoyed your photos. All of them. Will you created some kind of photo-album? will you plan other Camino – next year ?
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I am yet to sort through my photos and I need to do that before the memories really are gone! 😉 Yes, always planning another stroll, but not a camino next year. Hopefully some walks in England instead. Watch this space!
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of course, I will read your adventures. 🙂
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Many thanks for your support.
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“It’s very French” had me laughing 🙂 What a helpful guide, and I’m so glad you had such a great time. Hopefully being settled back home isn’t *too* much of a downer! I’ve not got another trip planned until November so I’m slowly wilting!
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At least you are having a good Summer over there? Or that is what our media is telling us?? Heat wave conditions etc?
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Thats so true, it’s been heat wave after heat wave for 8 weeks here. Its finally a week of rain, which is just as well as my garden is scorched! Our plants aren’t built for no water here 😂
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What climate change???? 😉
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I like the #labelleFrance !!!
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To me, that’s what she is. 🙂
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A great guide! I like the tips on the veggies (I eat a salad every day), the language, and cleaning supplies in particular.
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I’m a practical gal at heart!! 🙂
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This was a great read! I loved the format. Ha ha more civilised … I can relate. I recently walked the WHW in Scotland as a self guided tour. It’s nice to do things in different ways sometimes. Any problems with bed bugs in France?
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Yes, we need to shake it up every now and then and No, no bed bugs thankfully. On the whole, all the accommodation was very clean and well-presented.
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Wow, that’s a lot of logistics to organize! This was really interesting to read, there are a lot of details here I’d never considered about how these camino journeys work.
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Yes, there’s a lot to organise, but it all seems to come together as the days roll out before you. You seem to get in the flow of humanity the camino grapevine works very well. 🙂
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Great summary Mel, I’ve been away for a month so just catching up with people 😀
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Hope you’ve had fun! I need to read your Coast to Coast posts too as its in the calendar for next July!
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Oh that’s a lovely walk, I’ve done it twice, hopefully the fickle English weather will be kind 😀
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We will come prepared with everything! 😉
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