It may seem like I just can’t let the memories of my most recent camino go.
You may be correct there. 😊
I promise though that this will be the final post and hopefully it will act as a one-stop shop (or perhaps research starting point) for other people who may be considering a long or short stroll in France.
First off, if you are just starting your research, search using its four different names – Camino via Podiensis, Chemin de Saint Jacques, Le Puy route and GR65. All these names refer to exactly the same path:
- Camino via Podiensis: the Latin name
- Chemin de Saint Jacques: what the French people call it
- Le Puy route: the geographical reference point, and
- GR65: the name of the Grande Randonnée (GR) or Great Hike route as described by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre (French Hiking Federation).
So, now that we have that cleared up, let’s dive into the Nuts and Bolts of this trail…
Where Is It?
- Start & Finish: The path starts at the beautiful town of Le Puy en Velay, south-west of the large city of Lyon. It ends in the equally beautiful town of St Jean Pied de Port – the official starting point of the very popular Camino Frances – at the foot of the Pyrenees on the border with Spain.
- Distance: The official distance is 735km, but our walk turned out to be 769km as we diverted off the main track to take in the variant through the Célé valley. The Rocamadour variant is also another scenic option.
How to Get to Le Puy en Velay?
- Lyon is one of the largest and closest cities to Le Puy en Velay. It has an international airport and it is possible to fly there from all points of the compass. A regular bus service connects the airport to Lyon’s main train station – Gare Lyon Part Dieu. I understand that there is also a brand new shuttle bus service that will take you direct from the airport to Ley Puy. Very handy.
- If you are flying in to Paris, you can also catch a train direct from Charles de Gaulle airport to Lyon and onwards from there.
- Lyon trains connect direct to Le Puy en Velay with regular schedules. It is a very easy and scenic trip with only one change, and gorgeous views of valleys, rivers and chateaux.
- Apparently, there is also a service called BlaBla Car and regular buses. We didn’t use either of those modes of transport.
How to Do It?
- Independently: Grab your backpack and go. Too easy!
- Luggage Transport: Grab your daypack and have your larger suitcase/bag transported to your accommodation each day. See my Top Tips post for more details.
- Supported: There are also a large number of companies who will book everything for you including booking all your accommodation and luggage transport. A more expensive and inflexible option, but also zero stress. No judgement here.
How Long Does it Take?
- As long as you like! We did the 769km in 30 walking days averaging just over 25km a day. This did include a handful of +30km days. And Yes, they were tough. It is possible to walk as little as 15km a day if you wish.
- With luggage transport, maybe you could walk a longer day or, if you have absolutely no deadline, simply stroll at your leisure.
- Many French people, because they can, return to the Chemin every year to walk 5-7 days. Each year they get a little closer to their goal of St Jean Pied de Port or, even one day, walk all the way to Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain.
When to Go?
- Gîtes: The most popular and plentiful style of accommodation are called gîtes. They vary in price and quality, but on the whole are an excellent option. Apparently, they open late-March or early April (depending on the timing of Easter) and close late-October to mid-November (depending on demand). You could walk at other times of the year, but your choices of accommodation would be severely limited.
- Weather: Everyone has their own personal weather preferences, although I would recommend against walking in Summer. Some sections of the path are very exposed to the elements and water resupply may not be plentiful. Take care and/or plan accordingly.
- May: The month of May is walking season in France meaning lots of people on the trail, but also lots of great conversations and laughs.
What Does it Cost?
- How long is a piece of string? You can travel/walk almost 5-star or sleep in a tent and be cheap and cheerful.
- Compared to Spain: This camino is definitely more expensive than walking in Spain and I estimate we averaged €50-60 per person, per day and that was eating and sleeping simply.
Safety
- This is a very safe path and there were many people, especially women, walking on their own. You still need to be sensible and not place yourself in dangerous situations.
- As mentioned above, carry plenty of water and snacks on some sections of the camino when the towns and villages are quite a distance apart.
- Mobile phone service is readily available on the majority of the trail, although we did strike some blackspots on the Célé variant with our Orange sim provider.
Top Tips including What to Pack: Check out my detailed post here.
Who is the Hike For?
- Women: I estimate that 65% of walkers were female.
- Age: We met people ranging in age from 19years up to nudging 80years. Just pace yourself and plan your days/distances to suit your ability and energy levels.
- Language: This walk is very French so, if you can, pick up the basics (or more if you have the time and inclination) of the French language. You will make more friends and enjoy yourself even more.
What is it Like?
- Stunningly Beautiful: I don’t think I have ever done a more consistently beautiful walk. Every day delivered spectacular views and/or gorgeous stone villages.
- Busy: Walking in May meant that the trail was very busy. It was doable though and we always found a bed at night, especially when we booked ahead.
- Terrain: It’s definitely NOT flat and be prepared for some seriously lung-busting climbs. These are mostly in the first couple of weeks from Le Puy en Velay as you travel through the Massif Central region of France, although they seem to pop up regularly all the way to the Pyrenees. 😊
And for a Daily Description of My Stroll Across France
For a day-to-day description of what we were seeing and experiencing, have a read below:
- Day 1 – here.
- Day 2 – here.
- Day 3 – here.
- Day 4 – here.
- Day 5 – here.
- Day 6 – here.
- Day 7 – here.
- Day 8 – here.
- Day 9 – here.
- Day 10 – here.
- Day 11 – here.
- Day 12 – here.
- Day 13 – here.
- Day 14 – here.
- Day 15 – here.
- Day 16 – here.
- Day 17 – here.
- Day 18 – here.
- Day 19 – here.
- Day 20 – here.
- Day 21 – here.
- Day 22 – here.
- Day 23 – here.
- Day 24 – here.
- Day 25 – here.
- Day 26 – here.
- Day 27 – here.
- Day 28 – here.
- Day 29 – here.
- Day 30 – here.
So, that’s it! The official end of another camino path. I am always sad when an adventure comes to a close, but then that means I have plenty of time to start planning the next one! 😊
A final big Bon Chemin and Buen Camino to you all.
#travelinspo #Chemindesaintjacques #adventurebeforedementia #buencamino #France #walkinginFrance #hikinginFrance #tipsandtricks #whatyouneedtoknow #greatoutdoors #caminoviapodiensis #exploreonfoot #toptips #caminodesantiago #multidayhikes #GR65 #longdistancewalking #epicadventures #Frenchculture #Frenchfood #labelleFrance #bonchemin
Life...one big adventure 
You’ve detailed your walk like a pro and I’m not bored at all, Mel. Bring on more walks. 🙂 Lyon is a city worth a few days to explore. French villages are so beautiful.
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Yes, there are PLENTY of reasons to return to France one day. There is so much I haven’t seen yet.
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I’m pretty certain we wouldn’t see everything in our lifetime. A bit like doing a roadtrip in Australia, exclaiming that it was a long one until we looked at the map 😉
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Agreed, we won’t see everything, but we can give it a red, hot go!! 🙂
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I knew you were going to write that 🤣
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Oh Lordy, I’m getting predictable!! 🙂
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Just your enthusiasm 😊
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🙂 I am nothing if not enthusiastic!!
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We need more enthusiastic people 🙂
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Thank you! x
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It’s a wrap, as they say, Mel! But looking at your map I couldn’t help but focus on bits you didn’t see, like Toulouse and Albi and Carcassonne. So near and yet so far! Let’s face it, I’m just a tourist at heart. Any thoughts on the next extravaganza? xx
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Yes, we missed so much on our recent stroll and that means I just have to go back to France! 🙂 What a burden to bear!? 😉 And Yes, always thinking about the next adventure and looking at a few walks in your home country in July next year. Maybe you can arrange some good weather for us?? 😉
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Me and the weather Gods are on poor terms, Mel. Ask me nearer the time xx
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Bugger, I thought with all those churches you visit in Portugal and Spain, you would have buckets of brownie points!! 🙂
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Nah! I sometimes don’t have change to light a candle xx
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😉
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Mel do you recommend a particular guide book
CATHY
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There were two main ones we noticed on the trail. All the French people carried the MiamMiamDoDo guidebook. It’s in French, but has really good maps and very extensive accommodation listings AND it is updated every year. We carried Dave Whitson’s Camino via Podienis. It’s in English and has decent maps and a good amount of history and back story on places. I do like to read about a place, but it meant doing more research on accommodation options. It is published by an English company called Cicerone. I hope that helps.
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Super helpful and makes the whole idea of walking the Le Puy route way less intimidating. Sounds stunning too, those views!
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It is certainly very doable and probably a lot easier than the way we did it! 😉
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Haha, sometimes the scenic (and slightly harder) route makes for the best memories 😉. Still, love knowing there are easier options
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True, it makes you appreciate the beauty even more.
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thanks again Mel
I have bought my Sandy Brown guides for last 3 caminos through Cicerone
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My pleasure. Just note that the accommodation listed in the guide is limited and somewhat out of date. Use all the usual search engines or the camino grapevine to find more accommodation options. Happy planning. 🙂
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Lovely! Such a beautiful walk – you could write Camino/Chemin guide books 🙂
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Ah, what a job that would be!? To walk and be paid for it…although I think it would be a far more challenging camino than just plain walking. 🙂
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This is a great primer for anyone hoping to do their own camino. Crazy that it has four names. Way to confuse everyone, France! Can’t wait to see where your next adventure takes you (and, by association, me).
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🙂 Many thanks for your kind words. I have been saving your latest post to read as a reward when my work is done! Hopefully tomorrow. Have a good day.
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A good comprehensive summary, but where next?
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Planning a couple of strolls on your sunny isle next year. And yes, I will bring my wet weather gear. 🙂
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Hi Mel – great post! We are planning to do our very first Camino next year, and this is such great information. At this point, we’re looking at the more popular SJPP-Santiago route, but you’ve given us another appealing option. I’ll have a look at all your individual posts for the various stages, as well. Thanks for this!
– Susan
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That’s my pleasure, Susan. Any Camino is a good one and they all have pros and cons. Happy planning. There are some great information resources on the internet and on Facebook etc. Have a great day. Mel
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I understand – you hold on to the memories of a Camino as long as you can! Am I imagining things, or are there photos here that I haven’t seen yet? This definitely makes your post worth it 😁. So, all I have to do now is download your Camino via Podiensis, pack my backpack, and learn French … easy! Buen Camino Mel 🚶♀️➡️🚶♀️➡️
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Easy peasy and Yes, I tried to include some new ones in this post. I took over 1000 photos so I should have a few spare!😁😁📷📷🖼🖼
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