The Views Go on Forever in the Warrumbungle National Park – Coonabarabran, Western NSW

You would have thought camping out under the stars with only kangaroos for company that I would have slept like the proverbial log, but No. I tossed, I turned, and gradually layered on every piece of warm clothing I owned as the night got steadily colder and crispier. I hoped the kangaroos huddled together to keep each other warm!

The day dawned bright and clear, and we were excited to lace up our adventure boots to hit the trail to Mt Exmouth – one of the main hiking trails in the Warrumbungle National Park.

Gulp down that small bucket of coffee and let’s go…

There are a couple of main ways to get to the base of Mt Exmouth. I thought we would head up the Burbie Fire Trail until the friendly ranger at the Visitor Centre suggested that an out-and-back on the West Spirey Creek was far more scenic. I bow down to his superior knowledge.

Trail Name: Mt Exmouth via West Spirey Track

Planned Distance: 16.8km            Actual Distance: 16.8km (that doesn’t happen often)

Ascent: 760m                                  Descent: 821m

Time: 5h12m

Rating: Grade 4 – Steep

Terrain: A little bit of everything. Manicured sandstone steps and wide paths gave way to very steep, rocky paths, loose shale rock and single-file tracks. Some rock scrabbling was also required.

General Comments:

• We wanted to get an early start as, despite the freezing night, the forecast was for unseasonably warm Spring temperatures. As we arrived in Pincham carpark, there were already a few cars about. Perhaps these hikers had started even earlier than us or were camping at one the many basic campsites scattered throughout the mountains.
• You are allowed to camp at designated campsites in this Park, although only one campsite out on the trail has any sort of facilities such as a water tank or toilet. All the others are just cleared patches of ground.

• Today’s beautiful path follows West Spirey Creek for about 2km before branching off slightly south-west towards Mt Exmouth. It is possible to walk a full loop to include Grand High Tops and that would be a very big and beautiful hike.
• Initially the wide, clear path was so easy to stroll along you could readily look about, enjoying the golden early morning colours of the Aussie bush, as well as noticing the countless number of kangaroos.
• For some Aussies, it can be a bit ho hum when it comes to roos, but it is still nice to see them in their natural habitat. Not so much the little things which we only heard scuttling into the dry undergrowth. I was hoping the warm temperatures would not encourage the local snake population to also make an appearance. 😊

• The gentle section of the track was soon done and we arrived at a long, steep section of sandstone steps. It was lovely to see this section so well cared for, however my heartrate and lungs weren’t so appreciative as the climb went on and on.
• There were some brief glimpses back to Siding Spring Observatory, where we visited yesterday and the higher we got, the more we were treated to a gorgeous cool breeze. Just what the doctor ordered and this sweaty hiker wanted!

• Finally, up to the ridgeline, we arrived at Ogma Gap camp and then turning West, we followed a steep single-file track. Through the trees we were high enough to catch sight of the wide agricultural plains to the South – such a contrast to the craggy and rough landscape of the Warrumbungle National Park itself.
• There is an option to take a short detour (1.1km return) off the main track to see another beautiful rock formation called Cathedral Rock and Arch. We skipped this little side trip for now and planned to call in there on our return hike. We were that keen to get to Mt Exmouth! 😉

• After crossing a largish stretch of steep, loose rock (step carefully) the path led us to Danu Gap camp. Yep, another bare patch of ground. By this stage the earlier cool breeze had changed to a gale and we had to retreat back down the path to find a little protection from the wind as we ate our morning snacks.
• There was no avoiding the inevitable though and it was time for the final push up to Mt Exmouth. Mt Exmouth is the highest point in the Warrumbungles at 1,206m. Yes, I have climbed a few steep hills in the past, but this one seemed to be particularly imposing and positively looming.
• Tell me again why I am doing this?

• It was time to drop my eyes from the Heavens to focus on my feet if I didn’t want to trip over or fall over the, at times, steep drop on my left-hand side. It made me concentrate on each step along the narrow path right in front me, rather than the long, steep climb that lay ahead. (I will admit here than even with my vigilance, my two left feet got in the way and I managed to tumble over some sharp rocks leaving me a bit worse for wear.)
• Staying focussed also meant that I didn’t miss a glorious stand of xanthorrhoea or grass trees. According to the Park brochure, they are the most impressive collection in the whole Park. And they were! Considering they only grow 1-2cm each year, that made them doubly impressive.

• Annoyingly the path leads you about 800m West before doubling back for the final climb up to the top of the mountain. I guess that backtracking does make for a slightly gentler ascent up to the top, but at the time…😊
• Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY! The 360° views were simply breathtaking and we chatted about how amazing it would be to camp up there and watch the sunrise…that’s if you could find a clear patch of ground to camp on AND you didn’t get blown off the top in the strong winds!

• Many photos were taken and we both agreed that we were so lucky to be able to complete these sorts of walks and to live in Australia. Life is so good.
• After another snack break, it was time to head back down. Even with the refreshing breeze, we knew we had a warm hike in front of us to get back to the car.
• We could have returned via the Burbie Fire Trail, but that would mean about a 3km walk on hot asphalt back along the main road to Pincham carpark. No thanks.

Top Tips for this Trail:

• There are absolutely no facilities on this trail so make sure you carry plenty of water and snacks.
• Carry a PLB in case of emergency as mobile phone service is patchy and snake bandages etc if it is that time of the year.
• There are toilets and interpretative information at Pincham carpark.

This was a cracker of a walk and it really reinforced the rugged beauty of the Aussie bush and wide, dusty green landscape. Yes, our native bush is probably a bit harsher and craggier than what many of you enjoy, but it still felt great to be out amongst it. 😊

Where do you feel great? What piece of landscape makes you go ‘Ahhhhh’?

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