Today we are picking up where we left off yesterday at Turimetta Beach, to complete the second part of the Manly to Palm Beach trail. The views are still consistently drop dead gorgeous, but it is starting to warm up and I am regretting my lack of both water and swimming costume.
Oh well, onwards and literally, upwards!
Day: 2
From: North Narrabeen To: Palm Beach
Approx. Distance: 17.9km (out of 32.3km)
Total Ascent: 601m Total Descent: 581m
Total Walking Time: 7h37m
Rating: Hard (by AllTrails)
Terrain: Very similar to Part 1 with possibly a few more bush/grass trails. Lots of footpath walking through suburbs and along busy main roads. There must be a reason for this, but it’s a very harsh contrast to the more natural landscapes you walk through. A couple of very steep and hot climbs in this section, especially up Bangalley Head.
Weather: Hot and hazy. I would have given anything for a cooling breeze.
Getting Away at the End: Bus #199 will take you straight back to Manly or change at Mona Vale for an express (#B1) back into the Sydney CBD at Wynyard.
Where to Stay: Accommodation options seem more limited and much pricier in the Palm Beach area. Have a look at the short stay accommodation sites for a few options.
General Comments:
- By this stage of the day, I was fully aware that there were going to be plenty more climbs ahead of me as I started to count up all the beaches and headlands I had yet to visit. Yes, the whole thing would be much shorter as-the-crow-flies, sticking to the main roads, but think of all the wonderful views I would miss out on.
- To distract myself from some of the rigors of the path, I focused on the amazing homes and architecture that I was walking past. Many of these houses would be worth well north of $4million and yet a large number of them were undergoing renovation and expansion. I am not sure that the cost-of-living crisis has hit the Northern Beaches, well, certainly not these beachside homes.
- As the kilometres ticked by, there were fewer and fewer people on the trail. Maybe all the early morning walkers had gone off to their jobs and the rest had decided the beaches, and waves were a far more sensible option.
- I was interested to note that the few people I did pass were obviously visitors, like myself. I paused and chatted for a while with a German family as we all ‘admired’ a car parked at a very interesting angle i.e. definitely off the home’s driveway and precariously close to a steep drop off the cliff. Maybe that is a big downside of living on the edge of the ocean?
- I kept toiling on and as the heat really kicked in, it dawned on me that I had thought this path was only 30km when it is actually closer to 33km (or 35km depending on which map you believe). Three more kilometres doesn’t sound much in the scheme of things, but when they come at the end of a walk, it can feel a bit like pulling teeth.
- The views from Bangalley Head were an excellent distraction from my tired legs, as were the sight of dolphins charging through the waves, way below me. Ah, to be a dolphin for a day! 😊
- As I mentioned above, if you are so inclined, bring/wear your swimmers underneath your walking clothes. There are so many beaches and ocean pools to enjoy on this trail and, if you split the walk over two days, you would have plenty of time to enjoy them.
- Note: Do pay attention to the signs on the beaches and always swim between the flags. All the way up the coast today, the beaches were closed due to the wild weather of previous days and lingering strong currents.
- Yes, there did seem to be plenty of people in the water when I walked past and I could only assume they were locals, and were very familiar with these waters.
- Birdlife was more prolific on this second part of the Trail. I noticed/heard parrots, corellas, magpies, herons, kookaburras, seagulls and whip birds. No doubt there were a tonne more that my inexperienced ears missed.
- The ruggedness of the coastline delivered breathtaking views at every turn. Climbing up high and walking along the top of the sandstone cliffs delivered the best views over the bluest of waters and of crashing waves.
- You may like to consider bringing hiking poles to help on both the ups and downs. I didn’t think I would need them, but they would have been handy in some sections.
- Finally, I rounded the last headland and could enjoy the sweeping views of Palm Beach and Barrenjoey Headland. Those views were a wonderful reward for a long (and hot) day on the trail.
- For those of you who don’t mind an Aussie soap opera, Palm Beach is where they film the Aussie soapie staple – Home and Away. Not letting the facts get in the way of a good story, Palm Beach is renamed Summer Bay and you can read more about it here.
Top Tips for this Trail:
- To see what awaits you on the first part of this trail, have a look here.
- Sun Protection: Sunscreen and a good hat are a must for this trail. It’s not only the direct sun you have to contend with, but also the reflected light from the ocean. Take care and slip, slop, slap…
- Water: Bring a refillable water bottle and top up at the bubblers located at each of the surf clubs you pass.
- Footwear: This is not a technical trail, so you don’t need hiking boots. Sneakers or walking sandals would do the job nicely – just aim for something with a good grip to handling the rock scrabbling, slippery sandstone and a few wet areas.
- Signage: Please note there is NO official signage for this trail. There are some random Bicentennial Coastal Walkway signs on the northern sections, but not enough to make them useful.
- AllTrails App: With the lack of any sort of official signage and my complete lack of local knowledge, the AllTrails app was a functional option. I did find it slow to ‘catch up’ to me to reveal my true position and sometimes it showed me doubling back on myself, which definitely wasn’t the case. I do admit to blundering about a bit and missing a few turn offs (including Whale Beach in its entirety), and the app was happy to inform me very loudly that that was the case! Until the local councils start to work together to improve signage along the way, AllTrails or your own maps on Google Maps are the best options.
- Public Transport: If you have an Opal Card you can tap on/off the buses to pay your fare. Buses are accessible not far off the trail that will take you back to Manly or back into the Sydney CBD. Allow at least 90minutes to get back to the Sydney CBD from Palm Beach.
- Food: There are very few cafés etc when you leave the beach areas and head into the suburbs. Make sure you do carry plenty of water and the odd snack, if need be.
While it had been both a tough and enjoyable hike, it really only whetted my appetite to return and walk it all over again. Next time, I’ll split it over two days so I can meander down a few hidden paths and also take a few dips in those inviting waters.
What do you think? Care to join me a return visit?
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Life...one big adventure 