Date: Thursday, 9 July 2026
Day: 3
From: Rosthwaite via Helm Crag To: Grasmere
Start Walking: 817am End Walking: 322pm
Distance (Planned): 14.5km Distance (Garmin): 15.1km
Progress: 54.7/306km
Ascent: 693m Descent: 680m
Weather: Way too warm again and we were sweating buckets again. Thankfully a bit of a breeze up high.
Stayed At: Jackson’s Café & Bar
General Comments:
• Yes, yet another warm day for us and while it is not as hot as further South, it is definitely making our walking/climbing a bit more challenging.
• It would be great to be able to start walking a bit earlier in the morning, but the B&Bs are pretty strict with their timing for breakfast, so we just start walking as soon as we can.
• Today was only a short day, but certainly not an easy one. We have been told that the first 5 days of this walk are the toughest and we can definitely see why.
• The day started out mildly enough and then it was one long slow climb up to Lining Crag. Believe me there was endless puffing and panting on my part and plenty of stops to catch my breath.
• These stops are perfect opportunities to admire the views of the surrounding hills, valleys and to look back at how far we have come. I am always interested to see people standing on neighbouring ridgelines and distant mountains. There are paths everywhere here, not just the Coast to Coast Path and we have met a lot of day walkers.
• It’s quite an international walk too with lots of Germans, a smattering of Americans and we met another lady from Aus (Walgett actually).
• The app provided by RAW Travel shows a number of diversions and recommended paths and seeing we were up so high, we thought we would check out Helm Crag. It is basically another ridgeline which delivers yet more stunning views, especially down to Grasmere – our destination for today.
• We had been warned that Grasmere was very touristy and busy, but by the time we got here, most of the visitors had gone home and we had the place pretty much to ourselves. We strolled into the tiny gingerbread shop, visited Wordsworth’s grave and found a pub for a cleansing ale, and dinner. Grasmere – tick!
Top Tips:
• Diversions: If you have anything left in the tank, do consider taking some of the recommended diversions. They will add a little distance (and perhaps elevation) to your day, but they are really worthwhile.
• Water: Again, there is nowhere to collect water on this trail unless you treat it, so carry plenty.
Have a good day everyone.
Life...one big adventure 
That was a stunning day, Mel. Gingerbread, yummy. Have a good day x
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Will do. You too. X
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Great photos Mel. It’s very green.
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Yes, it’s amazing for ‘heatwave’ conditions!
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That first photo is a stunner, Mel! I can see the heat haze. Hopefully it cools for you soon. It’s such a pretty part of the world. (I seem to’ve missed Day 2 but will backtrack) xx
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It was another scorcher again today, Jo. Hopefully about 5 degrees C cooler tomorrow. We just weren’t expecting it to be like this!🥵🥵
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Nobody ever does! It’s an exceptional summer, Mel… unfortunately. Cooler here this weekend and I’m loving it xx
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Go you. I’m envious! And we have learned that English B&Bs don’t have fans! Ugh!
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The Lake District is stunning, there is a reason for it being so green, so you have hit unusual weather. I liked Grasmere, had a lovely walk around the lake and bought some gingerbread of course. The Herdwick sheep are so pretty too.
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Grasmere wasn’t as big or as busy as we were expecting, but then we did leave town before the buses arrived this morning. I love all the old stone houses and dry stone walls. It’s an amazing skill to build like that
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A nice size lake to walk around. And yes, those dry stone walls are works of art, found all over North Yorkshire, the Lakes and Peak District. Cornish hedges are pretty good too.
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Oh, that’s really beautiful – I love the green valleys (not necessarily the uphill climbs). Grasmere sounds like a good place to be after such an exhausting day on the trail – for gingerbread and that cold ale 😉.
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Both hit the spot! 😁
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There’s no doubt we’re experiencing some extreme weather but it sounds like you’re both getting your stride! The eastern Lakes is beautiful, enjoy 😁
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Everywhere we look is beauty, Jim. We can hardly believe it.
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2 more days to go before the trail seemingly gets easier. 🤞Hopefully the weather was a little kinder to you today💕
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and now one more day left. Planning on an early start tomorrow to walk when its only 21C and not 29C. Who would have thought that the UK could generate such temperatures?
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Stunning pictures!
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Many thanks. It’s a stunning part of the World.
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For years Grasmere was our Lake District base for anything from a weekend to a full week. So many walks on the door step. It is touristy, but we usually went out of season so not too bad. You won’t have had time to visit it but for a long time I fantasised about running the bookshop there!
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Unfortunately the book shop was closed when we walked past. It looked like a cracker of a shop. Yes, I am sure you would have a completely different experience out of season – more of a quiet beauty about the place rather than the commercial side of the village.
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I love that the bookshop is called Sam Read!
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Yep, I looked long and hard in the window! 😄📚📚
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Stunning, and so green!
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How long the green lasts with all the heat will be the question, but it does make for beautiful views in every direction.
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Walking amongst Englands green & pleasant land! Looks beautiful. Hope the scenery takes your mind off those hills. All very interesting. Well done.
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Thanks, Kerry. Our last big day of hills today and then things will get a little better…We have been told! 😉
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