Date: Wednesday, 8 July 2026
Day: 2
From: Ennerdale Bridge via Haystacks To: Rosthwaite
Start Walking: 853am End Walking: 525pm
Distance (Planned): 24km Distance (Garmin): 21.2km
Progress: 39.6/306km
Ascent: 629m Descent: 614m
Weather: Too damn hot for hiking! Clear as a bell, not a cloud in the sky.
Stayed At: Yew Crags B&B
General Comments:
• OMG! That is the hardest days work I have put in for a long time! (And that explains why I am a day late posting this blog post. Last night I could hardly string a sentence together, I was just so tired.) But I will try to start from the beginning…
• We have booked this trip through an Australian company called RAW Travel and as part of the deal, today was a guided day i.e. we had a private guide to share her local knowledge and keep us on track.
• Super-fit Rachel turned up with her gorgeous Springer Spaniel called Evie and they were excellent company for what turned out to be a BIG day.
• The PiC and I thought we would tackle the high route over the mountains and luckily Rachel counseled us out of that one. When they say high, they REALLY mean HIGH! Instead, we chose the Haystacks route which was PLENTY high enough to turn us into hobbling zombies by the end of the day…but boy, was it beautiful!?
• The significance of the Haystacks route is that Alfred Wainwright’s ashes were scattered at a small tarn (lake) right up on top of the ridge line. He was the main proponent of the Coast to Coast route and this was his favorite spot. According to Rachel, a lot of other people think this is a pretty special place to sprinkle ashes and we even saw a man hiking with a bunch of flowers! Maybe to commemorate someone?
• The killer today was the relentless heat and humidity. There was no breeze to break it and little shade to provide any sort of relief. Even Rachel said she had never experienced this sort of weather on the trail. While the blue skies are vastly preferable to rain (and it would an unpleasant day’s walk in the rain), if someone can arrange to knock about 8-10 degrees C off the daily totals, it would be much appreciated.
• Even the locals can’t believe the weather and they are flocking to the hills.
Top Tips:
• Shorten the stage?: maybe consider shortening the stage by walking to the last point of the track past Ennerdale Water, then get a lift back to Ennerdale Bridge. The next day, get a lift back and go up and over the spectacular hills.
• Walking Poles: Don’t attempt this trail without them.
• Water: There is nowhere to collect water on this trail unless you treat it, so carry plenty.
• Knees: I hope you have good ones. 😁
Happy walking, everyone!
Life...one big adventure 
Wonderful – this was one of my Dad’s favourite sections of the walk. I love the view to Ennerdale Water, and the Lakes are just stunning. But like you say, way too hot for hiking – but at least great for photos 🙂
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It’s a very special part of your World. The mountains and views are just incredible.
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Magic. I’m really liking the idea of dealing with RAW Travel in the near future. Beautiful part of the UK though not liking those rocky descends uphill no problem. Well done, Mel & Co for surviving that leg of the journey.
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Unfortunately or fortunately, there are way more rocks to come, Suz.😊
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You’ll enjoy it, Mel 😊
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😊
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Spectacular scenery Mel. I must say it was a lot more relaxing reading your reports of Day 1 compared to Day 2!! Just when I thought that you were going to enjoy a relaxing and somewhat ‘easy’ walk this time around. Of course I should have known better!! Looking forward to the updates. X
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Thanks, Di. We have been told that the first 5 days are the hardest and then things level out a bit. There’s nothing like starting with a bang!🤣 xx
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What an adorable dog! And also, lovely views. Sounds unpleasantly hot, but pretty nonetheless.
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Evie just loved all the streams and tarns along the way. I would have loved to have thrown myself into that cold water too!
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My legs ache just looking at the photos, Mel. Grateful that I can indulge in all that beauty just looking over your shoulder xx
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We are actually quite surprised at how our bodies are holding up. The heat is causing some blister issues, but otherwise the ol’ legs keep plodding along. 😁 xx
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So, maybe we should wish for cloudy days then (but without rain). The advantage of going for a hike high up in the mountains, are the views … but what it does to your legs is another story! I think you should have followed Evie’s example – fall into the nearest puddle of water! Beautiful photos 😊.
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Yes, we were sooooo envious of her. Today we saw some other hikers swimming in a different tarn and that looked like heaven…if only we didn’t have another 6km to walk afterwards! 🚶🏼♀️🚶♀️
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Ugh, I can’t imagine tackling this in that kind of heat. What a trooper you are! Thankfully you were rewarded with spectacular scenery!
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Apparently this is the longest heatwave since 1976! Just our luck.🥵
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We visit the Lake District quite often and I know that view of Buttermere, though I wouldn’t hike that high these days. It’s such a beautiful area, as you are discovering!
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Around every corner and over every hill is yet another wonderful view. No wonder it is so popular with walkers.
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Mel – your account brings back many happy memories, yet your “Day 2” was so different to our’s. Torrential rain certainly made our day memorable. Our son took the “high route” and the 100 mph winds changed his perspective… This was the most tiring day on our C2C. Thanks for bringing back the memories!
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That’s my pleasure, Peter. Glad to be sharing a beautiful route in slightly different weather conditions! 😁
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Although the weather is really weird all over the world, with many extreme temperatures, I was wondering maybe if May or June are better months to do this hike?
Christie
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I really have no idea, Christie. I think it is just luck of the draw. I have heard of people getting rained on all day, every day of this walk. So far, so good for us. 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻
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Stunnjng views indeed. Reading your posts in a strange order, but loving your coast to coast adventure.
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😆 whatever works! And we are loving every day too.
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