I know I am a bit odd, but some old buildings really make my heart sing. They fire up my imagination and transport me back in time when public buildings were designed with grace, grandeur, and a healthy dose of ego.
The Royal Exhibition Building in Melbourne ticks all those boxes and more.
On previous visits to Melbourne, this site had always been on my radar, but it never quite made it into the itinerary. On a recent wedding anniversary trip to Melbourne, I was excited to finally secure my tour ticket.
It was definitely worth the wait.
What:
- The Royal Exhibition Building is the largest, continuously-operating Exhibition Hall in the World. Built in 1881 for the Melbourne International Exhibition, “the buildings and its associated gardens are a rare intact reminder of the 19th century’s international exhibition movement, which showcased the products of the industrial revolution, promoted the wonders of the technological age and fostered the global exchange of products and ideas”. (Source: interpretive signage)
- This Building was World Heritage listed by UNESCO in 2004, even before the listing of the Sydney Opera House. Yes, Melbourne vs Sydney rivalry is alive and well! Interestingly, one of the UNESCO criteria is that the building should still be used for its original purpose. That’s 145 years of exhibitions, displays, vaccinations, concerts and dances, and that certainly beats the relative youngster that is the Sydney Opera House.
- I signed up to a Royal Exhibition Building guided tour ($23pp) as it’s the only way to get inside the building without attending an event. And what a tour it was!!
- It turned out that I would be guided by two tour guides and I was the only person on the tour. Instead of a tour, it was more like a long, rambling conversation between friends and I loved every moment.
- Both Nina and Matt were extremely passionate about the building and shared their personal highlights and quirky facts, and figures. As expected, the building has had a very colourful history, being home to wartime dances, university exams, Covid19 testing/vaccination and also the grounds used as the temporary home for £10 Poms in the 1950s and 60s.
- The tour started at the large doors opposite the ultramodern Melbourne Museum, before heading up the stairs to a verandah that skirts the wings of the Building.
- I saw paint scrapings that revealed original painted stencil designs underneath and heard the story of how the original gas lights were replicated down to the finest detail because the manufacturer was still in business (from 1881) and still had the original plans! Can you believe it?
- Unfortunately, the Royal Exhibition Building has suffered like many other old buildings with a whole wing demolished “in the name of progress”.
- In fact, we are very lucky that the building exists at all as it is was threatened with complete demolition in the 1980’s. It was saved by one vote!
- Down into the bowels of the building I went where there is a display of historic photos and up onto the roof I went, to enjoy a stroll around the Promenade.
- The views up there were magnificent of all points of Melbourne – North, South, East and West – and down to Carlton Gardens. What a contrast the Exhibition Building is with the ultra-modern Melbourne CBD.
- Unfortunately, my photos don’t do the place justice with flaring natural light inside and grey skies and outside. Trust me, it is a gem.
Where:
- 11 Nicholson St, Carlton, VIC, 3053
- The Exhibition Building is located directly in front of the Melbourne Museum and is surrounded by the Carlton Gardens.
When:
- The tours run twice per day (book early as they do sell out) and are scheduled to take one hour. I was lucky to enjoy a much longer tour because the three of us talked so much! 😊
- The Royal Exhibition Building is booked pretty much solid and opens its doors for a whole range of different events. They were setting up for an Accessible Arts display when I visited. I imagine you would have to pay an entrance fee to get through the doors.
Why:
- To admire a beautiful old building.
- To learn about an essential piece of Melbourne’s history.
How:
- The Royal Exhibition Building is an easy stroll from the Melbourne CBD.
- I suspect you could also catch a tram or bus to this area. Get off at the Museum and the Exhibition Building is right next door.
- You could also catch a taxi or an Uber.
Who:
- History lovers will enjoy the ‘time travel’ nature of this tour.
- Architecture lovers will admire the traditional design elements and how the building has been lovingly restored – a never-ending process.
- As you can imagine, there are quite a few steps and stairs in this old building, but there are modern lifts to most levels on the inside. I recommend you check the access, especially if they are in the process of setting up for an event. You cannot access the main floor if that is the case.
- Even though I didn’t walk as far as Jo does on Mondays, I think she would enjoy this stroll for something different.
I was a very happy girl as I walked away from the Royal Exhibition Building. My history cup was full, I had learnt a tonne of stuff, and I had met some lovely people who truly loved the Building, and Melbourne’s history in general.
It’s highly recommended.
Have you visited a building that made your heart sing? If Yes, which one?
P.S. If you want a cracking read about World Fairs, similar to Royal Exhibitions, grab a copy of The Devil in the White City by Erik Larsen. It’s a true story, a fascinating insight into the concept, the politics involved in hosting a Fair, and includes a serial killer.
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