Date: Saturday, 11 July 2026
Day: 5
From: Patterdale To: Bampton
Start Walking: 803am End Walking: 301pm
Distance (Planned): 22km Distance (Garmin): 18.9km
Progress: 88/306km
Ascent: 894m Descent: 796m
Weather: Still too warm, but a beautiful breeze blew all day.
Stayed At: The Mardale Inn, Bampton
General Comments:
• Today we left the Lake District and the National Park, but not before we clambered up yet more mountains. Consider it a parting gift. 😄 It’s been interesting that we have been walking through the National Park for days and yet you really wouldn’t know it. No signs, no infrastructure, no park staff, dogs everywhere and people free-camping wherever they want. It’s a very ‘hands off’ approach to parks and conservation.
• Not that we are complaining. It’s just a stark contrast to home.
• Our first challenge was the mountain we could see out our B&B window and thankfully it wasn’t quite as scary as it looked. It delivered yet more gorgeous views, including watching the start of the marathon swimming race I was telling you about in my last post. A swim at that stage of the walk would have been very nice.
• Up we popped onto the first ridgeline (Yes, the first of many ye olde false summits) and there was a man sitting on a chair with a high vis vest on and looking very official. Of course we had to stop to find what this was all about and it appears we were in the middle of a 100km running race!!! The runners had started at midnight and we were standing at the 61km mark. The first runner went through at 530am!!! Yes, 61km in 5.5hours! Now, that is fit!
• We said our goodbyes and continued on and up to Angle Tarn. The promo material state that this is the most beautiful tarn in the Lake District and I think they may be right. We just had to sit and rest a while to enjoy the view.
• It was very busy on the trail today being a Saturday and, I think school holidays started yesterday. There were a couple of mountain bikers who were doing it very hard on the rough and steep terrain. One guy even had to carry his bike until he got to more manageable terrain. That definitely didn’t look like fun.
• Despite the increased number of people, we are seeing plenty of familiar faces and that is creating a friendly vibe. A bit like a Camino, really.
• Today we hit the highest point on the Coast to Coast Path. We were supposed to walk to Kidsty Pike at 780m, but had been told (that handy local intel again) that the descent was an absolute killer on the knees. Instead, just before the Pike we took a diversion to High Raise which still delivered some elevation – 804m – so we don’t feel like we cheated and yet preserved our knees to walk another day. 😁
• Tonight we are staying in a community pub about 2km off the trail. As the trail takes us through a lot of small, out of the way places sometimes accommodation is not readily available or of a sufficient standard. Somehow yesterday turned out to be shorter than the guidebook stated, so the extra 2km was no chore.
Top Tips:
• Honesty boxes: We knew we were getting close to civilisation and out of the National Park when we spotted the first of many ‘honesty’ boxes. These contain water, juices and snacks. You leave your 1pound and take your pick. That would be very handy if you were caught short.
• Mobile phone coverage: You can’t rely on your mobile phone in this area as mobile phone service is patchy or non-existent.
Here’s to some gentler terrain tomorrow.
Life...one big adventure 
More beautiful landscapes I can admire without my knees complaining. I’ve never understood how anyone can run those ultra marathons (or run any marathon) especially on terrain like this.
LikeLiked by 2 people
I agree, Jude. When I see those runners coming towards me (more likely flying past me) it makes me feel positively sane!🤣
LikeLiked by 1 person
gosh you are seeing some very beautiful countryside. Loving it & a little bit envious…only a little bit 😘
LikeLiked by 1 person
We certainly have started with a bang in the beauty stakes. I can’t wait to see the contrasting scenery as we head further along the Path. Melx
LikeLike
I did enjoy that, Mel! Especially since I’m sitting quietly by the castle gates in Silves, having just demolished a scone with jam and cream. Had to be done. It’s Mick’s birthday xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks for taking one for the team, Jo. I really appreciate the sacrifices you make for me!!🤣🤣 Melxx
LikeLiked by 1 person
The guy carrying the bike is in superb shape. I could carry it, but only for maybe 100 feet! Your walk through England is an excellent idea. Beautiful terrain.
LikeLiked by 1 person
He had overtaken us earlier on the trail and all of a sudden, he was behind us. He had taken a wrong turn and ended up on the wrong mountain! He wasn’t all that happy about it!😁
LikeLiked by 1 person
thanks for bringing us back to the Lakes. Enjoy the Dales!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Such a contrast!
LikeLike
The Lake District is just as beautiful as the poets claimed. I’m with you, save the knees!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It truly is postcard material. And Yes, I figure I am going to need my knees for a few more walks yet, so I had better look after them. 😉😊
LikeLiked by 1 person
What – 100km running? Nooo, not this girl! I’d rather walk (and stop frequently to catch my breath 😂). And enjoy the views … because boy, you had some really stunning views on Day 5!
LikeLiked by 1 person
And today, even more crazy people running across the hillsides…for fun! Not even a race! It wouldn’t be the way I would choose to spend my Sunday!😁😁
LikeLike
The landscape is truly amazing, I can see why Lake District is so famous.
Enjoy the rest of the trek🥰
Christie
LikeLiked by 1 person
We were so lucky to enjoy it under blue skies. I understand that is a rare thing. 🤩
LikeLiked by 1 person
More beautiful scenery – amazing. Any idea what happened to the mole? I never saw one in 36 years in England – plenty of molehills, but never an actual mole. I’m impressed that you also captured the fly perched atop its head!
LikeLiked by 1 person
No, sorry. He was just lying on the side of path. We had been wondering what was making all the piles of fresh dirt in the paddocks and put two and two together when we saw it. And as far as my photography skills are concerned, it was more by good luck than good management!🤣😁🥰
LikeLiked by 1 person
Interesting to hear your perspective on National Parks Mel, I suppose ours are less controlled than those in other countries (a lot smaller though) and we don’t have rangers although there is a big debate about traffic volume and fly campers leaving rubbish in the National Parks going on at the moment so I can see more regulation coming
LikeLiked by 1 person
It would be nice to strike a happy balance between the two extremes, but somehow governments never seem to be able to do that. Regardless, it’s great to see so many people enjoying The Great Outdoors. Thanks for your feedback, Jim.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s a great picture of Brothers Water by the way, you must have a good zoom? You’ve got Red Screes, Middle Dodd and High Hartsop Dodd there 😁
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh lordy, Jim. I just point the phone and shoot!🤣🤣 Glad I did something good though!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Lovely!!! Those mountain runners always make me feel ill. I remember climbing up one mountain or another in the Lakes, and every 2 seconds some gazelle like runner would zip past me.
LikeLiked by 1 person
At least those runners make me feel remotely sane!😆 And the hi-vis man reckoned a lot wouldn’t make it all the way. Full marks for trying though!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Have always fancied food out at The Mardale Inn. Bampton is a nice place to visit and theres a good walk up knipe Scar, though not as epic as your hike!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Agreed. The Mardale Inn was a real highlight. Excellent food, super friendly staff and a nice ethos. We have been impressed that most of our hosts are walkers too and van tell us lots about the area and the C2C Path. They love their little patch of them UK.
LikeLiked by 1 person