Date: Wednesday, 15 July 2026
Day: 9
From: Keld To: Reeth
Start Walking: 810am End Walking: 212pm
Distance (Planned): 18.5km Distance (Garmin): 20.6km
Progress: 166.5/306km
Ascent: 414m Descent: 526m
Weather: I called it fog, but was corrected by a local. It was mist! Thick mist until 1pm. Lovely and cool.
Stayed At: The Buck Hotel
General Comments:
• We woke up this morning with the valley completely covered in mist (not fog) which would lift, then come back in again. In was very atmospheric and created a lovely, cool temperature for walking.
• The mist eventually lifted about lunchtime.
• We really are experiencing a wide range of weather on this walk and thankfully, still no rain. The Weather Gods are smiling on us.
• There are two walking route options to get from Keld and Reeth – the high and low. While we are always up for a challenge, our guidebooks described the high route as a moonscape. Apparently it still shows the signs of the old intensive lead mining activity up there, complete with rusted equipment etc. That didn’t sound all that attractive and considering the thick mist would obscure much of the view, it was an easy choice to make.
• Instead we followed the River Swale most of way to Reeth through the Swaledale Valley. It was very picturesque path and again, very different scenery to what we have walked through during the past 9 days. We love that each day on this trail delivers something new.
• The route took us slightly longer than planned as we were on the hunt for morning tea. We had read that if we took a small diversion from the path to the small village of Muker, we would enjoy the best scones, jam and cream. That may have been the case…if the café had been open!🙃
• We had high hopes again at the larger village of Gunnerside, but were disappointed again. Today was not our cream tea day!
• Reeth is a lovely village and it was positively jumping when we arrived. Cars and people everywhere. My guidebook says it was used as the location for filming the 1980s TV series, All Things Great and Small, so that gives you an idea of the style of the place.
• We tried to stay up and, with the locals, watch the England v Argentina soccer game at the pub. After a day on the trail, sleep was more important and we left them to their misery. 😁
Top Tips:
• Route: Take the high route if you are interested in mining heritage and it’s a clear day.
• Snacks: Take food in case cafés decide not to open or you arrive before they get around to it.
The days are flying by! Enjoy every one!
Life...one big adventure 
A misty day on a hike is always nice (especially after you’ve had a few hot days)! I guess you’ll have to eat two creamy scones when you find it – to make up for the non-scone day 😁.
LikeLiked by 1 person
As always, I like the way you think, Corna. 😅 Usually on a walk, I lose weight, but not on this one!😁😁
LikeLiked by 1 person
While I don’t like walking in the mist/fog, it does make the landscape look more mysterious. Half way there! Maggie
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes, we can hardly believe it. We have a rest day tomorrow and that will be good to recharge the batteries. Have a good day, Maggie
LikeLike
I hope you’re resting somewhere with scones, Mel. You’re getting closer to my home territory now. I love seeing the sun break through the morning mist. Enjoy your day off! xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
One more walking day today before a rest day and we have a hot lead on some award-winning scones at a farm in the way! Watch this space!😁🥰
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ah, yes- the shepherdess’s farm. A TV series was made around her and her youngsters xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
We walked past the farm on the way to Keld the other day and didn’t think to stop for the cream tea there. The hunt continues….🎂🍰☕
LikeLiked by 1 person
Really enjoying this series about your wander 😉 I used to live in this area so good memories returned reading this one, here’s hoping the rest is as good
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks, Brian. It’s a very special part of your country. We are lovin’ it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’ve noticed you end your walks around 2pm each day so what do you do in the afternoons / evenings? I’m sure you must rest, but are you exploring the local area too?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes, Jude, we try to rest our feet and legs a bit after the day’s walk. While our bodies are holding up well, our feet are sore by the end of the day. After the usual shower etc, we will then go for a walk around if there is something to look at or adjourn to the pub for and early dinner. Then we sleep!😁
LikeLike
I hope you are finding some good English pubs.
LikeLiked by 1 person
We definitely are and trying lots of your warm beer!😅
LikeLike
I love the rolling dales with their stone walls and buildings. Just as gorgeous in the mist. You’re making me long to go back there! We are heading to Yorkshire soon, but not that part.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Prior to coming to the UK for this walk, it wasn’t really an area I knew much about, but we are loving it, Anabel. You are so lucky to live so close .
LikeLike
I love the diversity and ever changing landscape on this incredible journey. I hope you are able to source some delicious scones along the way. Enjoy your rest day!
LikeLiked by 1 person
We are loving it too. It, and the weather, have really surpassed our expectations. We know we are incredibly lucky and privileged to do this.
LikeLike
I’m stating the obvious: the English countryside is beautiful.
LikeLike