The one good thing about finishing the day climbing up and camping at the top of a steep hill is that theoretically you do not have to face that climb first thing the next day…or that is the theory anyway. Theories can always be tested and proven wrong.
Today was our first normal day i.e. one stage per day. We were determined to have a leisurely start and savoured having the entire campsite to ourselves. We learnt though that starting late means that you lose some of the precious cool hours.
Logistics:
Date: Monday 21 March, 2022
From: Aire River, Victoria
To: Johanna Beach
Official Distance: 13.6km
Actual Distance: 14.3km
Total: 59.58/103km
Time: 5h17m
Ascent: 432m Descent: 374m
Weather: Beautiful blue sky and then completely overcast.
Stayed At: Johanna Beach Great Ocean Walk (GOW) campsite
General Comments:
- It was a joy to wake up to the sound of birds hopping around the tent, their bustle and busyness getting ready for the day. If you are a bird lover/watcher, you will be beside yourself with both the quantity and diversity of birds all the way along this path. If you can’t see them, you can still enjoy their calls and songs. The campsites seem to be the domain of the Superb Fairy Wrens and it was nothing to have 20 of them hopping around our feet seeking out any mislaid crumbs. They were so sweet to watch.
- This was our third night in the tent and we were slowly getting into the camping groove – pitching the tent, prepping dinner etc. We were both sleeping really well (exhaustion?) and the Nemo Tensor Insulated mattresses were surprisingly comfortable. If only there wasn’t such a rigmarole to undertake a midnight wander – unzip, unzip, unzip, zip, zip, wee wander, unzip, unzip, zip, zip, zip and limbo back into the sleep sheet and sleeping bag. All without disturbing the other resident of the tent? Dreamin’!
- Today delivered us paths through coastal scrub then high on exposed ridgelines for limitless views in every direction. I felt so privileged to access this landscape that is normally off-limits to everyone not on foot. I kept telling myself to stop taking photos and that was simply impossible.
- What goes up must eventually come down, including a very steep descent into Johanna Beach. To get to our final destination for the day, involved a 2km slog along Johanna Beach in soft sand. Walking in soft sand is tiring at the best of times, even more so with a loaded pack on your back. Each step seems to sink that much deeper than the last. Again, we had to be very conscious of the tides. The waves were rough and unpredictable meaning you could not walk too close to the water seeking firmer sand underfoot, without the risk of getting a drenching.
- The Johanna ‘river’ dissects the beach and there are plenty of warnings in the guidebook about attempting to cross it at high tide. Not being a coastal-dweller, I was taking all these tide warnings very seriously. We chose to cross (boots off, socks off) about 500m away from the sea and, at that location, the water was only ankle deep. As we sat and put our boots back on again, we were surprised to see waves starting to ripple up the river. Obviously high tide had arrived. So far dealing with tides had worked out safely and relatively easy.
- After the river crossing there is still another 500m of soft sand to wade through before reaching an almost vertical cliff. You have got to be kidding me!? There is a rope to pull yourself up or use your hiking poles to push yourself.
- Through Johanna Beach carpark it is a further +750m walk up yet another hill to the GOW campsite, but Oh, the views! Again, we had it all to ourselves.
Top Tips for this Section:
- Effort: Pace yourself today as even though it is a relatively short stretch, it is physically demanding.
- Views: Having done all that huffing and puffing up to the campsite, the views have to be seen to be believed. Million-dollar views for only $17.10 per night.
- Dampness: Being on the coast there is a lot of moisture in the air and most mornings, the tent was heavy with condensation. As soon as you arrive at your destination, drape the tent, fly etc over any available bushes and it will dry in preparation for re-pitching that night. The dampness also means that you shouldn’t plan on washing clothing and thinking it will be dry to wear the next day. Clothing airs, but it does not seem to dry.
- Bugs: If you have the space, pack a small can of aerosol spray to spray a barrier around the outside of the tent to deter ants from moving in.
- Night Raiders: I also encourage you to place all your food inside your tent overnight. Bush rats and other hungry animals are busy at night.
- Accommodation: If you feel like a real bed and a shower, do an internet search for Johanna Beach cottages. They are not mentioned in the guidebook and could be a very nice option. By this stage of the walk, over half way, the thought of a shower was a very attractive idea.
Stay tuned for Day 4.
Read About:
- Day 1 – HERE
- Day 2 – HERE
#travelinspo #greatoceanwalk #bucketlist #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #australianbush #victoria #bushwalks #greatoutdoors #twelveapostles #johannabeach #coastalwalks.
Life...one big adventure 
I did think that Johanna Beach was the bit for me but I’m not 100% sure I’d get up the cliff at the end of it. So glad you seem to be enjoying the experience, Mel. Putting the tent up and going to the loo and all that seems a bit of a palaver but it’s not every day you have the back to nature experience. Did you succumb to the shower?
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No, no shower for me. I just stuck to the bird baths and REALLY enjoyed the shower at the end! 🙂
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Wow amazing photos of Johanna beach! Well shared thanks 👍
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It is such a beautiful place.
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Thank you for sharing
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Nice going! Have you heard about the Outfandia emergency urinals for those middle-of-the-night needs? Super light, collapsable. My wife and I used them on the John Muir Trail.
Best wishes!
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WOW! That sounds like an option. I have never heard of those. Thanks for the heads up. Mel
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Wow, wow, wow. Magnificent terrain and waters.
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Many thanks
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Great captures!!
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It would have been even better on a sunny day, but as long as it wasn’t raining, I was happy!
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You are definitely selling me on this hike! Not for the trudging through the sand but for those gorgeous views! What a great day! And I love the little bird at the start. Maggie
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I am so pleased you are enjoying the journey…and not a snowflake in sight! 😉
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🤣🤣
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Wow, what a lovely pic of that birdy! Haha 😅, yes getting out of your sleeping bag (and then out of the tent), only to return just a couple of minutes later … that is quite a story!
Oh, did you use the words ‘ropes’ and ‘vertical cliff’ in one sentence … suddenly your hike turns into an adventure! But your views … yeah, that’s pretty damn great!
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I can’t take any credit for the photo of the little wren, but I wanted to include a nice one to show just how cute they are.
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Stunning views and that Superb Fairy Wren surely deserves that adjective!
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It does and they do, although I don’t credit for the photo. Totally beyond my skill level.
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What a stunning photo of the blue wren! (I have a soft spot for those as I was in the Blue Wren Patrol as a Girl Guide. 😁) Johanna will be the end point for my long day so thank you for the information about the slog to the campsite. But what a campsite! It looks totally worth that uphill climb!
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It is…just take your ear plugs…
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Noisy neighbours? I always carry them just in case. Wore them one night last week when the frogs in the creek wouldn’t shut up. 😂
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Noisy waves! 🙂
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Beautiful views but I am glad I did that route in a mini bus! The Superb Fairy Wrens are such gorgeous little birds. I love them.
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Wow, the views are just fabulous!
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Many thanks…and you would not have been able to use your mobile phone along most of the walk. A good tech detox for your addiction?? 🙂
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Definitely. We’re about to set off for a few nights at a Wisconsin spa. Digital devices are not allowed in the spa/pool areas – I’m so happy for this rule!!
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I think I missed my books more than my phone. Hopefully you have some enthralling reading matter to take with you. Happy holidays.
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Oh yes, taking photos is part of the fun…oh in my case that is!
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They make fabulous memories. You don’t need to buy stuff to remember an adventure – just take lots of photos.
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Nice blog.
Do visit to my blog and follow it if you like..
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Many thanks for your feedback.
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Your welcome..
Do visit to my blog and follow it if you like…
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