Day: 15
Date: Saturday, 3 June 2023.
From: Valdelafuente To: Cabanillas
Distance (Planned): 22km Actual (Garmin): 26.8km
Progress: 417/801km
Start Walking: 0602 End: 1209pm Time: 6h7m
Ascent: 386m Descent: 356m
Terrain: 17.5km of urban/footpath walking to start. Ugh! Then climbing on dirt tracks. That’s more like it!
Weather: Another clear and hot day. Another storm brewing.
Stayed At: Albergue Municipal Cabanillas – €5
General Comments:
- Why is it always such a long haul into and out of big cities? While the centre of a city and their old buildings may be attractive, the endless suburbs and run-down industrial estates become a bit tiresome after the first few kilometres.
- I had to smile though this morning as I walked into Leon around 7am to see all the merrymakers and party-goers tumbling out of the bars and clubs. I bet the last thing on their minds was to go for a 26.8km stroll.
- So after the 8km haul into Leon, I was hanging out for a coffee and yet everything was still locked up tight early on a Saturday morning. I had abandoned all hope, when I came around the corner and there was a man setting up tables and chairs. I begged him to open his cafe a few minutes early to provide a much needed coffee. He just laughed at me and complied. Winner!
- The official starting point for the Camino san Salvador is in front of the luxurious Parador hotel, just around the corner from my coffee stop. For those who have watched the movie ‘The Way’, it is outside of this very building that the characters stare in wonder and then succumb to the lure of luxury.
- There were plenty of other pilgrims out and about at that early hour, but they were all heading West on the Camino Frances past the front of the Parador and my route took me around its eastern side to walk due North for the next five days.
- Once I got out of the confines of Leon, I could see the hills looming ahead of me. I also spotted two Spanish pilgrims, a daughter and her father, and met another Spanish man along the way. They were all continuing on past the village I have called home for the night, doing a few extra kilometres as they all started from Leon, not 6-7km on the far side of the city.
- After leaving the town the walking conditions changed dramatically, becoming far more lung-busting and, at the same time, for more beautiful. I guess that is all reward for effort.
- I am so pleased I rejigged yesterday’s schedule to make today a shorter distance as the heat and the hills would’ve really knocked it out of me this afternoon.
Top Tips:
- If you are contemplating walking the san Salvador, be careful leaving Leon. Some very industrious individual has gone along with a can of grey paint and painted over all the yellow arrows for at least a kilometre from the Parador. If you really look, you can see the shape of an arrow buried under the paint. Obviously someone doesn’t like people walking this direction out of town.
Buen Camino.
Life...one big adventure 
Interesting!
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Thanks! Very different to your most recent holiday!😊
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Oh yes, definitely different!
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The urban footpaths are definitely not pleasant to walk on. But thank you for the beautiful photo of the Leon Cathedral … and one day I will also stay in the Parador (yes, probably in my dreams 😉). It’s lovely to walk a new route with you again – even though I think that last picture makes me think I’m actually happy to sit on a soft couch rather than trying to walk out there!
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I got a last minute deal at the Parador in Tui back in 2016 and it was only about $85. I had had a shocker of a night the night before and staying there was heavenly! I just lay in bed, drank beer and watched T.V.. 🤣
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Had no idea there was a camino crossroads there. Bon voyage!
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Apparently the San Salvador was one of the original routes and was very popular when the King resided in Oviedo way back when. There are camino routes all over Spain and they all converge at Santiago de Compostela.
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It’s a big industrial walk into Leon there isn’t it! Shows how even the most romantic cities are same same day to day. 😂
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Yep, we pilgrims see it all. The pretty and the not so…
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Guidebook to life I tell ya!
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That’s one big pastry, Mel, but you have to keep your strength up. I’m looking forward to Oviedo, though I know you’re not there as a tourist.
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It’s amazing what I can eat when I am exercising like this. I really burn through the calories. This sort of pastry is not necessarily my first choice, but any port in a storm. 😁
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Wonderful images of the Cathedral and countryside and pleased for you that the next stage has some lovely rewards after those climbs. Buen Camino, Mel.
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Gracias, Amiga. X
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Allowing for the fact that photos never do hills justice, I just gotta say Holy Moly that is one steep climb in that last photo. No wonder you were happy with a shortened day.
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Yep, it was a lung buster and more to come I suspect… As you know, the views at the top are always a nice reward.
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Oops, forgot to say: WOOHOO! HALFWAY! 🎉😁
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Ta, it doesn’t really feel like it at the moment..
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One foot in front of the other….
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It works for me…
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Thank goodness for the man opening his shop for you in Leon, and what a funny site it must have been to see those early morning partiers as you’re on your 27km walk! The cathedral looks stunning 🙂
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I am not normally into churches, but when we walked the Camino Frances back in 2013, we did an audio-guide tour of this cathedral. The story about its architecture was just fascinating.
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Half way Mel!! Well done. Love the architecture in Leon, and that pastry looks pretty good too! Good luck with the upcoming hill climbs. A early morning cup of coffee seems to be a continuing challenge for you. 🙂 x
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Yep, no coffee again today as the bar is closed on Mondays. 😣 Didn’t they know I was coming? Xx
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