Day: 23
Date: Monday, 12 June 2023.
From: Campiello To: Berducedo
Distance (Planned): 27km Actual (Garmin): 33km Progress: 644/801km
Start Walking: 0558 End: 316pm Time: 9h18m
Ascent: 1,288m Descent: 992m
Terrain: OMG!
Weather: Clear, then massive thunder and rain.
Stayed At: Albergue Camino Primitivo – €15.
General Comments:
- Boy, oh boy, oh boy! That about sums up today! Go back and check my ascent, descent and walking time today and you will see why I am still in shock. It was an absolute killer.
- It didn’t start out that way at all and I thought I had made the right route choice. Little did I know…
- You see, today there are two different routes you can take. The Hospitales route is the famous one. It is slightly shorter, but much more remote, with steeper and harder ascents and descents. As the weather was to be a bit questionable and I was to be walking on my own, I thought it would be a better and safer option to walk the slightly longer ‘normal’ route. It was also supposed to be a bit flatter if 3km longer.
- Well, it all went pear-shaped from there. I thought I was walking strongly and covering the distance OK, but the ascents were relentless. All I could think was that if this is the easier route, I would hate to see the Hospitales.
- Imagine my shock and surprise as I limped, bedraggled into the albergue in Berducedo to see many people who left AFTER me this morning, walked the Hospitales AND arrived two hours earlier. I am such an idiot!
- A short post today as I am absolutely buggered! Not one of my finer days!
Top Tips:
- If you are planning to walk the Hospitales route apparently there is an albergue on the route now – 22km from Tineo and 22km from Berducedo. It would be a good option.
- Don’t do what I did today!
Buen Camino.
Life...one big adventure 
Oh Mel, all the feels for you. The OMG terrain said it all. Hopefully there a nice meal there for you tonight and a good sleep tonight. xx
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Thanks so much, Fran. Just about to sort my backpack for tomorrow and then tuck myself into bed…with ear plugs and eye mask, of course.
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Sounds perfect. Start again tomorrow 😉
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Yep, each day we have a chance to do it better. X
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Oh, hell! How were you supposed to know? Hope it’s an easier one tomorrow 🤔💗
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Yes, I know, but I can’t help but kick myself for not taking the shorter and quicker route…especially in the rain.
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How are you today? Already walking, I’m sure. I hope it stays dry.
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A much better day today, Jo. Just about to start writing my post on today’s path. Still endless ups and downs, but incredibly beautiful. Xx
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🤗💗
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🚶♀️🦸♀️🤸♀️
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OMG Mel that sounded so tough. You are amazing to endure it. Hope you have a better day tomorrow.
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Thanks Chris. Hopefully not too many days like these ahead of me…
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My word Mel … what a day! I think it’s a given that at some point on your Camino you will experience a day like this 😬. Rest well tonight my Camino friend – in a few months you will be longing to return to these beautiful views!
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You are probably right. The memories will all blur together in a mass of green.
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I saw your distance and then your walking time and thought “uh oh”. Oh Mel, what a tough day. Bad enough but then made worse by seeing others make a different choice and get a better deal. So frustrating!
Rest up well. And fingers crossed for an easier day tomorrow.
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Thanks, H. Another good example that it is not always sunshine and roses out on the trail, but always beautiful.
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Hindsight is a wonderful thing, Mel. Be gentle with yourself and how on earth were you supposed to know? Buen Camino.
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I guess so, but part of me wants to get it right every day and I know that’s unrealistic.
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Fair enough and I understand the need to get it right. A friend and I have just paid up to do the Greenstone Valley through to the Routeburn Track in March 2024. Excited and a bit anxious 🙂
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That’s so exciting. I wish you blue skies and fair breezes as you walk. It would be such a shame to do something so stunning and get bucketing rain the whole time.
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That’s life regarding the weather, and very rarely does it rain the whole time. I will still enjoy the experience 🙂
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Go you!🦸♀️
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I’m glad this day is over for you Mel! Some serious ascents and descents here! You are certainly clocking up the kilometres, thank you for sharing your journey!
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Me too! Yes, this trail is definitely not a Sunday stroll!
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Your time walked was enough for me, let alone the ascents & descents! Really hoping that may have been the worst day 🤞 Hang in there Mel x
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Thanks, Di. On the home straight now. There will be plenty of time for resting my legs on the plane home. Melxx
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The Primitivo is not easy and you know it. i know a few people who walked it. I hope tomorrow (Tuesday) is an easier day for you !
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Me too! Just about to pull my boots on and head out for the day. Let’s see what it has in store for me this time!
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It looks incredible but oh my goodness, 9hrs+ of terrain like that with ascents and descents. Madness!! Keep going Mel, you’re doing amazingly x
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Thanks, Han. Luckily every day is a new day and a chance to get it right…or at least, better!🌞🚶♀️🤸♀️
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