Camino Combo – Day 27 – Camino Primitivo

Day: 27

Date: Friday, 16 June 2023.

From: O Cadavo         To: Lugo

Distance (Planned): 29.5km      Actual (Garmin): 31km   Progress: 747/801km

Start Walking: 0554    End: 1243pm  Time: 6h48m

Ascent: 554m           Descent: 799m

Terrain: A stiff climb to start the day and then mostly downhill or gloriously level.

Weather: High cloud and hot.

Stayed At: Hostel Buenos Aires – €20.

General Comments:

  • Today was a lovely change from the endless ascents. Yes, there was a stiff climb to start with, not the best way to start the day, but from there it was pretty much downhill all the way to Lugo. You can see above, when you compare the distance I covered today and the time it took, that I was reveling in the easier terrain. That’s not to say that they weren’t a few little hills thrown in to keep me honest, thankfully the emphasis was on little.
  •  If you remember in my post yesterday I mentioned seeing people walking with their dogs. I came around a corner today and was pleased to see them walking up ahead and could not resist chatting to them for a little while. Apparently they cover about 25km a day with their dogs. I did ask whether the dogs got sore feet from all the walking and they seem to think not, but said that they thought the dogs had a few sore muscles. Not unlike the humans.
  • I also asked about where they were staying and, as I expected, they are not welcome at the albergues and have to camp in paddocks and rest areas as they go. I also asked them what they would do when they got to Santiago de Compostela and they replied that they would catch the train with their dogs all the way home to Austria. What an amazing experience.
  •  Unfortunately today I had to say goodbye to my friends Elly and Toon from Belgium. They are taking the Verde route which was the original route I planned to walk so, as happens on many Caminos, our paths diverge. They have been great company and one of the few couples that were fluent enough in English to have a good conversation with.
  • I have been surprised that I have not met any other Australians, any English people or any Americans on this path. That’s not to say they’re not walking the Primitivo, it just means they’re not in my bubble and maybe ahead or behind. Or simply staying in different accommodation so we don’t meet.
The Camino enters the old city through Porto San Pedro
You can walk a full loop of the city on top of the old walls.

Top Tips:

  • The Hostel Buenos Aires is a good option to stay in Lugo. It is pretty basic, but for a private room with the bathroom and only metres from the Roman walls and the Old City, it is pretty good value for money. They also gave me a discount for being a pilgrim.
  •  Lugo would be a great place to have a rest day. If you love old buildings and Roman history then you will be in your element here.

Buen Camino.

And the Camino leaves via the Porto de Santiago.

13 thoughts on “Camino Combo – Day 27 – Camino Primitivo

  1. It’s funny, isn’t it- so many places we’ve never heard of that can turn out to be real beauties. I wouldn’t mind a stop off here myself.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. You are spoilt for choice on the Iberian peninsula, but Yes, I wouldn’t miss this one if you are in the neighborhood.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Lugo looks interesting. Love the city wall and it looks nice and wide to walk on, unlike York. How many days left now? Those kilometers have mounted up.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Only four more walking days, including today. It’s hard to believe. Yes, I am going blow out my progress total I think. All those extra kilometres are going to add up.

      Liked by 1 person

  3. Lol they’re there (in droves). You’ll meet them when you join the Frances.

    Oh la la this city looks like somewhere I’d want to stop.

    I look at your distance and I can’t believe how close you are …. WOW. What will we do here without your updates.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. You will have your own updates to share and I look forward to reading them from my lounge chair!😆

      Liked by 1 person

  4. Sounds like a lovely day, as does Lugo !!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yep, only a few more lovely days to go! 🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️

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  5. Hooray for small hills and a gloriously level road! It’s great that people walk with their dogs, but I also think it should be a challenge (sleep wise and thinking for the well being of two). Love the old city walls in Lugo. I read in the comments that you said only four more days … it makes me sad and happy at the same time 🙃.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. and now only three walking days left… I can’t quite get my head around it.

      Liked by 1 person

  6. I love a walled city and this one looks interesting. I thought your time looked healthy for the distance covered – thank goodness for a downhill run.

    I think those missing Australians are in Japan….

    Liked by 1 person

    1. and I think a fair few of them may be on the Camino Frances too! A regular United Nations today…

      Liked by 1 person

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