Camino Combo – Day 28 – Camino Primitivo

Day: 28

Date: Saturday, 17 June 2023.

From: Lugo                  To: Ferreira

Distance (Planned): 26.5km      Actual (Garmin): 27.7km  Progress: 775/801km

Start Walking: 0552    End: 1206pm

Time: 6h14m

Ascent: 611m           Descent: 533m

Terrain: A real mixed bag.

Weather: High cloud, hot and humid.

Stayed At: Albergue Ponte Ferreira – €15.

General Comments:

  • It was a mixed bag of terrain today with undulating hills and endless small villages and settlements – all completely empty of people, but with the obligatory barking guard dogs. Forest paths were few and far between, and I estimate that 75% of the route was edge-of-road walking. As you can imagine, this is very hard on the feet and not all that relaxing as you navigate the traffic. I was glad it was Saturday and not a busy work day. Even then the cars and trucks moved fast with little wriggle room on the narrow roads.  It made me wonder whether I shouldn’t have taken the Friol/ Verde detour after all, but there’s no use wondering that when you are 28km down the track
  • The views were also a mixed bag. This is obviously a very rich and productive agricultural area with plenty of signs of intensive ag, dairy cattle, corn, and sillage production. Blue gum and pine plantations were thrown into the mix too.
  • All these views were overlayed with the powerful aroma of animal waste and sillage. If it is not wafting out of the sheds and yards, it is sprayed over the paddocks. Not the best of perfumes, but a good incentive to walk that little bit faster.
  • They made me work hard for my coffee today with the first bar not doing business until the 19km mark. It tasted like liquid gold and put a real spring in my step for final stage.
  • I did find it difficult to get into my rhythm today for some reason. Nothing felt comfortable and I had to keep telling myself to slow down. Maybe I’m excited about nearing the finish line?

Top Tips:

  • Ferreira is a deceptive place to find your albergue. There are three different sections to the village – high, low and then high again – and it is a very long and drawn out place. The Albergue Ponte Ferreira is in the second high part at the 72.5km mark.
  • Also the albergue doesn’t open its doors until 100pm (closer to 2pm if ‘Spanish time’ is in force), so be prepared to cool your heels for a while if you arrive early…like me.

Buen Camino.

19 thoughts on “Camino Combo – Day 28 – Camino Primitivo

  1. The old Spanish time! Am sure the road walking didn’t help the rhythm. So close now, those tapas and vino blanco waiting in SdC.

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    1. I’m afraid I have really let the side down this trip with my vino consumption. Often, I haven’t felt like it or just didn’t want to drink on my own. Now, if we were walking together……🍷🍷😉😁

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      1. Ha ha! Team will be fine. Lol I’m the same … often dreaming of getting into bed rather than the night time wine and more inclined to guzzle the water for hydration. Happy walking lady!

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        1. Ta, I do my best to always be a happy walking lady, although today’s rain did put a bit of a dampener on things. 🌧🌧🌂☔

          Liked by 1 person

          1. Can you believe how far you’ve come, so many days. Rain! No. We also had some up in the North of europe, first in days/weeks. We’ve had a bender of a summer after very little spring – 30 degree days. I’m in London today but luckily I was in a theatre when the storms opened.

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          2. About to get ready for the day and the poncho will need to be handy again unfortunately…

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          3. A camino combo of weather to add to your experience! Just think .. the deliciousness of that warm shower at the end of the day and no bookings to worry about!

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          4. Rain, sprinkling and then more rain! I can’t say there wasn’t variety again today!☔🌧

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  2. Yes, road walking is not a favourite … but then, I like the “endless small towns”. Less than 30km to go – enjoy your second last day on the Camino. Walk slowly and look around – you never know when you might find yourself on these roads again. Buen Camino Mel 👣.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Thanks, that’s good advice. You never know what the future holds, do you? 🔮🔮

      Liked by 1 person

  3. Ooh, sounds like the inner homing pigeon is starting to kick in a bit.

    Very farmyardy views today.

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    1. Definitely! I am looking forward to having more than one shirt, one shorts and two pairs of socks!

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      1. Funny how the simplest things become such luxuries. 😁

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        1. Every. Single. Time. It makes me appreciate everything I have

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  4. Nearly there Mel!! Enjoy the last days. I really hope the weather is fine & the walking easy. Xx

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    1. Thanks Kerry. Rain or shine, I still gotta do those kilometres….but it would be nicer if the sun was shining. 🌞 Melxx

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  5. So nearly there, only 2 more sleeps to go. I have my fingers crossed for some sunshine for you 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks for the positive, sunshiney thoughts. Hopefully they will come good tomorrow!

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