Day: 29
Date: Sunday, 18 June 2023.
From: Ferreira To: Fraga Alta
Distance (Planned): 28km Actual (Garmin): 29km Progress: 804/801km
Start Walking: 0605 End: 1235pm Time: 6h40m
Ascent: 547m Descent: 668m
Terrain: Another mixed bag.
Weather: Either misting, sprinkling or raining.
Stayed At: Albergue Santiago – €14.
General Comments:
- When I checked the weather last night, it said it would be cloudy this morning and then raining later. Yep, I can do that. Then imagine my surprise when I checked again this morning and it was rain icons for most of the day. Still not believing the forecast, I stuck my nose out the door and it got wet. Ugh!
- So it was pack cover on, rain poncho on and head down, bum up as I set out on the path in the damp dawn.
- There was little opportunity for photography today. Most of the views were obscured by rain or the camera was buried under so many layers of protection that it was too much hassle to get it out for a quick snap.
- Every now and then the Optimist in me would surface and I would ditch the poncho only for the lightest of mist to revert to rain. Then the shimmy (and a portion of bad language) would start as I tried to get back into my poncho before getting completely saturated. My poncho has some major design faults, but it is all I have to keep me dry at the moment and I suspect I will be needing it again tomorrow.
- There was no big Ta Da moment when I finished the Primitivo this morning in Melide. I thought there may be a sign or a symbol showing the end of the trail, but it just merged straight into the Frances and all of a sudden there were more people with backpacks than previously.
- And it was not as busy as I had been led to believe. I was expecting hoards of yabbering pilgrims, but everyone was moving in their own world and way, and there was always about 6 people in front of me and a group not far behind.
- What I wasn’t expecting was the number of people walking with daypacks, not the usual fully loaded backpack. I estimate that to be about 65% of walkers. Each to their own of course and if it makes the Camino accessible to more people, then that is a good thing.
- Another difference was the number of young people walking i.e. in their 20’s and younger. This age group was only about 10% of walkers when we did the Camino Frances ten years ago and now it would be closer to 40%. Maybe there was an increased percentage because it was the weekend?
Top Tips:
- Even though it isn’t as busy as I expected, I am glad I booked my bed for the next couple of nights. I have also tried to book after the normal end-of-stage destination or those recommended by the guidebooks and websites.
Buen Camino.
Life...one big adventure 
Urgh to wet weather walking. Hope tomorrow is fine for you – is it your last day? You must be feeling so proud of yourself to accomplish this Big Adventure. I’m so proud of you! No more blisters? No more colds?
I wonder what you are looking most forward to when you finish.
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More rain forecast tomorrow unfortunately, but Tuesday is supposed to be fine for my walk into Santiago. I am not sure I feel proud of myself, but there’s definitely a strong sense of achievement when I stand in front of the Cathedral and think of all the steps it took to get me there. No more blisters and I still have my cold. I don’t think I will shake it until I get home and rest up a little. It has been a true privilege to walk across Spain and I always feel very grateful for the opportunity. It is amazing to be welcomed so genuinely by so many people. As far as what I am looking forward to, it is always the simple things: a big hug from my husband, pulling on clean clothes that don’t involve a blue shirt or green shorts, and sliding in between clean sheets in my own bed. Heaven!
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Ah, yes. I always crave my own bed after being away. There is nothing like it.
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And I will only be sharing it with one man, not 15 strangers! 🤣
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Oh la la what a day! I like the photo of the hikers in ponchos. Hmm maybe all the grads are out. Years 12s are done all across Europe. Mine is hiking Mont Blanc (TMB) – those photos from up there Mel … wow. Wonder if that is something for you. Enjoy the last of your camino friend … what will tomorrow bring?!?
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Ah, that could explain the young’ens and Mont Blanc? Never say never, but it sounds like a tough one!
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Um lady, have you looked in the mirror? You are a tough one! One of the toughest.
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and I can only imagine the look on my family’s faces if I suggested this as my next adventure! 🤣😆😳
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It looks quite busy, Mel, but you must be close to the end now. What an accomplishment! I bet your own bed’s calling to you 🤗💙
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Yes, it’s busy, but everyone is pleasant and motoring along. We are all streaming along to the same final destination. It’s nice that we have that common link. And Yes, as I just replied to Jude, I am looking forward to my own bed, but it is going to be so cold when I get home! Brrrrrr ❄❄🥶
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Looking at your ‘progress’, you have now walked more than you originally planned … and you’re not there yet. It’s so typical of the Camino 🙂. Lovely rain (but only when I don’t have to walk in it)! I love your pink flower photo. Not long now … the ritual of rolling up your sleeping bag and packing your backpack is soon coming to an end … Buen Camino brave Mel!
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Thanks so much for your support. Yes, I am going to walk a lot further than originally planned, but that is a small price to pay for an amazing experience. Buen Camino to you too.
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Today is June 18. With my husband, I left home at 9 AM for a long walk. I am not on the Camino but walking is still “my thing” to do. We ended up with about 30,000 steps. More or less 22km . Of course without a backpack but I am still very happy to be out and walking. You are going to be in Santiago very soon I think. My friend JJ walked from Porto in 12 days and arrived in Santiago today. Take care and enjoy every minutes of this journey.
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A Buen Camino to you both wherever you walk.
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Those poncho covered backpacks make the walkers look like a character out of Black Adder or Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Or is that just my weird mind? 😄
I think there’s been so much media attention on the Camino in recent years that it wouldn’t be surprising there has been a rise in businesses offering supported versions. Not in the true nature of the journey but as you say it allows more people at least some of the experience.
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Too many people with dodgy spines who can no longer carry a full backpack, myself included in that group 🙂
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Bad backs, dodgy knees, advanced age, inexperience or lack of confidence… So many reasons people may need to access a supported journey and how wonderful they can get to experience it. 😊
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So true!
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Ah, now I understand. It’s wonderful that they are still out walking and enjoying the experience.
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True. I think a lot of local businesses are making up for lost Covid time too. It would have devastated the whole industry.
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Mel, it only seems like yesterday that I reading your first Camino post; though I can imagine it feels like a lifetime to you. No doubt take a while to process all that has gone on during your endurance walk. Like Jude mentioned, we are all proud of our adventurous blogging friend 🙂
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Thank so much for your kind words. Yes, it always takes a little while to come down from the experience, but it sure will be nice to pull the boots off and sit a while on the plane home. 😊
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Gah, still no sunshine!
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There’s always tomorrow! Ever the Optimist! 🌞🌞
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