The Larapinta Trail, Central Australia – Day 2

Despite a very long day out on the trail yesterday, followed by the challenges of erecting our tents for the first time in the almost dark, we all rolled out of our swags this morning raring to go.

Yes, rolling out of that swag and getting upright may have been the first challenges for the day, but from there on in, it was absolute joy.

Date: Monday, 17 July 2023.

From: Woodlands Trailhead

To: Bond Gap and then back to Simpsons Gap

Section #: part 2

Rating: Moderate to Difficult (official). Our path was more Moderate.

Official/Map Distance: 26.2km      Planned Distance: 18km         Actual Distance: 19.3km

Progress: 45/223km

Ascent: 375m                                  Descent: 319m

Terrain: Undulating all day with short climbs and descents down to valley ‘flats’.

Started Walking: 0839                   Finished: 230pm                       Time/Hrs: 5h51m

Weather: Warm to hot and clear.

Stayed At: Wallaby Gap, World Expeditions’ Group Campsite

General Comments:

• Today we experienced one small disadvantage of walking with a commercial group/operator. Today’s stage should have been a biggish one, ending at Jay Creek, but unfortunately this area is no longer accessible by tour companies. Apparently, to get a vehicle into this area (to support the group, bring food and gear etc) it involves crossing private land, through a locked gate. This was all fine until about 12 months ago when one of the tour companies (no name, no pack drill) left the gate open and the owner’s cattle escaped. Understandably, the owner was none too pleased and has henceforth banned the use of the access road. So, while independent walkers can merrily follow the path to complete Section 2, us ‘groupies’ had to get creative.
• Instead of being Purists and heading out on a standard East-West walk, we got to walk a new trail (the Woodlands Trail) that connected to the Larapinta. From there, we strolled out to Bond Gap and back eastwards, to Simpsons Gap. It was a very pleasant detour.

• The colours of this land just blow my mind. The sky is especially brilliant and I am yet to come up with a word that accurately describes that blue. It’s even more difficult as the blue changes depending on the time of day. Not quite turquoise, not quite light blue, not quite azure. Any suggestions?
• The walking was very enjoyable today with plenty of time to stop and look at the wide range of fascinating plants and trees, and listen to the birds. It is interesting to see how the plants have evolved and adapted to thrive in such harsh conditions.
• There is very little large animal life to be seen out here (we only saw two kangaroos the whole 14 days), however if you are a bird lover, you will be in your element. Ring-necked Parrots, Pink Cockatoos and great sweeping, twittering flocks of budgerigars lit up the sky.

• An early lunch at Bond Gap was a welcome escape to the shade and provided the perfect opportunity to study the brilliant orange rocks and statuesque River Red Gums. Such a contrast in colours.
• A highlight of the afternoon as we turned back towards Simpsons Gap were the pancake-like rock structures. They really looked like someone had come along and stacked great slabs of stone in incredibly precise and perfect piles. Clever Nature.

• I am no geologist, and do find it difficult to retain the names of all the different types of rocks in my brain, but I do find them interesting. If you are a geologist, either amateur or professional, the Larapinta Trail would be a very long and slow walk for you, as I am sure you will find it impossible to resist stopping and examining the myriad of rock formations.
• I have this crazy dream about being able to transport myself back in time and be present when all these stunning mountain ranges and ridges were formed. I would find somewhere safe to stand or hover in the air and just watch everything heave and extrude out of the ground, and dodge the massive boulders being tossed about. Yes, the weird places my mind goes when I walk.

• Today’s Word: Stunning
• Menu: I forgot to record yesterday’s delicious fare as maybe it was inhaled too quickly? From here on in, I dutifully recorded it:
  • Breakfast: muesli with gourmet cherry chia pudding
  • Lunch: Chicken and chick pea salad bowls
  • Dinner: Dukka and nibbles to start, then the tastiest Shepherd’s Pie and tossed salad.

Top Tips for this Section:

• Simpsons Gap: Is definitely worth a visit with its massive rock cliffs, dwarfing everything around it. It wasn’t my favourite chasm/gap/gorge, but still, it’s a lovely place to rest awhile. There are good toilets (very important when actual sit-down toilets are a scarce commodity), water tanks, and lots of interpretive information explaining the history and geology of the region.
• If you have the need and opportunity, use the sinks and soap at the toilets for a quick wash of your bare necessities such as under things. They will dry quickly back at camp.

• Bird Baths: Pack a small microfibre cloth to use as a washer and some of those small bottles of bath gel you get in hotels etc. The camps do not have showers and a ‘bird bath’ is very welcome, making you feel much fresher at the end of the day.
• A generous sprinkle of baby powder also adds to the wonderful illusion of cleanliness.

• Swags: At each camp we unroll our swags in our tent or al fresco under the stars. Did you know that you sleep in a swag, not on it? Who knew that there are zips that undo to reveal a mattress inside? Strangely enough it makes much more sense to place the fitted sheet over the mattress itself, rather than the whole canvas swag. It just goes to show that you can teach an old dog, new tricks! 😊

How’s this for a Monday Walk, Jo?

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