The Larapinta Trail, Central Australia – Day 3

Rocks, rocks and more rocks.

Rocky paths, rocky cliffs and rocks as far as the eye could see.

Who knew Central Australia had so many rocks? And so many mountains? And that they would all be so beautiful?

Date: Tuesday, 18 July 2023.

From: Standley Chasm Camp

To: Eastwards back towards Jay Creek

Section #: part 3

Rating: Moderate to Difficult.

Official/Map Distance: 13.6km      Planned Distance: 12km         Actual Distance: 9.3km

Progress: 54/223km

Ascent: 475m                                  Descent: 446m

Terrain: Very steep climbs up and down the escarpment over rocky paths that were more like steps, with tonnes of rock scrabbling.

Started Walking: 0909                   Finished: 238pm                       Time/Hrs: 5h37m

Weather: Hot and clear with a beautiful breeze

Stayed At: Standley Chasm, World Expeditions’ Group Campsite

General Comments:

• Today was similar to yesterday in that we had to deal with the limitations of the ‘locked gate’ issue. We didn’t have the time (or energy?) to walk all the way back to Jay Creek and return, so instead we had a taster of the most interesting and perhaps, most difficult part of this section.
• Talking to some Indies (independent walkers) on the trail this morning and explaining our challenge of not being able to follow the path in a purely linear fashion, they happily volunteered that ‘we haven’t missed out on anything special’. That made the Purists in our group (including me) feel much better about our need to adapt the trail to meet our needs/logistics.

• Standley Chasm is a little oasis tucked away in the Chewings Mountain range. It is yet another picturesque spot, revealing huge cleavages between cliffs and peaceful pools of reflective water.
• Many of the waterholes on this walk are deemed sacred by the local Arrernte people, so please make sure you read any signage to check whether it is permissible to swim or not.

• Standley Chasm is a mecca for travellers and has a number of comfortable camping spots for tents and caravans. All have access to power for charging devices etc. There is also a café with WIFI and this place is a popular spot for Larapinta hikers to collect resupply boxes.
• Most importantly, it has hot showers! Admittedly it was only a bit of a dribble of a shower, but after three days of walking, it was a very welcome dribble.

• As mentioned above, our path today was short, but challenging. After briefly walking along the wonderfully smooth and level path towards the Chasm itself, we turned left and headed STRAIGHT UP! The ol’ heart rate went from normal to maximum bpm in about two minutes flat!
• If a key learning at this stage of the trail was around the proliferation of rocks, the other was around the need to have very good knees to handle the rigours of the long and steep ascents and descents. Thank goodness for walking poles!

• As always, the view from the top of these escarpments made all that huffing and puffing worthwhile. The colours of the landscape are simply astounding and they change with the light. You wouldn’t think that rocks can change from brilliant orange and reds, to apricots and pinks, and at times, purples and smoky blues. It truly is a visual feast.
• A small epiphany today was that, for once in my life, I had made the right decision and that was to walk this trail with a supported group rather than as an Indie. I had seriously contemplated loading up the backpack with food and tent, and dragging the Husband along for this adventure.
• After scrabbling up and down the steepest paths today, the thought of doing it with a 15-18kg backpack made my blood run cold. Yes, I could have done it, but every day would have been hard yakka and my enjoyment levels would have been significantly reduced. There would also have been a very high likelihood of a divorce before we arrived at the end of the trail! Hats off to all the Indies out there.

• The absolute highlight of the day was listening to trees. Our guide explained that the local Aboriginal people can tell the depth of the water deep below the dry creek beds by listening to the trunks of the River Red Gums. There were sceptical looks all around our group, but the Partner in Crime (PiC) and I just had to give it a try.
• OMG! My mouth fell open as I pressed my ear up against the trunk, and sure enough, I could hear a sound like clicking and a distant gurgling. It was not easy to hear and you had to block out the sound of your own pulse and other background noises, but it was definitely there. Amazing!

• Today’s Word: Incredible
• Menu: Breakfast: Gourmet bush tucker muesli and toast.
  • Lunch: Salami and salad wraps.
  • Dinner: Pad Thai chicken with vegetables, coriander, bean sprouts and chopped peanuts. Apple Crumble and Custard for dessert.

Top Tips for this Section:

• Café: Sometimes the café at Standley Chasm varies its kitchen’s hours with little notice. It may pay you to check ahead, especially if you are relying on it for a meal.
• Mobile Range: Mobile phone service is available here and apparently there was WIFI, although I didn’t check it out for usability.
• Take and Leave: In the shower area is a side annexe where people collect their resupply boxes. There are also 240v power points to recharge devices as well as an unofficial Take/Leave area where hikers discard things they no longer need or wish to carry, including spare food, gas cannisters and two bottles of rum! The café also sells basic items to top up your supplies if need be.

NB: I am currently off on another epic adventure involving a +1,000km walk. My apologies if I take a while to walk back into civilisation and respond to your comments and likes. Have fun, everyone!

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