And then there were 6.
One of our group decided that this walk was not for them. We were all a bit sad but supportive, as these sorts of adventures are supposed to be ‘fun’. Luckily by day four, we still weren’t too far out of Alice Springs and she was able to get back into town and join a shorter, comfort-style tour.
In the meantime, the rest of us laced up our boots and psyched ourselves up for our first truly challenging day on the trail.
Date: Wednesday, 19 July 2023.
From: Standley Chasm Camp
To: 4/5 Junction to Birthday Waterhole
Section #: 4
Rating: Difficult.
Official/Map Distance: 17.9km Planned Distance: 19km Actual Distance: 20.6km
Progress: 75/223km
Ascent: 721m Descent: 735m
Terrain: Very steep ascents and almost vertical descents. A very tough day over loose and rocky paths.
Started Walking: 0749 Finished: 328pm Time/Hrs: 7h43m
Weather: Another clear as a bell day in the Great Outdoors. Thank goodness for a breeze. This is the middle of Winter?
Stayed At: Birthday Waterhole Campsite
General Comments:
- It was action stations at Standley Chasm this morning with a sea of headlamps glimmering and bobbing in the dark. There would have been at least 25 Indies (independent walkers) camped here and they too knew they had a big day ahead, and wanted to make the most of the early morning cool hours.
- Watercourses: Almost on a daily basis, I am surprised by the number of creeks, gullies and riverbeds we walk across. My perception before arriving in Central Australia was that we would be walking in almost desert-like conditions. WRONG! Yes, the majority of these watercourses were dry, but in major rain events this whole region would be crisscrossed with small and large channels bringing life wherever they flowed.
- The downside of all these riverbeds and gullies is that the trail spends a fair bit of time following them. While they are mostly level/flat, they are covered in rocks – small, big and HUGE – which are incredibly hard on the feet and can be slippery. It almost makes climbing mountains look attractive!
- And climbing mountains, we did today! After about 45minutes of rock hopping, the path climbed up, up and up. Initially it was up and down ridgelines that fed out from the main Chewings Range, and it felt like we were heading for the top of the World. To add some extra layers of challenge, the path was very narrow in places, covered in loose, shaley rock and with sheer drops on both sides. Step carefully.
- Oh, but the views! Breathtaking in every sense of the word.
- Reveal Saddle truly revealed the landscape on both sides of the mountain range. From up so high it looked like the land ripples away in every direction. The escarpments are sharp and delineate the different valleys, and then the land softens into gentle folds of rolling hills. I bet those hills aren’t so rolling if you get close and have to climb them.
- Perception #2 is also debunked today. I thought Central Australia was flat as a pancake. WRONG! Of course, I knew when I signed up to walk the Larapinta Trail that I would be climbing mountains, but I didn’t know there would be mountains in every direction as far as the eye could see. Spectacular!
- The high point for the day was Brinkley Bluff. It became a real meeting place for all walkers heading East or West, as we all collapsed at the base of the cairn after huffing and puffing our way to the top. The popularity of this place may also have had something to do with access to the Telstra mobile network and WIFI.
- Small tent pad/sites have been cleared all over the top of the mountain and what a place it would be to wake up. The 360° views would be stunning at sunrise and you would wake up feeling on top of the World…literally.
- Getting down from Brinkley Bluff was the next challenge with about 400m of almost vertical switchbacks. Again, loose rock underfoot made for slow going. Slow I can do very well.
- Imagine our surprise to look back up the mountain to see a young woman running down the mountainside carrying a fully-loaded pack on her back?! As she ran past us, she yelled that her ‘knees were hurting and it was better is she ran’. Hmmm, I am not sure I understand the logic of that approach and I suspect it shows that I am getting old!
- Today’s Word: Spectacular
- Menu: Breakfast: Muesli and toast.
- Lunch: Mexican salad with rice
- Dinner: Lasagne with salad. Choc/caramel slice for dessert.
Top Tips for this Section:
- Poles: In my humble opinion, walking poles are essential kit for this trail. They really make a difference to your stability and power on both ascents and descents. This, of course, is a personal decision and it was a 60/40 split between pole carriers and not.
- Heights: If you are afraid of heights, you may like to reconsider walking this trail or use it as an opportunity to face your fears. Certain sections of the trail (on quite a few days) are very narrow, very high and very exposed. They are not all long sections, sometimes only 50m in length, but they do need to be navigated. There are no alternate routes.
- Birthday Waterhole: If you are travelling in this part of the World, Birthday Waterhole is a magic camping spot. The sand is gloriously soft underfoot and under-tent, and swimming in the waterhole is the perfect way to end the day. Freezing, but perfect! Life is good.
#travelinspo #LarapintaTrail #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #australianbush #AliceSprings #WorldExpeditions #bushwalks #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #NorthernTerritory #CentralAustralia #discovernorthernterritory #WestMacDonnellRanges #OutbackAustralia #hikingadventures #epicadventures #StandleyChasm
Life...one big adventure 
Impressive, amazing terrain. It looks quite like the American southwest.
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I can imagine the colours would be very similar.
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This looks like so much fun! Nice article.
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It was amazing fun! Have a good day.
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Just…wow!
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True, but we have moved on from WOW by now. 😆
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The views from Brinkley Bluff are my favourite so far on this hike. Love the different colours in the landscape. Maggie
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Thanks, Maggie. Everyday I thought the views couldn’t get better, but they did. A bit like your latest adventure, every day was an eye opener.
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What can I say, Mel? Stunned and breathless.
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You and me both! Puff, pant! 🙃
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Wow, I love the view from the high point! Also, what are those yellow flowers? They look like cotton balls.
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My thoughts exactly.
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You should see plenty of wattle next year. It seems to be coming out earlier and earlier.
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That’s the Australian wattle. There are many varieties and this one seemed to have very large blooms.
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Wonderful post! The trail was challenging but offered truly awesome vistas. I have a feeling that the items on the menu tasted awfully good.
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Food always tastes even better after a day’s hiking!
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Exactly. Just about anything tastes good after a day of hiking.
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And the plate or bowl in front of me is never large enough!
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Stunning photos Mel, but that was a tough day.
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Thanks, Jude. Yep, a tough day, but am absolute cracker.
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I would love to camp up there. The stars must be amazing every night on this trek. If you ever find yourself in the American Southwest, you will have deja vu.
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Yes, the sunsets, stars and sunrises were amazing…although we did struggle to stay awake past 730pm!🤣
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I have that struggle nightly, but at least I’m not missing out on gorgeous star-gazing!
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On my current adventure, we are often crawling into our sleeping bags just after 6pm! Reality is going to take some adjusting to in a month or so.
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That landscape is just so vast and open, we can’t imagine anything like it in the UK. It sounds like such a tough hike, but worth it for the reward 🙂
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I don’t think you could find any stronger contrast in landscape. There is nothing soft or gentle about the Larapinta, but oh, the colours…
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Oh boy, those steep descents are not my friends. I’m a year behind on catching up with you! One day at a time. It’s overwhelming to think how far behind I am! I hope you are well!!
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No problem. We both have been busy adventuring. I am on a 1,005km hike now in Western Australia. 20 days down, 27 to go! Have fun, Melx
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When a rating says difficult, I immediately eat two bananas and two eggs beforehand! But wow, just look at those views – beautiful. Running make sore knees better? I have to remember that! If you wave the dessert of Choc/caramel slice in front of my nose, I might just walk along 🤪. Lovely photos!
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Two eggs and two bananas! I like that strategy and much better for you than choc caramel slice! 😁
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