The days are starting to blur together as every day delivers even more stunning views and lung-busting climbs. I’m switching off from the outside world (no mobile phone service, no WIFI, no emails, no social media) and it seems we are all enjoying the change of pace and focus.
Today we do a bit of freestyling and walk Section 5 in an easterly direction due to some shuttle/vehicle issues. It’s all good – regardless of the direction – and it turns out that today’s hike on the trail also includes a swim on the trail! Who would have thought?
Date: Thursday, 20 July 2023.
From: Hugh Gorge Trailhead
To: 4/5 Junction to Birthday Waterhole
Section #: 5
Rating: Difficult.
Official/Map Distance: 14.9km Planned Distance: 16.5km Actual Distance: 19.3km
Progress: 94/223km
Ascent: 572m Descent: 630m
Terrain: Tonnes of riverbed walking and swimming, before a steep and narrow climb up, up, up and back down Razorback Ridge.
Started Walking: 0830 Finished: 458pm Time/Hrs: 8h27m
Weather: Clear and hot.
Stayed At: Birthday Waterhole Campsite
General Comments:
- It was a beautiful but hard start to today’s section with a couple of kilometres of riverbed rock hopping. Yes, there is a lot to admire around us as we walk, however I need to spend a good portion of the time staring at my two left feet to make sure I don’t trip over. A fall on these rocks would not be pretty.
- The trail took us over rocks, through the dry river bed, around waterholes, slipping and sliding over cliffs and hopping across streams. Until we arrived at an expanse of water, a large, solid rock wall, and a virtual dead end. Yes, it was time to swap hiking boots for our swimming togs. GULP!
- I was a bit nervous about this manoeuvre as I really didn’t want to drop my pack and all my gear into the water. Luckily, our guide was an old hand and knew exactly what to do.
- Firstly, we stripped down to our swimmers (I had mine under my walking clothes) or to ye olde multipurpose bra/undies or jocks.
- Second, we waded towards the rock wall mentioned above and handed our backpacks up to the guide who had already swum around said rock wall, and scrambled up on top of it.
- Third, we took it in turns to plunge into the freezing water and swim very fast around the rock to then gingerly clamber up onto a ledge on the other side.
- Fourth, grabbing our backpacks, we tip-toed to a bit of wider space and tried to get dressed as demurely as possible!
- I am not sure how solo walkers manage the above manoeuvre, but I guess they have no other choice. Maybe they wait for another walker to come along to do the backpack shuffle? It certainly is an obstacle I haven’t experienced on a walk before and it is a great way to freshen up!
- Sorry I didn’t get any photos of these antics as my camera was safely stored away in a dry bag.
- Suitably re-clad again, we kept working our way up the gorge until we came to a junction. Our guide offered us the choice to keep going up the riverbed to arrive at the gorge proper or turn eastwards and stay on the designated trail. We were a bit torn as Hugh Gorge would have been a sight to see, but we knew we still had some serious ascents awaiting us and it was getting hot. We erred on the side of caution.
- Up, up, up we climbed and we were all grateful to reach Rocky Saddle. Yes, not a very imaginative name. What we weren’t so sure about was the view of Razorback Ridge ahead of us. Our highest and toughest point for the day! You expect us to climb that?!
- Have you ever had the experience where you look at something and think, ‘that’s impossible’? I was certainly thinking that and yet, down we plunged the other side of Rocky Saddle and, one foot in front of the other, led us closer to that impossibility.
- It was getting very hot by the time we started the climb up Razorback Ridge and I am not good in the heat. I just put my head down and focussed on the path as it wound ever up, and kept sip, sip sipping water. Tell me again why I am doing this?
- Steps turned to hands and knees as we scrambled across the narrow ridge (the name Razorback is apt) and then climbed an almost vertical cliff face using as many points of contact (both feet, both hands, knees and backside) to push, pull and haul ourselves up the trail. Are we having fun yet??
- And yet, we survived! A lovely breeze cooled out sweaty brows (and sweaty everything else) as we paused to get out heartrates back down to ‘normalish’ before – Yes – plunging back down the other side. There is a definite pattern forming here.
- Tired feet and legs led us back towards camp and our spirits were lifted by flocks of budgerigars zipping through the valley, and only metres above our heads. What a joy to see and hear.
- Today’s Word: Magnificent.
- Menu: Breakfast: Hearty pimped-up porridge with nuts, seeds and fruit.
- Lunch: Salmon and vege sushi rolls. Yum!
- Dinner: Kangaroo mince Mexican chilli, guacamole, sour cream, salsa, lime and corn chips. Dessert: chocolate pudding.
Top Tips for this Section:
- Check the weather forecast prior to the swim section and gather some local intel from other walkers about the width and depth of the water. If there has been rain, the whole of Hugh Gorge may deliver even wetter feet.
- Revive yourself at the end of a hot day with another bracing dip in Birthday Waterhole.
- The water out here has a very high mineral content and it feels very drying on the skin. Pack a heavy-duty moisturiser for use after a swim to offset some of the rigours of sun, wind and water.
#travelinspo #LarapintaTrail #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #australianbush #AliceSprings #WorldExpeditions #bushwalks #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #NorthernTerritory #CentralAustralia #discovernorthernterritory #WestMacDonnellRanges #OutbackAustralia #hikingadventures #epicadventures
Life...one big adventure 
It is quite hard to do a swim in the middle of a hike though the leg/back muscles would’ve enjoyed a change. I have a wonderfully active imagination so no images were needed of the swim 😉 Beautiful reflective photos, Mel. Some of those climbs looked challenging, but, hey that is why you chose this walk.
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It was quite a weird thing to do in the middle of a hike, but oh so, refreshing.
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This was one of my favourite sections, the challenge of the swim, coupled with the ascent up Razorback Ridge put me way out of my comfort zone, but felt elated that I could accomplish it. Plus the scenery really was incredible!
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I should have said, the scenery was magnificent!!!!
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Magnificent! Absolutely!
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I should have said, the scenery was magnificent!!!!!
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I wonder if we can still remember all 14 words in order?🙃
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I think we all pushed out of our comfort zones over that 14 days. But, what a blast it was and I am so glad to have shared it with you.
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and I was very glad to share it with you
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💕🤸♀️🤸♀️🏃♀️🚶♀️
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Wow! Razorback ridge looks interesting.
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That’s one way to describe it! 😳
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I’m speechless, Mel. What happens to non-swimmers? Better to drown than climb that razor thing? I’m impressed, darlin.
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Hmm, I’m not sure non-swimmers could do this trail. Or they could up to this point and then they would have to turn around and go home. Not th the best plan. And Yes, Razorback was pretty hairy. Just don’t look down! 🥴
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🫨🩵
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Great photos. I’m always amazed at what a tree can grow out of. I would have loved that rocky ascent to the ridge. Actually, I usually have the opposite experience – I look at a hike/route/climb and think “that doesn’t look that bad,” but it’s always much harder during the actual experience of it and I say to myself, “What was I thinking?!?”
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I am having those “what was I thinking?” thoughts on a daily basis at the moment! 🤯
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The colours in your photos are so vibrant, another incredible trail to walk
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I can take no credit for the colours. Mother Nature at her finest!
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Kangaroo chili… as in, kangaroo meat?
I totally know the feeling of something looking impossible from a distance but then being manageable. Looks like it was pretty fun, too!
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Yep, kangaroo meat. It was quite delicious. The key is not to cook it too fast or it goes tough. It does hop around your plate a bit though….🤣
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Funny that you talk of sweating in the heat after you’ve come out if the cold water) I know it was likely hours later. Good to put your body through some challenges to see what you’re capable of. Maggie
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Every day seemed to present a range of challenges or extremes, but the consistent thing was extreme beauty and endless rocks!😊
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What a great adventure in such amazing landscape. We’re just back from Europe where we spent a week walking in the Dolomites. One day we had that experience of looking up and thinking will we ever get there. And when we did we realised that was a crest and there was another steep uphill section to go. That said, Razorback Ridge looks even more rugged so well done.
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Aren’t those false summits the worst? I find them heartbreaking and they always generate a range of colourful language! 😁 I am very envious of your Dolomite adventure and can’t wait to see the photos!
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If I have to be honest with myself: This day would have been one too many for me (I’m the non-swimmer)! I think you’re very brave Mel … I love hiking, but this would be a tough one for me! Not even the chocolate pudding would have made me walk/swim 👀 this day. I really enjoyed your photos (I’m going to wash my sweaty palms now after reading your story)!
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I’m so sorry to have caused you stress. Please feel free to have a large glass of wine and a block of chocolate to calm down. 🙃
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