Today’s the day!
For two weeks we have been progressively edging our way westwards towards Mt Sonder and today, or more accurately this morning, we will see what all the fuss is about.
Apparently, the sunrises are spectacular. Apparently, it is a fitting end to an epic adventure.
Let’s see if that is the case…
Date: Saturday, 29 July 2023.
From: Redbank Gorge
To: Mt Sonder and return to Redbank Gorge
Section #: 12
Rating: Moderate-Difficult.
Official/Map Distance: 15.8km Planned Distance: 16km Actual Distance: 15.9km
Progress: 243/223km
Ascent: 878m Descent: 845m
Terrain: A steep, rock-strewn trail all the way up to Mt Sonder.
Started Walking: 0334 Finished: 0935 Time/Hrs: 5h1m
Weather: Very warm to start and chilly on top of the mountain.
Stayed At: Elkira Court Motel in Alice Springs with a long, long hot shower and LOTS of soap!
General Comments:
- When I woke up at 0229 – precisely 1 minute before my alarm was due to go off – it dawned on me that today could aptly be described as Type-2 fun, even before we had taken one step on the trail. Only the very dedicated or the very crazy go bushwalking in the middle of the night and I will let you decide which category we fall into!
- I think everyone must have been feeling the same nerves and anticipation, and bang on time we were all piled into the troopie for the short trip back to Redbank Gorge.
- I had the same feelings of disorientation I experienced the other day as we set out in the dark on the foothills leading to Mt Sonder. The path and conditions had been described to us and we were told what to expect, but again I had no sense of distance or progress. It was just step, rock, step, rock, step, rock.
- Up onto the first rise, we re-grouped and our fearless leader for the day (not me) was asked to slow down so the group could hang together more. It seems that carrying that two-way radio really does give you wings. Without fail, every single person who has carried the radio has shot off like a rocket! Performance pressure?
- The terrain levelled out slightly to a not-quite gentle incline and it was more step, rock, step, rock, step, rock. At one stage I looked up and could see a couple of headlamps shining way up above us. Yes, more crazy buggers like us making an early start.
- Soon we hit the start of the climb up to the Shark’s Fin. As the name indicates, it’s a short, sharp ridge that looks ‘fin-ish’ from a distance although it’s funny to be thinking about sharks 1,200km from the sea! After the steep descent down the other side, we stopped for a quick snack and drink break before the final push up to Mt Sonder itself.
- Our guide took the opportunity to give us a pep talk at our rest stop. He warned us that it can get very busy up on top of the mountain and that we should be quiet and respectful of the other hikers. We were also warned that there was little shelter/protection up there if nature calls and instantly, there was a mad scramble amongst our group with people dashing towards the bushes in every direction.
- About 300m from the top our guide asked us to wait and he took the lead. I’m glad he did as he took us to a good spot where we could all sit AND facing the right direction for the sunrise. I was so disoriented I would have been facing the completely wrong direction.
- We piled all our warm layers back on and huddled down as best we could behind the rocks to enjoy our breakfast in the dark. Our guide Cal, bless him, had carried a couple of thermos’ of hot water all the way up to the top of the mountain so we could enjoy a hot cuppa. What a gem!
- We waited and waited, and there was a slight lightening on the horizon. We waited and waited some more for the sky to shift from black to lightish grey only to see the thickest blanket of cloud cover and absolutely zero sunrise. Bugger!
- Yes, we were a bit disappointed to not be treated to the stunning sunrise so often featured in other hiker’s photographs, but it was still a good way to finish our epic Larapinta Trail. Just sitting there watching the World wake up and to be dazzled by 360° views one last time, was pretty special.
- With a feeling of having ‘ticked that box’, we turned and headed straight back down the trail in record breaking time. Not that I wanted the adventure to be over, I was just tired of rocks, rocks, and more rocks. My knees were in complete agreement.
- Back at camp there was time for one last revitalising swim in the Finke River before tucking into a MASSIVE breakfast/brunch of scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, grilled haloumi, hashbrowns, grilled mushrooms, baby spinach and coffee! Now that was definitely worth walking 16km for!
And that’s a wrap! It has been the most memorable and life-changing adventure, and today’s word really sums it up: UPLIFTING!
Thanks so much for following the adventure.
#travelinspo #LarapintaTrail #multidayhikes #adventurebeforedementia #longdistancewalks #australianbush #AliceSprings #WorldExpeditions #bushwalks #greatoutdoors #crosscountry #exploreonfoot #NorthernTerritory #CentralAustralia #discovernorthernterritory #WestMacDonnellRanges #OutbackAustralia #hikingadventures #epicadventures
Wow! That view IS spectacular (even with the thick cloud clover). It’s a mix of Type-2 fun and craziness! And you know what: Even I feel a bit ‘uplifted’ after you completed The Larapinta Trail – well done and thank you for all your amusing stories and wonderful photos!
Oh yes, and congratulations on Australia’s win over the Proteas yesterday … I’m rooting for you guys on Sunday 😁.
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Maybe I will have to return and do it all again, just to get another crack at that sunrise? Nah, too many other amazing adventures out there waiting for me! And I would rather watch paint dry than watch the cricket, but my husband will be glued to it! 🙂
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Two amazing women! Thanks so much for sharing your adventure, Mel and Heather. Here’s to the next…
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Hi Jo, Heather wasn’t my hiking buddy on this one, but she has booked to walk it next year. She will love it! Have a good weekend. Melx
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Sorry, hon 😗💙
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All good. I know we take some keeping track of! 😉
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Ah, isn’t it so often the case that when you aim for somewhere special to see a sunset or a sunrise it doesn’t perform! I admire your fortitude, scrambling up a mountain in the dark is so not my idea of fun! But I am happy to admire those views. Well done you! And that breakfast sounds delish. In fact all of your meals were pretty good. Thanks for taking me along on yet another mammoth walk Mel xx
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That’s my pleasure and thanks so much for strolling along with me. I hope it brought back some happy memories of places (maybe not up the top of bloody mountains) that you have visited in the past. Take care, Melx
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Oh, yes. We really did enjoy visiting this region and I loved the Landcruiser!
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🙂 – definitely the vehicle you need out there!
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What an adventure – you are both truly AMAZING 🙂
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We had a ball! Some tough days in there, but those memories fade quickly! 🙂
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I am feeling uplifted for you both, thanks for taking us with you. Now, you crazy woman I wander what you have next in store 😉
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That’s my absolute pleasure….now how does a 1,005km stroll sound?
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Maybe not in a park? Ok, where is this 1,005km stroll?
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WA. I will be posting about it soon…
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What a fun and crazy adventure🙂 Good memories though, and great scenery, thank you for sharing this with us!
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That’s my pleasure. Thanks for following along. Have a good day, Mel
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Well done! With a willingness to get up and start hiking in the wee dark hours, you are ready to climb all the way up Everest, not just to base camp. That breakfast sounds amazing. I adore halloumi. And mushrooms? The husband says I’m a Hobbit.
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Both First and Second breakfast are my favourite meals of the day! 😁
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Yay!! But too bad about the clouds, still you had a lovely view, it could have bee completely covered. Sounds like a great hike. Maggie
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I had some fabulous adventures this year and the Larapinta trail is up there with the best of them.
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Well Done! Always satisfying to complete a long walk 😀
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and you have completed some amazing long walks, so you know the feeling well!
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😁
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