Excitement levels were high a few years ago as we packed our bags for a hike to Everest Base Camp, only to have the Australian borders slammed shut a few short days before we were due to fly out because of a little thing called Covid19.
We thought this adventure had passed us by until a few encouraging words from an enthusiastic and highly-Himalayan-experienced guide on my Larapinta hike (back in July 2023), inspired us once more. The Husband was keen to join me on this epic adventure and we figured, if we were going hiking in the Himalayas, it would be better to do this sooner rather than later. Our bodies are not getting any younger! 😊
So, here are our new and improved plans…
New Plans:
- We are booked to walk with World Expeditions, rather than rebooking with TripaDeal. World Expeditions have an itinerary that is more appealing and they also provide a down jacket, down sleeping and duffel bag as part of their package. That means a few key things we don’t have to worry about or plan for.
- It will be a longer hike with a different itinerary, following a loop path to take in Cho La Pass rather than a simple up-and-back route retracing our footsteps.
- This time we will be joined by a couple of good friends. My Larapinta PiC (Partner in Crime) has enthusiastically (crazily?) lined up to walk with me again and I have finally convinced another long-term friend to join me on a walking adventure. He is checking his life insurance policies and Will as we speak! 😊
- Similar to last time, we will walk with daypacks only, utilising the wonderful support of hardy porters carrying the bulk of our gear.
Itinerary:
- As mentioned above, we have chosen a longer and different path this time to take in more gorgeous Himalayan scenery. We will also tack on a couple of days either end of the walk to explore Kathmandu and/or use those days as travel contingencies if foggy weather causes a delay in returning to Kathmandu.
- The tour itinerary is:
Day 1. Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2. Free Day in Kathmandu or Drive To Ramechap (Approx 5 Hours)
Day 3. Fly Lukla (2800m). Trek To Ghat (2600m). Walk Approx 2 Hours.
Day 4. To Monjo (2850m). Walk Approx 4-5 Hours.
Day 5. To Namche (3440m). Walk Approx 4-5 Hours.
Day 6. To Kyangjuma (3550m), Walk Approx 3-4 Hours
Day 7. To Phortse Tenga (3600m). Walk Approx 6 Hrs
Day 8. To Dole (4000m). Walk Approx 3 Hrs.
Day 9. To Machhermo (4410m), Walk Approx. 3 Hrs.
Day 10. To Gokyo (4759m). Walk Approx 5-6 Hrs
Day 11. Ascent Of Gokyo Ri (5483m). Walk Approx 4 Hrs
Day 12 To Thangnak (4800m). Walk Approx 4-5 Hrs
Day 13. Cross Cho La (5420m) To Dzongla (4843m). Walk Approx 8-9 Hrs
Day 14. To Lobuche (4930m). Walk Approx 3 Hrs
Day 15. To Gorak Shep (5288m) & Base Camp (5360m). Walk Approx 7-8 Hours
Day 16. Kala Pattar (5545m), & Trek Dingboche (4330m), Walk Approx. 7-8 Hours
Day 17. To Kyangjuma (3550m). Walk Approx 7 Hours
Day 18. To Ghat (3440m), Walk Approx. 7 Hours
Day 19. To Lukla (2800m). Walk Approx 5-6 Hours
Day 20. Fly To Kathmandu or Return Via Ramechap
Day 21. Trip Concludes in Kathmandu
…and collapse!
Timing:
- Last time we were going to walk in the Spring, just prior to the peak of hiking madness.
- Our new plan is walk in October – their Autumn. Apparently, there is still quite a bit of snow, the weather is clear and yet vastly reduced number of other hikers.
- This ‘warmer’ weather may impact the packing list and I am hoping to walk in shorts. Am I dreaming?
What I Will Do Differently:
- Training: I am the first to admit that I was probably under-trained and under-prepared way back in 2020. I am now committed to doing more and better training. Our Larapinta guide recommended starting serious training at least three months out and to focus on Lungs, Legs and Core. This is a handy summary to help keep me focussed on what I should be doing rather than what I feel like doing.
- Day Pack: I am going to carry a slightly larger day pack (30litre) to enable me to wear layers and peel them off as I warm up. Yes, I am an optimist.
- Food: I plan to go vegetarian while in Nepal and to replace protein, I will make a large batch of beef jerky. Internet research seems to say that this can be brought into Nepal. I love jerky and it was a favourite snack on my Bibbulmun Track adventure last year.
Packing:
- The emphasis will be on packing light as there are strict limitations on the weight of our bags for both the plane to Lukla and the amount the porters will carry. I am usually pretty good at packing light, but will have a renewed focus and I may have to break out the scales again to weigh my undies! 😊
- It has been strongly recommended that we pack a number of buffs (stretchy tubes of fabric) to protect our mouths and noses from the high dust levels that lead to Khumbu Cough. I also plan to pack water treatment/sterilisation tablets to save buying water and the inherent plastic bottles/wastage.
Things to Think About:
- Travel Insurance: I am yet to organise our travel insurance as I have been told that it is important to check the fine print closely. Many insurers will not provide emergency evacuation services above a certain altitude. Do you have recommendations?
- Slowing Down: I am the first to admit that I am an enthusiastic walker and tend to step it out when I am enjoying myself. I will need to learn to slow down and take it steady as altitude sickness is real on this path, and a slow ascent is key to avoiding it.
- New Camera?: I have been a bit disappointed with my point-and-shoot Canon camera. As I don’t want to miss even one gorgeous view, I need to explore replacing my camera or I need to learn how to use my current one much better!
- Packing List: As mentioned above, I will need to be very strategic with what I pack and carry. Apparently, many hikers donate their warm gear to the porters after the hike, so I need think about what will be of most use to both me during the hike and them afterwards.
So, that is my big adventure for 2024.
What have you got planned??
The Basics
What: A 21-day tour to Nepal including a 17-day trek to Everest Base Camp via Cho La Pass.
Where: After flying into Kathmandu, weather-permitting we then fly directly to Lukla and start our trek from there.
When: October 2024 and early Autumn in Nepal. Looking at the historical weather records it states that the temperature averages range from 12°C to 16°C during the day and down to -5°C overnight.
Why: Because it will be breathtaking, memorable and because both body and heart are still willing!
How: By foot, car, plane, bus, foot, bus, plane, foot, foot, foot, foot, foot, etc, plane, bus, plane, car, foot.
Who: Myself, The Husband, The PiC and a First Timer.
Related Posts: For a little Nepal taster, check out my post about my 2017 visit to Kathmandu.
Related Blogs: For some great insight into what it takes to trek to Everest Base Camp have a look at this fabulous blog – Monkeys Tale. Lots of handy information for would-be trekkers there.
Read About it: Prefer an armchair adventure to Everest? Then strap on your crampons, take a deep breath and open Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer. An astounding first-hand account of what it takes to climb Everest.
#travelinspo #everestbasecamp #bucketlist #adventurebeforedementia #Nepal #Kathmandu, #Lukla #EpicAdventure #Himalayas #longdistancewalks #TheGreat Outdoors #WorldExpeditions
Life...one big adventure 
That first timer who is traveler with you must be a good friend! Undoubtedly fit and gorgeous to match with your crowd!
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Oh, yes. He is a fine specimen of a man, in peak physical condition and he is an absolute fitness/health fanatic. He will also be far more stylish than us with all his fancy and fashionable gear. 🙂
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This is going to be one of those very memorable trips for many reasons – bring it on!
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You betcha!
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You’ll have a great time. I was in Nepal in 1982. Kala Patar was the highest point I reached. The views from KP are astonishing.
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I am very much prepared to be astonished on a daily basis. 😊🗻🗻
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Ahhhhh amazing! I can’t wait to follow along on your journey!
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Thanks. A little while to wait yet, but it is pretty exciting!
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VERY excited for you, and looking forward to enjoying another vicarious adventure! I’ll be following every step!
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You’re only small. Maybe I could arrange for a porter to carry you? x
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Hahaha, I wish!!! x
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I will carry you in my heart instead. 🙂
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😘
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Yay! Can’t wait to hike Everest with you from the safety and warmth of my living room (aka the third row of the roller coaster! 😉)
As for evacuations, COVAC Global came through for us when the husband had to be evacuated from England during the Omicron surge, and I know they provide evacuations from war-torn areas. Not sure about high-altitude evacs, but it’s a thought. (And of course, it’s in addition to regular travel insurance. 🙁)
One thing I always wonder in situations like these (and that I sometimes think about were I ever to hike, say, Machu Picchu with the husband and another couple): do you have a plan for what you will do if one of your climbing partners can’t make it all the way and has to turn back – for altitude or a whole host of other reasons?
Anyway, I’m all buckled in for the ride, Mel.
P.S. Love that quote – may print it for my classroom.
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when I went I talked to my work travel insurer. They covered evacuation worldwide.
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Yep, still researching that one. It is a minefield.
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I am so pleased you are along for the ride, even if it is from the third row! 🙂 Thanks for the tips on insurance. I will check it out. Thanks also for the conversation starter. It isn’t something we have discussed and it’s important to have that strategy clear from the get-go. Having to turn back is my one real worry about this hike as we just don’t know how the altitude will affect us.
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WOOT!!! Don’t know about shorts in those temperatures, but I shall grab my down jacket and get ready to join you on your adventure. As for the camera have you thought about just taking a phone with a good in-built camera?
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Thanks for joining me, Jude. You would love all the gorgeous scenery on this hike and your camera would meltdown! 🙂 Yes, have thought about upgrading my phone to take better photos, but I am so apathetic when it comes to technology! 🙂 I have 7.5months to get with the programme! 🙂
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Hi Mel
Sounds like a great adventure. Yes work on conditioning! Particularly the knees downhill. Those are long days back to Lukla.
I have been climbing in Nepal a couple of times. 21000 feet. Last one was Island Peak. Imja Tse. You can see on google maps it is quite close to Lhotse.
There were three in our party. Yaks. No porters. A ‘guide’ (compulsory) and the ox driver/cook. One the way down one of our party changed her mind and we split at Chukhung. It all worked out OK as she stayed in ‘hotel’ type accommodation and we took the yaks!
wrt camera a zoom lens is good to accommodate both panorama shots and zooming in.
Altitude can be a problem.when you start walking N from Lukla you will feel it. Typically the days are short wise. To keep to the daily altitude limit. What I did was once we had settled in the night sleeping spot I would look around for a side trail and climb as high as I could. Climb high sleep low.
You might want to do some reading of the history of climbing in Nepal. And watch the Netflix show on the recent earthquake.
Hope you have a great experience.
David
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Thanks for the tips, David. We do have a couple of ‘rest’ days on the way up with short up-and-back walks to adapt to the altitude. I have heard that altitude sickness is a bit of an unknown i.e. it can hit even the fittest hiker. Time will tell, I guess.
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yes it is unrelated to fitness. You may get milder symptoms though. Even in Lukla. On the day you fly in you will notice it. Especially as you start walking. Just stop and have a bit of a rest. Climb high sleep low works well. Every day
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Going slow is going to be a big challenge for me! 🙂 I will be just so excited.
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yes it is unrelated to fitness.
You may get milder symptoms though. Even in Lukla. On the day you fly in you will notice it. Especially as you start walking. Just stop and have a bit of a rest. Climb high sleep low works well. Every day
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Sounds like a great trip Mel and I’m sure you’ll be fine. Avoiding stomach problems and AMS will be the main goal. Oct/Nov is the right time to go. I did that trip in reverse a few years ago, you can have a read about it if you like on my site. I’ve also got that same pic from the top of Cho La Pass! My walking buddy Steve has been to Nepal nearly every year for the last thirty years so he knows a fair bit about Nepal if you have any questions.
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Brilliant! I should have known you would have already covered this territory! 🙂
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Sounds like you have a good support team going with you, Mel, to sort out any issues along the way. No trip in life is ever without them. You’ll ace it 😊 I’m guessing the first comment was the husband 😂
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I have the best team ever and NO the first comment was from the First Timer who is very confident! 🙂
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Oh my…! What a wonderful adventure ahead of you! I should have knew you wouldn’t trade your trail runners for a pair of pretty high heeled shoes 😂. We plan to camp a lot more this year – it sounded really exciting until I read your post this morning! I will be ready to walk with you again – in spirit.
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No, no, everyone has different types of excitement and your camping adventures are sure to be beautiful AND you always have the best food and wine! Something I fail miserably at! 🍷🍷🍽🥘🍲
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😊
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Sounds wonderful. 😊 Nepal is fabulous.
I’ve never bought bottled water with WE. We put our drink bottles in the basket on our way to breakfast and they got filled with boiled water. (Dinner time too so you get a hot water bottle to take to bed with you. Take a Nalgene bottle. 😁)
My first trip was late Oct into Nov. I don’t remember anyone wearing shorts. Maybe take some tights you can wear under them when it’s cold?
I took Diamox for altitude in Peru. I didn’t have any effects. But others didn’t react well to the medication so it’s a personal choice.
I can’t remember who I used for travel insurance in Peru when I went over the 3000m limit but I remember it was just a case of adding an extra to the policy. So check your usual insurer as they may have that option.
Looking forward to reading about your adventure.
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Thanks for all that intel. I am probably overthinking things, but that’s all part of the fun, isn’t it?
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Overprepare and then go with the flow. 😁
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Always… 🙂
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That’s great Mel! One of my favourite places in the world. We did Cho La in the opposite direction. Too bad you’re not doing the other 2 high passes but you’ll love Cho La, Gokyo and Kala Pattar. Don’t worry about being vegetarian on the trail, most of the locals are vegetarian. I’m sure you’ll have Dahl bat (Lentils and rice) almost every day. 😊 Maggie
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Luckily I love lentils! Whether I still love lentils after 20 days may be a completely different story! 🙂 Have a great weekend, Mel
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The meals on WE trips are amazing. They’ll even make a cake if anyone has a birthday. We found ourselves actually begging them to make Dahl bat because it’s so good (I actually made it for dinner last night with momos 😄) and they have such variety you don’t always get it.
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Something to look forward to. No doubt we will eat better and more than we did on the Bibb! 🙂
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Definitely no couscous. 😄
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Agreed! 🙂
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😊
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I don’t think Richard has eaten them since Everest 😊
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Too funny! I’m a bit like that with cous cous after last year’s hike in WA. Too much of a good thing! 🙂
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What an exciting adventure to have planned! Looking forward to reading all about your trip 🙂
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Many thanks. It will be here before we know it. 🙂
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SO exciting. I can’t wait to follow along on the adventure, as always you are inspiring and amazing 🙂
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I look forward to sharing this adventure with you. Not quite up to your 5-star standard, but it should be fun all the same.
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Just reading the comments is exciting, Mel! You know you’ll find me in the back row, or you could just leave me hanging around in Kathmandu. I do a great welcome party of one! I wish I could live up to that magnificent quote.
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We each find joy in different places, Jo and luckily we have great friends to share them with – either in person or virtually. Have a great day, Melx
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You’re vicariously helping me fulfil a big one on my life’s bucket list. Thank you. At 81 the Everests I still climb are of much lower elevations 😊
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I am more than happy to share the adventure with you! And as long as you are moving, who cares what the elevation is? 🙂
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😊
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Wow! Good luck
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🙂 We will need it. Thanks
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